saddle bags for R50/2

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stagewex
Posts: 460
Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:18 am

I do not think the bags are

Post by stagewex »

I do not think the bags are original as the real-deals were textured. However... they could have been somehow coated for smoothness if in poor original condition. I'm saying that because they look on the inside and back pretty crude and maybe an amateur fix.
The original Enduros are/were pretty crude.

That fairing is really nice. Do yo also have lowers and mounting hardware?
mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol, 1991 Honda XR250L

Jim D 5112
Posts: 160
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Original

Post by Jim D 5112 »

I had a pair of original bags that a PO had coated the outside to make them smooth. Sold them 6 - 8 years ago. The paint was not quite that good as I remember. But could have been painted or maybe just another pair.

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skychs
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA

bags

Post by skychs »

Those bags have all the looks of the original Enduros except the smooth finish. Everything else (inside, back side) looks authentic. Wow. I wish I knew more about their history.

Id bet if you cleaned them up they they would sell fairly easy. I used Flex Seal on the inside of mine and they looked great. If it helps I still have a set of original hardware to mount them.

marksd100
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 2:38 pm

No Lower Fairing

Post by marksd100 »

No lower fairing or mounting hardware. The guy I bought the bike from had the fairing up in the rafter of his garage. He couldn't find any parts. Same with the bags.

Still working on getting the bike to run well ... but that will be another post someday.

-- Mark

Jim D 5112
Posts: 160
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Bags

Post by Jim D 5112 »

The pair that I had that had the smooth finish applied to them came from Colorado in probably the late 80s. I sold them at the AMCA antique meet at Oley Pa.

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miller6997
Posts: 1147
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Flanders

Post by miller6997 »

The fairing in the picture is a Flanders. As far as I know, they never made a lower portion for that item. Wixom made both uppers and lowers.
Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

scottiesharpe
Posts: 115
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:23 pm

Luggage

Post by scottiesharpe »

Sorry I haven't touched this thread in a while. Had the flu. Yuk!

Dealing with Oldtimers has been fine and they delivered in just a couple weeks at most, if I recall correctly.

Oldtimer luggage photos (as delivered): https://photos.app.goo.gl/WxSKdhJgN7hyxpWT2

IF anyone is interested, I have set of cravens with a small trunk box in fair condition. Includes rack. $500. IN Santa Clara CA.

Cravens for sale https://photos.app.goo.gl/QE3zcAYznZfTLXDl1

Scottie Sharpe, Proprietor
Scottie's Workshop, Santa Clara CA
Full Service repairs, maintenance and restoration workshop for vintage and classic BMW Motorcycles http://blog.scottiesharpe.com

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oldtimers.si
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:00 am

Oldtimer bags: A footnote

Post by oldtimers.si »

hi,Jon and another members
yes for all screw using Loctite on all the threads , only for LANGE SCREW use grease to the thread
this long screw have great FIX and PROTECT FUNCTION when you lock bags


thanks,Mec
Attachments
grease.jpg
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miller6997
Posts: 1147
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Oldtimer bags: A footnote

Post by miller6997 »

The Oldtimer bags are not especially difficult to install, but here is a note that might make the removal process go a little smoother for future purchasers:

There is a long 6mm threaded shaft with a wing nut welded to one end that goes through a metal tube molded into the back side of the bag. That shaft threads into a matching hole on the lower mounting bracket, which is attached to the frame above the muffler. This attachment stabilizes the bag and prevents it from rattling. I discovered that, when everything is installed and cinched up, it is very difficult to remove that long bolt, which is the first thing that has to be done when you want to take the bag off for any reason. I solved this by placing a hex nut (M6) under the wing nut, which can then be loosened with a short 10mm wrench. This saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingers.

Additionally, to make removing the bags easier I suggest loosening all of the upper and lower attachment points, including the bolt above the muffler where the lower bracket attaches to the frame. When everything is loose and sloppy, it relieves the tension on the 6mm shaft and makes it easier to loosen.

Although the instructions advise using Loctite on all the threads, I did the opposite on that long shaft. I used NeverSeize lubricant.

And finally, I made a heavy rubber spacer, 6mm thick, which I placed between the lower bracket and the bottom of the saddle bag. This prevents the metal bracket from damaging the bag. A thick rubber washer would do the trick just as well.




Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

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miller6997
Posts: 1147
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Still fiddling with the lights

Post by miller6997 »

After installing the Oldtimer bags, I have tried several different festoon bulbs in the bag lights and am still not completely satisfied.

At the moment I have bulbs from Superbright LEDs and have wired them as turn signals. If this video will open for you, you can see how the LEDs compare to the ordinary 12V incandescents that I still have on the front of the bike. No contest: the old technology is clearly better than the new.

I'll keep looking for a better solution. If need be, I'll use the bag lights just as additional running lights and install the Skene P3 system for the blinkers. I would rather not do that, because I don't want to look like a rolling Christmas tree.
Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

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