MZB Rotor Puller

[schrader7032]

He found the puller from the original kit. The cover is off, so that's a good sign.

[wa1nca]

The mounting bolt was too long to secure the rotor
Joel as he became aware of this shorted the bolt and added the puller for the rotor when he shipped the original MZB kits

At this time my initial instuctions stated the switches for the advance module should be 2 up and 2 down for the proper advance curve
The new updated one I just posted from on the web states that all switches should be off to give a 8 degree BTC at low rpm's and not to retard more that 38 degree over 3000 rpm's

Tommy

[schrader7032]

I ended up using the regular puller to pull off the other cover on the nose of the camshaft. I realized that it engaged the threads of the cover and bottomed out inside the camshaft. A couple of turns on the puller bolt, and the cover popped off.

Everything went well taking the engine out of the frame...it's currently in a box to be shipped off to Vech. We had a couple of issues with studs that pulled out of the engine case. One of them was a stud that holds the bracket down for the top engine mount...the acorn nut was just too corroded in place...the stud came out instead. Also, one of the studs that hold the transmission in place. The nut wouldn't release, so in turning the nut, the stud walked out. Vech says no problem...he'll take of things on his end.

I had wanted to remove the clutch pack, but wasn't having much luck freeing up any of the slotted screws holding the pressure plate down. I had ideas, but after talking to Vech, he said just leave it in place and he'll look at the clutch on his end. I don't think there are many miles on the clutch so maybe he'll be OK.

The pistons had 72.95 stamped in the top, so that's pretty clear the engine is 2nd over. The pistons have a date code in the mold...it was 12 89 so the work that was done before this owner was sometime after that. Again, I don't think there are many miles on this rebuild...the current owner has had the bike sitting idle for the last 10 years. So there can't be many miles on it.

[wa1nca]

They are a PITA to remove even with a impact driver and also cant torque them when reinstalling
I found these and ordered them from Salis
Clutch screw M8 x 1 x 20 countersunk socket head
About $1.40 each but well worth the price
Easy off and can torque when installing
Pic below
Tommy

The clutch screws I ordered from Salis didnt fit the head is to fat
I ordered 6 from
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-ALLEN- ... Swls5Y8LFX
2nd pic

Vech also lists same part # 2121 0070 155 A
Tommy

[wa1nca]

Received allen head clutch screws from Klassic Cycle
They worked great

I emailed Salis and they gave me credit for their allen head clutch screws
They are used on /5/6 but will work if you mill the cross supports inside the transmission a little
They updated their web site to indicate that this needs to be done if used on r50-r69

https://bmwclassicmotorcycles.com/index ... -1981.html

Tommy

[schrader7032]

The owner's engine with clutch attached is at Vech's. I wonder what Vech will do.