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Plunger driveshaft

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mcsherry1328
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Plunger driveshaft

Post by mcsherry1328 »

Looking for tool to remove and install plunger driveshaft hub from shaft. New, used, or instructions to build one. Thanks, Michael

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vechorik1373
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Re: Plunger driveshaft

Post by vechorik1373 »

Michael

The tools are available, but they are frighteningly expensive. And this is not as easy as you might think it is.
The split block for flange removal is obviously home made out of aluminum. The driveshaft passes through the hole, and the drive flange rests on the face of the split block. The black pressing arbor is a factory tool and is available new. You MUST make or buy that arbor. Do NOT attempt to press directly on the exposed end of the driveshaft, you will mushroom the end and bend it. The arbor inserts into the end of the driveshaft, and the rounded end seats in the bottom of the hole. The shoulder seats on the end of the driveshaft. It is designed to simultaneously press no only in the bottom of the hole, but on the end of the shaft also.
It takes an enormous amount of pressure to push the flange off. Before you press the flange off, be sure an measure the length of the driveshaft that is coming through the driveshaft, and write that measurement down, so when you press the flange back on, you will get it back in the correct position.
remove.jpg
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To reinstall the flange, you cannot stand the drive shaft up vertically and simply press the flange back on, you will BEND the driveshaft and ruin it. It MUST be held in this factory press tool. the two split pieces have an beveled entrance, and go on the driveshaft, just past the area that the flange mounts on. They drop into the circular plate, and that rests on the bed of the press. After the drive flange is place on the end of the driveshaft, the tubular piece is used on the face of the flange to press the flange down on the shaft.
And some more hints, if you are doing this to get the shaft re-chromed. BEFORE you attempt to press the flange on the re-chromed shaft, the shaft will have to be put in a lathe and using a tool bit, cut a shallow groove through the chrome exactly where the flange will stop. The chrome will shatter and break off, when the flange is forced down the shaft. The idea is to give the chrome a place to break off, and stop. When I had Bench Mark Works, I removed flanges many times, and if the customer needed to have the shaft re-chromed, you must cut through the new chrome plating to get a clean break of the plating exactly where the flange stops.
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install.jpg
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Vech
Technical Adviser, Former owner, Bench Mark Works
662 312 2838 cell 9 am to 4pm CST PLEASE!

mcsherry1328
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Re: Plunger driveshaft

Post by mcsherry1328 »

Vech, Thanks so much for your invaluable technical direction. So lucky to have an expert reply with sound advice. I really appreciate your help, Michael

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Re: Plunger driveshaft

Post by 808Airhead »

There are new reproduction driveshafts available for purchase as well. I bought one recently and it is of very nice quality.
Thomas M.
R69S - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3 - R69

mcsherry1328
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Re: Plunger driveshaft

Post by mcsherry1328 »

Thomas, Thanks for the reply. Who sells them ?

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Re: Plunger driveshaft

Post by sherman980 »

Sorry to be a bit late to this thread, but been off traveling for the holiday. Have rebuilt more than a few of the plunger driveshafts over the years. Never had access to the factory tools so just made my own in combination with a 20 ton shop press (pretty standard shop size). While my "process" is very similar to Vech's, a couple of notes...

The clamping flanges, etc. I made were all made from scrap aluminum but they were quite thick (about 2" if I recall). If you are familiar with clamping fixtures, they are relatively easy to make. (If you don't have a clue what I'm talking about, you probably should farm this one out - no offense intended - just know your limitations.) The aluminum is much softer than chrome and won't mar or scratch the new finish after the shaft and flange are replated and you use them to put things back together. Unfortunately, I loaned my tools to someone a few years ago and they never came back or I'd post pics.

It is important to measure the distance the flange is pressed on to the shaft BEFORE you remove it. I use that measurement to mark the shaft so it is obvious what portion the flange covers. When I take the shaft to the plater, I make sure the plater knows to: a) NOT polish that portion of the shaft!; and b) either tape or wax the end of the shaft to the marked point so that it doesn't get any plating on it. While the chrome/nickel will flake off when the flange is pressed on, the copper underneath both will not and makes the interference fit even tighter than it was originally and reinstallation VERY difficult. I also ask the plater to NOT plate the shaft from the end of the groove for the rubber dust cover back. It is easy enough for them to wax this area so none of the bearing areas are exposed to plating. An experienced plater will know well how to do this, but, unfortunately, that is how they (and I - LOL!) became "experienced".

When I press the flange back on to the shaft, I use a drop or two of red Locktite on the shaft. It tends to act as "lubricant" as the flange goes on. Given the interference fit, I'm not sure how much actually ends up between the shaft and the flange interface, but it's never given me a problem and I've never had a rebuilt shaft fail. Last, I usually put a drop or two of clear paint around where the flange meets the new chrome plating on the shaft. For the same reasons that Vech pointed out above, you don't want to press the flange into the newly chromed portion of the shaft as it will crack the new plating. Leaving the flange a few thousandths from this interface prevents that, but leaves a small space for rust/corrosion to develop over time and the clear paint helps prevent that.

Hope that helps.
Thanks.
Chuck S

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