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Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
- Discogodfather
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:45 am
Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
I contemplated heliarcing both or just putting the threaded insert on the other side to even them out, but I got a little tired of the constant issues and knew I would need to do another valve seat regrind if I TIG'd the holes up and tapped them. I really hate these butterheads, I always wondered why my bike didn't get the LK heads. Maybe they were replaced long ago before I got her.
I have been using a few repro pieces from Uli's Motorrad in Frankfurt for many years. Valve covers and a deep oil pan. The quality of the aluminum always seemed excellent to me. I can tell from just pushing a nail into practically any point on the metal that it is much harder than the original. The machining seems impeccable to me, tolerances are very tight.
So I decided to bite the bullet and get a set of repro heads. These are available from Bobs for only $550, but they only had one in stock and had to special order the other side. I didn't want to wait (with the lockdowns in Germany my cousins there are telling me its slowing everything down) so I ordered from vintagebmwparts (spike buck on ebay) for $1500 for a set shipped. Pricey, but it came to me in 2 days. 1 year warranty (I know, not much to tell in 1 year).
I called Uli's and spoke to Uli in Frankfurt, very nice guy. I wanted to know where these were made, he would not say. I kept asking "are these made in Germany?" and he kept saying "These are made for Uli's Mottorad exclusively". I asked if they were made in Europe and where and he would not say.
The quality on the heads is up to par with other things I have seen from Uli's. Tight machining, seems like damn good metal. No porosity in the aluminum anywhere I can see, even in webbings and around edges. The valves seem more like stock valves than any of the aftermarket "black" valves I have seen that sell for so much money. Can't tell much about the springs or the guides, they look good. Seats are ground without any apparent flaws, I regrind my own seats so I can tell this is professionally done and isn't some kind of hacked hand lapping.
They head design itself is kind of interesting. It's definitely not patterned off the LK design. The fins aren't as thick as a butterhead but they are not as thin as an LK. Also, the bottom of the cylinder is not "tubed" and is filled in, like the butterheads. It uses a short reach plug, and of course the threads are tapped directly into the aluminum (no insert at all, like the LK's). So I am liking this- a always thought the LK's were a little too thin and had broken fin potential. Seems like a good mix of designs.
Exhaust threads are nice and stout, no hard edges. Studs are all new with zinc plating, came with the valve cover stud as well. No markings or clues anywhere these are made, but I suspect either Germany, Czech Republic, or Poland if its Europe. I doubt these are South Korean, just a feeling though. I have had some experience with South Korean Harley head copies and they just don't stack up to this tolerance.
I used my special vacuum tester to test the seats. My standard is to apply vacuum to the combustion chamber side, with only the valve spring pressure holding the valves closed. I just think this method will scrutinize any setup considering it's not pulling the valve closed but pulling it open. I read 26 inches on one and 27.5 on the other, all good and within my spec for this. The old heads I have, which were reground and hand lapped by me, pull around the same.
Popped everything on and then ran a cold compression test. I reused my Nural pistons because they were solidly in spec, just deglazed and new rings. 120 psi on both cylinders. Pillow blocks went right in without any shimming or adjustment, all good. Torqued then and waited 24 hours and torques again, they didn't budge at all.
So, so far so good. I'll be putting around with these and seeing what's up. Hopefully I can get some serious mileage on them to tell if things are good. So far impressed.
San Francisco, CA
- Discogodfather
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
San Francisco, CA
- jwonder
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
I also dig the cat (I mean your helper) who was saying your ring end-gap was 0.000001 off. You know cats know those things!!
Thanks again for the wonderful writeup and pictures!!
Vice President, Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners
2022 BMW Friend Of the Marque
Long Island, New York
- Discogodfather
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:45 am
Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
Ran down the block on a first run and she died after some noise. Pushed her a 1/4 mile back to the garage and took off the cover again and surprise, the exhaust valve is completely stuck open. Looks like a bad clearance between valve and guide. Tried tapping the valve stem a bit to see if it would free up, no luck. The springs don't seem bound but I won't know until I take the head off.
Frustrating, but that's why there is a 1 year warranty hopefully. Will keep everyone informed how it goes. Hopefully the valve didn't get bent or worse, there is damage to the top of the piston.
San Francisco, CA
- Discogodfather
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
Any time anything frustrating happens I try and look on the bright side: it's a learning experience about the geometry of the r60/2 head design. It's not much of an interference engine, which is a good thing. The valve was stuck over halfway open and it really didn't tear anything about. Not too sure about fully compressed though, that might start blowing things up.
I have actually never seen or heard of a stuck valve in my experience of 25 years wrenching and restoring and building things. It's pretty rare, especially on a brand new head.
San Francisco, CA
- Discogodfather
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
I thought about how a head sitting for a long time that didn't have much assembly lube on there might seize, but it would be odd that it didn't seize right away and would wait until after an oil bath to stick. All I can really think of is the guide is just too tight. Spring binding would cause some issues but the valve would still close, and I did move the springs around a bit with the head of a screwdriver and they seemed to be floating around correctly.
Probably be a week until the serviced head come back, so stay tuned.
San Francisco, CA
- R60 Sweden
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
BMW R60 1959
- Discogodfather
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
Who knows, but the head is back and ready to get put on the bike for another round. Everything looks great and it was cleaned up at no charge.
Interesting to note that Mike told me on the phone that he read the warranty again and it does NOT cover valve issues or the machine work to the valves and anything to do with the springs, retainers, etc. He said the warranty covers cracking of the valve seats and any cracks to the spark plug hole. That's it. He covered the cost of the work and the return postage to me none the less.
I'll see if I can try and fit this up and get going as soon as possible and keep the story going......
San Francisco, CA
Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
Icarus
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Re: Uli's Motorrad New Production Cylinder Head Review
Though these machines are now used to go to Starbucks once a month and not cross-country, the 1/2" reach threads in aluminum would have been highly problematic back in the day.
Honing the guide 'straight' is the process to use versus reaming a hole that is already to 'size' for clearance with the valve stem. Was the valve face to valve seat concentricity examined?
Ensure the valve was checked for valve face concentricity and the stem is/was not bent. Like with one of these: https://goodson.com/collections/valve-r ... city-gauge Sticking valve stem issues have been around for many decades.... One cause....carbon. I'm curious what valves are used in these heads. Elco? Swiss InterValves? Neither of those two brands?
The valve seats do not crack. The cylinder head seat counter bores are what have, or can have, radial cracks.
My recommendation is to use a new head gasket.
What is 'tons of oil in the rocker covers'? Sufficient oil does not equate to not overheating. There are items like timing and fuel delivery (as in lack of or too much) that can wreak havoc on the head, especially on the exhaust side.
To a certain extent, the head is equal to all other parts to the cylinder head assembly. Thus, the warranty should be for the assembly and not just the casting.
Thinking positive for you so the story has you back up and running, putting miles on that machine.