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First engine inspection/rebuild on an R69S

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Twocams
Posts: 781
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:42 pm

I have that tool, got from

Post by Twocams »

I have that tool, got from Joel when I bought my 12V system from him. Wont sell to you but if you want to use, let me know.
I have 2 used pistons from my 69 they have about 12,000 miles ( speedo) said the 80 yr old man I bought bike from. I had to bore my cylinders once over. make offer.

You need to just rebuild your engine. Buy: hot plate, hand torch, special tools all in one ($200). Pull your engine and put on your bench or build one.
just my .5 worth.
Twocams
92 R100RT/69 R69S
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter
83 Honda V65 Magna, fastest production bike in1983
2015 Can Am Spider SE6 1,688 miles
2018 Moto Guzzi V711 Special

User avatar
Twocams
Posts: 781
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:42 pm

When you pull the cam, heat

Post by Twocams »

When you pull the cam, heat up the back of the case some so the bearing maybe will come out with the cam. Or you will have to buy a "blind hole puller" like I did. Or am I to late?
Twocams
92 R100RT/69 R69S
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter
83 Honda V65 Magna, fastest production bike in1983
2015 Can Am Spider SE6 1,688 miles
2018 Moto Guzzi V711 Special

jtaylor
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:04 pm

Thanks for all the help!

Post by jtaylor »

Thanks to all for their advice and information thus far. Tommy and James - I didn't hear anything from Joel, but I did place an order through VAPE...looks like it is supposed to be here shortly, so thanks to both of you for your help.

Twocams, I appreciate your info/offers as well...guess I should have waited a couple days before ordering /:) Ah well, at least I'll have one of these tools on hand in case I need to remove it again for some reason. And your advice is well taken - I do plan to do as much as I can, partly out of budgetary constraints and also because of my natural curiosity/impulse to work things out with my own two hands. I"ll consider your pistons, too. And no, I have not gotten to pulling the cam yet, but to your point I understand it'll require some heat...
Jeff

Jim D 5112
Posts: 200
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Has thanked: 1 time

Heat

Post by Jim D 5112 »

Try some heat to soften the sealer so it may become more pliable. A good heat gun or a propane torch.

jtaylor
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:04 pm

Hello everyone,I had to take

Post by jtaylor »

Hello everyone,

I had to take a brief hiatus from this project due to family obligations, but I'm back to wrenching now...

The motor is finally out of the frame and on the bench. I put together a fairly solid engine stand using some decent lumber I had lying around, so the motor is now secure and approachable from all sides (as well as the top and bottom). I'm waiting on another item to tackle the flywheel, so in the interim I decided to try removing the oil pan. It is a cast unit (not sheet metal) and was previously installed without a gasket and was instead glued in place with some kind of light-colored sealant. It doesn't appear to be silicone-based. I tried soaking what I could access with gasket remover (Permatex), used wooden chisels, a brass drift, plastic blades and a dead-blow hammer to pry/knock it free with no luck.

Eventually, I decided I would have to attempt surgically inserting a razor blade and running it along the sealing surface. After much careful tapping with a hammer and turning the motor from front to back a few times, the oil pan finally came off after a couple hours. I think when it comes to putting it back on during reassembly I'll use a proper gasket in conjunction with sealer...this approach strikes me as less liable to damage the mating surfaces in the future.
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Jeff

jtaylor
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:04 pm

Thanks for this suggestion,

Post by jtaylor »

Thanks for this suggestion, Jim...I'll admit that did not come to mind, and I bet I'll have other opportunities to use this advice later on, too.

Much appreciated!
Jeff

User avatar
Beemer100
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 15, 2018 5:32 pm

I don't know why people often

Post by Beemer100 »

I don't know why people often "glue" the pan to the engine case in order to avoid leaking. The usual gasket (maybe supported by some sealant .. but not much) seals just fine if you don't overtorque the little bolts ...
One thing , though, often overlooked ... the threaded holes where these M6 bolts go in, go all the way into the engine case. So, if this is not taking properly care of, then the sealing surface of the pan might not leak, but the bolts will.

my 2 cents
Klaus

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