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Right cylinder running rich

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davidmcctan
Posts: 35
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm

Right cylinder running rich

Post by davidmcctan »

Hi guys,
Happy holidays to everybody..
I took apart the engine which was on my r60 / 2 which was running perfectly to do a Slinger change out and now my right cylinder is running a Rich. Went through the motions from plugs, carbs, compression, valve timing and all seems good. I swear it fells like i left a rag in the intake manifold, but I've gone through it and can't find anything. One thing i did change were the mufflers . I will try and put back the old one on the right side , but grasping at straws at this point. Any input appreciated

Ps..on a heat gun, the right side runs 75 degrees cooler than the left after a while, like 5 minutes. Plug is wet on idle

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Beemer100
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 15, 2018 5:32 pm

David ... 75 degrees

Post by Beemer100 »

David ... 75 degrees difference .. is this in Fahrenheit or in Celsius? If it was Celsius I would say the right cylinder is not running at all.
So I assume it's in Fahrenheit.
You say you went through the obvious: Valves, compression, timing and carbs. Since it apparently only ran at idle I would check the carbs again. Mainly the float and the idle circuit. Then I would make sure the carbs are in sync. Definitely change the wet plug.


MikeL46
Posts: 151
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2016 1:58 pm

I have to agree. Sounds like

Post by MikeL46 »

I have to agree. Sounds like the float is sticking and flooding the cylinder.

Mike
67 R50/2 w/R100 engine/trans and Ural Sidecar
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar

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davidmcctan
Posts: 35
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm

Temp was in F I did run it

Post by davidmcctan »

Temp was in F
I did run it around for 30 minutes and the plug was darkened ( Fuel Foul)

Question: if the bowl sticks, wouldn't the fuel start coming out of the overflow...

Also...if the float sticks , doesn't the engine still run normal (not rich), it just has fuel spilling out of the carb?

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davidmcctan
Posts: 35
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm

What if i exchange the Carb

Post by davidmcctan »

What if i exchange the Carb top cover & the float between the left and right..that should confirm sticking carb or bad needle seat

Still confused as to a bad float making it run rich...
Unless it dumps the excess fuel back into the carb, that would affect it...

Where is the overflow in a Bing?

ahistand
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:04 pm

Overflow

Post by ahistand »

There is no overflow per-se on the Bings to the outside of the carb. When the fuel level rises too high it does and can go several places like out the air inlet for the main and idle jet circuit and then yes into the main air intake. But usually it dribbles pretty good out of the idle mixture screw threaded hole since this isn’t exactly a perfectly sealed area to the exterior of the carb.
It should be easy enough to check if you have a float and/or needle that isn’t seating properly without switching tops or floats. Just turn the fuel petcock to the on position with the engine not running. Then pull both tops off and compare the fuel levels. I don’t have the exact measurement on me but the fuel level should appear surprisingly low, like lower than you might expect it to be if you aren’t used to looking at this.

312Icarus
Posts: 458
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:53 am

First, once the plugs are

Post by 312Icarus »

First, once the plugs are clean, pull the plug wires one at a time and see if each side is running and how well compared to the other. Then turn the fuel peacock off and see if, if it runs better for a bit. Then check to see if each slide is in the same pin hole on the slide

Icarus

312Icarus
Posts: 458
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:53 am

First, once the plugs are

Post by 312Icarus »

Dupe...sorry

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Beemer100
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 15, 2018 5:32 pm

before pulling a plug wire

Post by Beemer100 »

before pulling a plug wire while engine is running make sure you don't have an electronic ignition installed. They need both spark plug wires grounded!!!

back to my first contribution: Check if the carb floats are clear and don't stick. Changing tops doesn't necessarily give you the answer since it also can be the little seat on the bottom of the bowl or also the the side where the collar of the float rubs the bowl. Check also the floats if they are dry inside. Use "ahistands" idea to check if both bowls contain the same amount.
You are right, excess gas will come out of the carb (mainly through the idle adjustment screw ... it is meant to be the overflow valve to avoid that the gas runs straight into the engine) but already before reaching this level, this cylinder will get more gas. Again check, if your idle jet is free of any dirt. The hole is veeeeery little and veeeery little debris can cause problems.
Once that is done, again, check if the 2 carbs are in sync. You can pull the plug wires one at a time (if you run the original ignition), or you use your ear, or the rear mirror or your hand on the tank. You can hear or feel if both carbs don't work the same. You also can use syncrometers. Helps me a lot ... too much Led Zeppelin in my earlier years. You have to make sure that both cylinders do the same works (means have the same revs at any given throttle position). Otherwise, the cylinder which does more work WILL get hotter than the other one.

Klaus

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davidmcctan
Posts: 35
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm

Do you guys grind the needle

Post by davidmcctan »

Do you guys grind the needle and seat with grinding compound?

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