By joining you will help ensure that we can continue to provide this service
JOIN HERE!
1967 R69S restoration
-
- Posts: 149
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 9 times
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Hope that helps.
Chuck S
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Thanks for the advice. I have a call out to the painter to see what he has to say.sherman980 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 31, 2022 11:02 amBefore you go down the repaint route... Ask your painter for the remains of the paint he used for your bike along with some thinner and possibly activator (depends on the kind of paint he used). Thin it a bit and try applying a small dab to the cracked area. You want it to flow into the crack. It will wick under any paint that has been "loosened" and effectively "restick" it. It may also relieve some of the cured paint that is raised up (again depending on the paint type). Let it sit for a few days to get good and hard and see what you have. It may look good or it may need to be "dressed". If it needs to be dressed, a little 600 grit wet/dry sand paper used wet should lower any high spots and blend the area with the rest of the bucket. Follow with 1000 grit used wet, a little rubbing compound and wax. If, in the end, your still not happy, give it back to the painter, have him tape the washers you just installed and repaint the whole thing... Yes, a PIA, but these things happen...
Hope that helps.
-
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:49 pm
- Been thanked: 9 times
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
I like the documentation here but have a question about the process here.
Why would you attach all the finished sheet metal before you install the drive train front to rear?
I have done a few and follow a simple process of disassemble rear to front and reassemble front to rear, head light and wires comes after motor but before gas tank on these bikes. Heck I don't even stick the fly wheel, oil pan stuff, cylinders or timing cover on until the lower end is back in the frame and sitting fat and happy. I'm old and don't like to struggle with it. It seems to go a lot smoother and it's so much easier to stop and address fitment or function issues if you assemble front to back and fix along the way.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Thanks for your input.Tinkertimejeff wrote: ↑Mon Oct 31, 2022 8:47 pmKinda like popping the front fender brace rivets. Why do yo do that? Some headlight buckets have those dodads painted from the factory and some don't. Bead Blast the dodads and clear coat them, not to shiny and you don't have to re rivet anything. Sometimes you can over restore the bike and make it to perfect, once again it's your bike and your wallet so make the way you want it.
I like the documentation here but have a question about the process here.
Why would you attach all the finished sheet metal before you install the drive train front to rear?
I have done a few and follow a simple process of disassemble rear to front and reassemble front to rear, head light and wires comes after motor but before gas tank on these bikes. Heck I don't even stick the fly wheel, oil pan stuff, cylinders or timing cover on until the lower end is back in the frame and sitting fat and happy. I'm old and don't like to struggle with it. It seems to go a lot smoother and it's so much easier to stop and address fitment or function issues if you assemble front to back and fix along the way.
Our local vintage BMW mechanic recommended removing the round plates for painting. Easy to do ... drill out the rivets then reinstall after painting. Unfortunately ... this time he used a harder rivet which caused him to torque the tin and crack the paint. Simple mistake owned by the mechanic.
In regards to the drive train ... everything is temporarily in place. The final drive and swing arm are loosely attached to the drive shaft and frame. There are no gaskets or fluid in the bike at all. It's simply a mockup until Im ready to put it all together. Once the engine is reassembled and ready to install I'll drop the final drive and swing arm to get it all into place. To add the transmission I was planning on tilting the engine up and forward.
The fuel tank is on the bike because its the safest place in my garage to store the tank.
The fenders are on and secured. The rear fender is also wired from the tail light to the electrical block behind the battery.
So ... It's all done to keep the parts together and safe. It also give me a rolling chassis in case I need the lift for one of my other bikes.
Chuck
-
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Has thanked: 1 time
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Is anyone familiar with this coil? It's not the original but it would be nice to know. TIA
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9040
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 34 times
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
- jwonder
- Posts: 784
- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 7:50 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Has thanked: 3 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
- Contact:
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Vice President, Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners
2022 BMW Friend Of the Marque
Long Island, New York
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Thanks guys. A new coil has been ordered. Salis is out of stock but I found one locally.