Make sure both are the same length
Looks like the one on the left is not seated all the way
You can find a bolt that fits inside the tube and put a flat washer on it to use as a drift
Tommy
Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3, 55 R50/Velorex 560 sidecar, 64 R27, 68 R69US, 75 R75/6
Ashfield, Ma
USA
Its the crappy rubber of all the reproductions IMO. I have original 50 year old ones that I replaced that are a little hardened but not cracked like my couple year old ones on my rebuilt motors. These new seals need very little pressure on them or they will start to crack. The original rubber is far superior.
I wouldn’t worry about your sleeved cylinders. I’m definitely no expert on cylinder boring or sleeving but this method has been used plenty by reputable builders and machine shops. I’ve also heard claims of poor heat transfer but my guess is that these are claims with little to no evidence to back them up and probably more just personal opinions for one reason or the other. I’ve built sever motors with sleeves without issue, and always used very reputable and well known machine shops to do the work. None of my motors ever gave problem or showed evidence of poor heat transfer but I also don’t have any hard numerical data to support that, so...
As to the dark line on the pushrod tubes....do not necessarily use that as a reference to base how far to press the tubes into the cylinder. That line is where the factory machines the O.D. of the tube for the proper fit into the cylinder, and rarely does that line correlate exactly to the depth at which the tubes were inserted into the cylinder from the factory.