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Right cylinder running rich
- davidmcctan
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm
Right cylinder running rich
Happy holidays to everybody..
I took apart the engine which was on my r60 / 2 which was running perfectly to do a Slinger change out and now my right cylinder is running a Rich. Went through the motions from plugs, carbs, compression, valve timing and all seems good. I swear it fells like i left a rag in the intake manifold, but I've gone through it and can't find anything. One thing i did change were the mufflers . I will try and put back the old one on the right side , but grasping at straws at this point. Any input appreciated
Ps..on a heat gun, the right side runs 75 degrees cooler than the left after a while, like 5 minutes. Plug is wet on idle
David ... 75 degrees
So I assume it's in Fahrenheit.
You say you went through the obvious: Valves, compression, timing and carbs. Since it apparently only ran at idle I would check the carbs again. Mainly the float and the idle circuit. Then I would make sure the carbs are in sync. Definitely change the wet plug.
I have to agree. Sounds like
Mike
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar
- davidmcctan
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm
Temp was in F I did run it
I did run it around for 30 minutes and the plug was darkened ( Fuel Foul)
Question: if the bowl sticks, wouldn't the fuel start coming out of the overflow...
Also...if the float sticks , doesn't the engine still run normal (not rich), it just has fuel spilling out of the carb?
- davidmcctan
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm
What if i exchange the Carb
Still confused as to a bad float making it run rich...
Unless it dumps the excess fuel back into the carb, that would affect it...
Where is the overflow in a Bing?
Overflow
It should be easy enough to check if you have a float and/or needle that isn’t seating properly without switching tops or floats. Just turn the fuel petcock to the on position with the engine not running. Then pull both tops off and compare the fuel levels. I don’t have the exact measurement on me but the fuel level should appear surprisingly low, like lower than you might expect it to be if you aren’t used to looking at this.
First, once the plugs are
Icarus
before pulling a plug wire
back to my first contribution: Check if the carb floats are clear and don't stick. Changing tops doesn't necessarily give you the answer since it also can be the little seat on the bottom of the bowl or also the the side where the collar of the float rubs the bowl. Check also the floats if they are dry inside. Use "ahistands" idea to check if both bowls contain the same amount.
You are right, excess gas will come out of the carb (mainly through the idle adjustment screw ... it is meant to be the overflow valve to avoid that the gas runs straight into the engine) but already before reaching this level, this cylinder will get more gas. Again check, if your idle jet is free of any dirt. The hole is veeeeery little and veeeery little debris can cause problems.
Once that is done, again, check if the 2 carbs are in sync. You can pull the plug wires one at a time (if you run the original ignition), or you use your ear, or the rear mirror or your hand on the tank. You can hear or feel if both carbs don't work the same. You also can use syncrometers. Helps me a lot ... too much Led Zeppelin in my earlier years. You have to make sure that both cylinders do the same works (means have the same revs at any given throttle position). Otherwise, the cylinder which does more work WILL get hotter than the other one.
Klaus
- davidmcctan
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:54 pm