By joining you will help ensure that we can continue to provide this service
JOIN HERE!
First engine inspection/rebuild on an R69S
I have that tool, got from
I have 2 used pistons from my 69 they have about 12,000 miles ( speedo) said the 80 yr old man I bought bike from. I had to bore my cylinders once over. make offer.
You need to just rebuild your engine. Buy: hot plate, hand torch, special tools all in one ($200). Pull your engine and put on your bench or build one.
just my .5 worth.
92 R100RT/69 R69S
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter
83 Honda V65 Magna, fastest production bike in1983
2015 Can Am Spider SE6 1,688 miles
2018 Moto Guzzi V711 Special
When you pull the cam, heat
92 R100RT/69 R69S
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter
83 Honda V65 Magna, fastest production bike in1983
2015 Can Am Spider SE6 1,688 miles
2018 Moto Guzzi V711 Special
Thanks for all the help!
Twocams, I appreciate your info/offers as well...guess I should have waited a couple days before ordering /:) Ah well, at least I'll have one of these tools on hand in case I need to remove it again for some reason. And your advice is well taken - I do plan to do as much as I can, partly out of budgetary constraints and also because of my natural curiosity/impulse to work things out with my own two hands. I"ll consider your pistons, too. And no, I have not gotten to pulling the cam yet, but to your point I understand it'll require some heat...
-
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Has thanked: 1 time
Heat
Hello everyone,I had to take
I had to take a brief hiatus from this project due to family obligations, but I'm back to wrenching now...
The motor is finally out of the frame and on the bench. I put together a fairly solid engine stand using some decent lumber I had lying around, so the motor is now secure and approachable from all sides (as well as the top and bottom). I'm waiting on another item to tackle the flywheel, so in the interim I decided to try removing the oil pan. It is a cast unit (not sheet metal) and was previously installed without a gasket and was instead glued in place with some kind of light-colored sealant. It doesn't appear to be silicone-based. I tried soaking what I could access with gasket remover (Permatex), used wooden chisels, a brass drift, plastic blades and a dead-blow hammer to pry/knock it free with no luck.
Eventually, I decided I would have to attempt surgically inserting a razor blade and running it along the sealing surface. After much careful tapping with a hammer and turning the motor from front to back a few times, the oil pan finally came off after a couple hours. I think when it comes to putting it back on during reassembly I'll use a proper gasket in conjunction with sealer...this approach strikes me as less liable to damage the mating surfaces in the future.
- Attachments
-
- 2-033_oil_pan_front.jpg (340.4 KiB) Viewed 2143 times
-
- 2-032_oil_pan_side.jpg (199.03 KiB) Viewed 2143 times
Thanks for this suggestion,
Much appreciated!
I don't know why people often
One thing , though, often overlooked ... the threaded holes where these M6 bolts go in, go all the way into the engine case. So, if this is not taking properly care of, then the sealing surface of the pan might not leak, but the bolts will.
my 2 cents
Klaus