If you like our site, please consider joining our club!
By joining you will help ensure that we can continue to provide this service
JOIN HERE!

1967 R69S restoration

User avatar
schrader7032
Posts: 9016
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Location: San Antonio, TX
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 29 times

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by schrader7032 »

Nice labor of love! Noticed a missing nut on the bolt that holds the front of the tank on...guess you're still in progress!

What has been the thinking on whether to paint the tire pump or not? Seems like it would look better if it were white. And as for the steering damper, I noticed that the red dot is at the 12 o'clock position...is that the position for zero damping? On my late model R69S, the red dot is at the 6 o'clock position and for me it's not damping the steering. Maybe the rod can be located in either position and so long as the damper hardware is correctly assembled, it should work fine.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

User avatar
skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by skychs »

Labor of love for sure. I'm not sure people really understand how long it takes to restore one of these beauties but I enjoy every minute of it.

Good catch on the tank bolt. I left it off until I finish with the fuel delivery system.

The jury is still out on the air pump. I also have to figure out what to do with the center stand. I had to buy a new stand because the original one was bent and they only came in black. I like the contrast of the black parts against the white but it will take some time to decide what to do.

In regards to the steering damper and red dot ... I went with a friction damper over the hydraulic damper because I want the option of hauling a sidecar. I guess I could re-thread the plate to move the red dot around to the 6 o'clock position.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

User avatar
schrader7032
Posts: 9016
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Location: San Antonio, TX
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 29 times

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by schrader7032 »

skychs wrote:
Sat Jan 28, 2023 2:40 pm
I guess I could re-thread the plate to move the red dot around to the 6 o'clock position.
Only if you need to get it into concours position!! I have no idea where it's supposed to be, so as long as you know when it's on and off, that's all that counts.

Not sure if this was discussed earlier...this is a long thread. But Jeff Dean has many nice pictures of colors of BMWs on his website:

https://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm

I see a lot of places where the center stand color matches the bike. I did see at least one black tire pump on a colored bike...there was a white one with all white, though.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

User avatar
skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by skychs »

schrader7032 wrote:
Sat Jan 28, 2023 3:08 pm
skychs wrote:
Sat Jan 28, 2023 2:40 pm
I guess I could re-thread the plate to move the red dot around to the 6 o'clock position.
Only if you need to get it into concours position!! I have no idea where it's supposed to be, so as long as you know when it's on and off, that's all that counts.

Not sure if this was discussed earlier...this is a long thread. But Jeff Dean has many nice pictures of colors of BMWs on his website:

https://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm

I see a lot of places where the center stand color matches the bike. I did see at least one black tire pump on a colored bike...there was a white one with all white, though.
I've seen the Jeff Dean thread. It was one of the reasons I wanted to try a different color. I love my black R60/2 but I'm really excited about the R69S in Dover White. I ride all of my bikes so keeping it in concours condition is almost impossible.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

User avatar
skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by skychs »

I was able to get in almost 90 miles yesterday on the R69S. She ran strong and felt very solid. No leaks, noises, wobbles or issues so far. The plan is to take one more ride then replace all the fluids.

The only issue I'm having is a very light drip from the left carbs air mixture screw. I've checked the float level and looked to see if the bowl is sticking but everything looks fine. Any thoughts.

It's also time to replace the lead acid battery that came with the bike. It looks silly and the last thing I want is acid dripping on the paint.

Once again, I couldn't do any of this without the help from local friends and this group. Thank you for your help!
Chuck
Attachments
IMG_0411.JPG
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

Daves79x
Posts: 680
Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:13 pm
Location: Knox, PA. USA
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by Daves79x »

If you're not familiar, you will soon be - if you do not turn off the gas a bit before stopping, and you sit the bike on the sidestand, they all drip out the mixture screw vent hole. It is how the bowl vents and not an indication of float level. Poor design. Bike looks fantastic, BTW!

Dave
Dave

User avatar
schrader7032
Posts: 9016
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Location: San Antonio, TX
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 29 times

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by schrader7032 »

I bought a 6v sealed battery from Vech quite a few years ago. I was having issues with fuzz building up on the terminals from the 3-cell lead-acid battery. It's not quite as tall, so I put a piece of 3/4" plywood under it and painted it black. The 6v battery has space terminals and I didn't want to cut the ring terminals off my existing harness. So, I bought a small project box at my electrical store and put a strip terminal inside the box. I also bought a trailer quick disconnect wiring harness maybe 2 feet long. I cut the wires in the middle and crimped spade terminals on two of the wires. On the other end I crimped ring terminals. These new ring terminals went inside the box and from the other direction, the two OEM ring terminals were installed. All of the ring terminals screwed to the strip terminal inside the box. All this lives on top of my battery which is fine with me. All that corrected the fuzz issues I was having with the old lead-acid battery.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

User avatar
skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by skychs »

Daves79x wrote:
Tue Jan 31, 2023 9:43 am
If you're not familiar, you will soon be - if you do not turn off the gas a bit before stopping, and you sit the bike on the sidestand, they all drip out the mixture screw vent hole. It is how the bowl vents and not an indication of float level. Poor design. Bike looks fantastic, BTW!
Dave
Thanks for the clarification. When it first started leaking it was on the center stand. I believe the float post was sticking in the bottom of the bowl causing it to flood and overflow. Once I corrected that issue the bike may have been on the side stand, causing it to drip from the mixture screw. Normally I turn the petcock off when I enter the neighborhood to keep it from leaking. I will try to turn it off a little sooner to see if that helps.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

User avatar
skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by skychs »

schrader7032 wrote:
Tue Jan 31, 2023 12:58 pm
I bought a 6v sealed battery from Vech quite a few years ago. I was having issues with fuzz building up on the terminals from the 3-cell lead-acid battery. It's not quite as tall, so I put a piece of 3/4" plywood under it and painted it black. The 6v battery has space terminals and I didn't want to cut the ring terminals off my existing harness. So, I bought a small project box at my electrical store and put a strip terminal inside the box. I also bought a trailer quick disconnect wiring harness maybe 2 feet long. I cut the wires in the middle and crimped spade terminals on two of the wires. On the other end I crimped ring terminals. These new ring terminals went inside the box and from the other direction, the two OEM ring terminals were installed. All of the ring terminals screwed to the strip terminal inside the box. All this lives on top of my battery which is fine with me. All that corrected the fuzz issues I was having with the old lead-acid battery.
Great information. A new lead acid battery came with the bike at purchase. I used it to get the bike running but have ordered a new AGM maintenance free battery from Mike at Vintage Beemer Parts. Once that arrives I will switch out the batteries and if possible hide the wires inside a case. Thanks for the recommendation.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

Seek
Posts: 164
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2022 11:39 am
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: 1967 R69S restoration

Post by Seek »

A leaking carb from the idle jet just means too high a float level. While you are riding you might not notice it but it still needs to be corrected because it influences the mixture too. Often just rubbing the float needle in its seat helps a good deal. Maybe with some fine grinding paste when it is a persistent case. The carb should be able to keep its contents inside, also when standing still on the center stand.

Post Reply