Guidance

[schrader7032]

The wire at the back of the transmission is part of the neutral switch. Yes, you'll just need to turn the screw out a little bit and the wire will pull out of the bottom.

Maybe you can take a picture of the swingarm nut area? Typically, you'll need a thin walled socket to fit in there to get to the nuts. IIRC it takes a 27mm or a 1-1/16 inch socket. Grinding off the leading edge to reduce the chamfer on the inside helps as allows more bite on the nut.

If you still have the driveshaft hooked up along with the rear brakes, the easiest thing to do is to step on the brake and put a 12mm wrench on the bolts on the transmission output flange and loosen each one. Getting those off will let you take out the two motor mount lower bolts and also the top of the engine bolt.

[wa1nca]

no need to remove rear swing arm
see post below

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16190&p=36339#p36339

Tommy

[Gossamer]

ok thanks for the info.

My plan is to remove the whole drivetrain since you can tell from the pics she sat for a LONG time(30+ years) so i'm going to replace/rebuild everything more for my own safety since I plan to make this into a rider.

Just trying to make as little extra work for myself as possible since there's obviously so much I need to do.

Still need to lookup how to remove the timing retard cable from the magneto area.

Also now that I'm thinking about it, what's the best way to get the carb cables out? Pull the carbs then remove that way? It looks like the tops can screw off where they enter into the carb(not the tension adjustment but the actual entry area into the carb) but I didn't want to force anything. or should I just cut the cables and worry about them when I have it on the bench? They will get replaced anyhow.

[schrader7032]

Yes, the carb tops screw off and the top comes up and out with the slide attached to it. You then grab the throttle wire and push towards the carb while moving the small metal of the cable out of it's hole so that it can be slide through the slide. It will be evident once you get the top off.

[Gossamer]

Thank you, i don't want to screw up the carbs at all, those puppies are pricey

[Captonzap]

And you also don't want to cut the carb cables, since you may end up having to have them replicated and they will be used used as the pattern.

[Gossamer]

ok motor and trans are out.

Left the cables on since I couldn't get the carb tops off and didn't want to screw them up.

Also for the life of me I couldn't get the timing retard to let go so took that off the bar side.

Now my big question is I need to transport the motor for 150 mile trip. I assume I don't want it riding the oil pan for that long. So how do I properly support the motor for the trip?

Only issue I found so far is a crack in the right side exhaust port.

[schrader7032]

Here's a picture of what I built to transport my R69S engine from Texas to Mississippi to Vech's. It's just a simple box of 2x4s with cutouts where the engine mounts go. I might have had a piece of plywood along the bottom for protection as well as to stiffen up the 2x4 frame. I simply put in the passenger seat in my car and put the seat belt around it.

As for the crack, at first I thought it might have been saw-cut, but I guess it really is cracked. Looks like the crack has migrated into the head as well. That might be difficult to repair. It will be interesting to see what is recommended.

[Jim D 5112]

I would recommend that you purchase a squirt can or spray can of Kroil to spray on things before you try to loosen them up. It will make things come apart easier and save things that are expensive and hard to replace. You can find it on eBay or just Google it to purchase.

[Gossamer]

I've got a one gallon container of Kroil.

While the stuff is a miracle, some of these 60 year old bolts are just going to give way.

Anyhow, not sure what happened with the right side port but the heads are going to be sent for rework.

A very kind person and obvious enthusiast named Trig is guiding me.

My hope is to have her street worthy by this time next year. Of course time and money will be the issue, more time than money at this moment.

But once i know the engine/transmission are healthy/worth rebuilding etc. then I'll begin to focus on the chassis.