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saddle bags for R50/2
I do not think the bags are
The original Enduros are/were pretty crude.
That fairing is really nice. Do yo also have lowers and mounting hardware?
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol, 1991 Honda XR250L
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Original
bags
Id bet if you cleaned them up they they would sell fairly easy. I used Flex Seal on the inside of mine and they looked great. If it helps I still have a set of original hardware to mount them.
No Lower Fairing
Still working on getting the bike to run well ... but that will be another post someday.
-- Mark
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Bags
- miller6997
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- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Flanders
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California
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Luggage
Dealing with Oldtimers has been fine and they delivered in just a couple weeks at most, if I recall correctly.
Oldtimer luggage photos (as delivered): https://photos.app.goo.gl/WxSKdhJgN7hyxpWT2
IF anyone is interested, I have set of cravens with a small trunk box in fair condition. Includes rack. $500. IN Santa Clara CA.
Cravens for sale https://photos.app.goo.gl/QE3zcAYznZfTLXDl1
Scottie's Workshop, 3282 E Hwy 4, Murphys CA
Full Service Workshop for vintage and classic BMW Motorcycles http://blog.scottiesharpe.com
- oldtimers.si
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Oldtimer bags: A footnote
yes for all screw using Loctite on all the threads , only for LANGE SCREW use grease to the thread
this long screw have great FIX and PROTECT FUNCTION when you lock bags
thanks,Mec
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- miller6997
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Oldtimer bags: A footnote
There is a long 6mm threaded shaft with a wing nut welded to one end that goes through a metal tube molded into the back side of the bag. That shaft threads into a matching hole on the lower mounting bracket, which is attached to the frame above the muffler. This attachment stabilizes the bag and prevents it from rattling. I discovered that, when everything is installed and cinched up, it is very difficult to remove that long bolt, which is the first thing that has to be done when you want to take the bag off for any reason. I solved this by placing a hex nut (M6) under the wing nut, which can then be loosened with a short 10mm wrench. This saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingers.
Additionally, to make removing the bags easier I suggest loosening all of the upper and lower attachment points, including the bolt above the muffler where the lower bracket attaches to the frame. When everything is loose and sloppy, it relieves the tension on the 6mm shaft and makes it easier to loosen.
Although the instructions advise using Loctite on all the threads, I did the opposite on that long shaft. I used NeverSeize lubricant.
And finally, I made a heavy rubber spacer, 6mm thick, which I placed between the lower bracket and the bottom of the saddle bag. This prevents the metal bracket from damaging the bag. A thick rubber washer would do the trick just as well.
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California
- miller6997
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- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
Still fiddling with the lights
At the moment I have bulbs from Superbright LEDs and have wired them as turn signals. If this video will open for you, you can see how the LEDs compare to the ordinary 12V incandescents that I still have on the front of the bike. No contest: the old technology is clearly better than the new.
I'll keep looking for a better solution. If need be, I'll use the bag lights just as additional running lights and install the Skene P3 system for the blinkers. I would rather not do that, because I don't want to look like a rolling Christmas tree.
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California