Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners

Heh Everyone

Just having a bit of a struggle removing the tapered pin from the driveshaft/pinuon shaft joint.

All has gone smoothly till now but this tapered pin just doesnt wanna budge.

Anyone hit this point and got past it?

Reluctant to go too hard with the hammer but if it will not budge, is there a back door way via the final drive...

Any advice welcomed gratefully :):)

John

which bike, John
Klaus

Doh! Sorry Klaus

R51/3

Johnwrightphoto wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 02, 2020 3:07 pm

Heh Everyone

Just having a bit of a struggle removing the tapered pin from the driveshaft/pinuon shaft joint.

All has gone smoothly till now but this tapered pin just doesnt wanna budge.

Anyone hit this point and got past it?

Reluctant to go too hard with the hammer but if it will not budge, is there a back door way via the final drive...

Any advice welcomed gratefully :):)

John

I think the pins go in or out in one direction. Can you apply heat or stick all the part in the fridge for a day before using excess violence?

John

These pins can be a bummer.
That's what I do, when I take off the drive shaft.
I built myself a little tool: I drilled a hole 8-9mm diameter and maybe an inch deep into a little square wood block. Turn the drive shaft, so that the threaded end of the pin looks upwards. Then place the little block with the whole facing up under the drive shaft right where the boss is where the pin will come out. Use a litte jack and bring it up so that the drive shaft feels "pressure" (you'll see that once the rear drive case starts to lift). Now you can use a little hammer and help the pin to get out (protect the threads) it will move into the hole of the wood block. Once the pin moved a little, you can remove the jack and the woodblock and the pin will go out easily.

The reason why I use this little wood block with the hole and the jack? I don't want to hammer on the pin without supporting the shaft drive because it might damage the bearings (I might be overly cautious here but better safe than sorry). Worked like a charm for me for years.
I use the same methode to install the pin.

The description might be a bit difficult to understand (english is not my mother tongue), but if you want to go down that route, ask.

good luck
Klaus

Klaus!

Gosh thank you for sharing. This depth of knowledge is why i joined and support this forum!

I admire the ingenuity of your method

I understand everything youve said but while this will certainly support the existing driveshaft, im not sure it will help me free the pin, but ill try it!

Ive decided to acquire a heavy hamner and a brass drift punch before i hit the thing any more

Something tells me im going to be ordering a replacement tapered pin this time next week :):)

Oh and your english is superb!

John

thanks for the flowers

You don't need a heavy hammer ... but a drift punch is definitely a good idea. For the start you can leave the crown nut 3-4 turns on the pin (NOT LESS). This way you protect the threads.
A new pin might be also a good idea but probably not necessary. Check yours first once its out.

Once you put it back in, check first with this forum ... its correct only one way although it seems that there are a couple of options ... there ain't! And it got to be shimmed the right way. Maybe that's the reason why it doesn't want to come out in the first place.

Good luck
Klaus

Oh Klaus did you really need to say the shim word!?

Ok im back on it this evening.

Stay tooned

@beemer100

ok so who knew the tapered pin i managed to remove was a stroll in the park compared to pulling the driveshaft out!?

Ah jeez this is becoming one of those “why did i start this jobs”

Klaus youre methodology mixed with the drift punch/heat/penetrating oil got the little guy out. Its all marked up for going back in

Seriously though, the Drive shaft is part way out and stiff as a...stiff and stuck thing.

Guys if youve been HERE is there a method or is it just hit the thing with a hammer?

Frustrated of Essex

no hammer, please John.

Now, my assumption was that you already disconnected the drive shaft from the transmission. Is this correct?

If not, put the pin back in (not all the way, just to reconnect the drive shaft with the pinion gear). Then take out the rear wheel. You might also need to loosen the lower and front bolt which hold the rear fender (so that you can move the fender a weebit to the left ... away from you). If that is done, you can turn counterclockwise the rear drive and you will see the Hardy disk getting off (either the drive shaft or the tranny pully). Now you can take the pin out again and the pull the drive shaft off the pinion gear.

Let me know if that works for you

Klaus