1969 R60/2 not running

[MikeL46]

I would think your gas cap is poorly vented, or not vented at all. Try running until it stalls, then remove the cap and see if it runs for more than a minute.

Mike

[Cliff]

I would also check the ignition timing. I once had the advance spring break and caused the advance to go too far. This caused an overheating problem and then new pistons.

[stagewex]

I think you should try a couple of these almost zero labor and no cost things or you are just going to keep guessing (and us too).
I'm the "it doesn't mean crap if you think your fuel tank is clean its now in your carbs" guy.
Do a full fuel douche and carb bath in an ultrasonic cleaner to eliminate that from the equation. If it is not the problem then move-on knowing that this issue has been taken care of as a regular maintenance exercise anyway. Not a bad thing.

The fuel cap venting (or lack of) that was/is suggested is another easy simple task to check. Never had that problem on my /2 but did on other motorcycles.

More times than often these things are something simple that was overlooked and dismissed before settling in on the heavy and serious stuff.

From a "clean" fuel tank. Of course my '69 is almost 49 years old.

All my non-expert knowledge is from stuff screwing up and getting out of it (after awhile and I'm lucky).

[Anthony fish]

The bike started and stalled after about 5 minutes of riding. Then I emediatlly pulled the plug and I did not have a spark. Checked for spark again today and very weak at first then none at all again. I checked the gap on the points and that fine. I think I’m gonna try the coil and condensor, makes the most sense because when I’d was running it ran terrific. So I still rule out the carbs or gas.

Thanks for all the advise, it really helped.

I’ll Keep you posted on my results.

Anthony

[schrader7032]

What about the safety gap at the magneto? The gap should be around 10mm. I wonder if the spark is jumping to ground first rather than going to the spark plugs.

[Anthony fish]

I will check that before replacing the coil and condenser

[Daves79x]

IMHO opinion and somewhat limited experience, any original coil should be replaced. I'm quite sure that's your problem, and you have the classic symptoms of it.

Dave

[Captonzap]

Classic case of a failing capacitor. Magneto's are like that.

CZ

[Danedg]

Take the whole magneto apart and clean it. The coil won't fire if the housing is dirty...A properly grounded magneto is essential for the ignition system to fire reliably. Your plugs, caps, wires and coil all need to be zero resistance and thoroughly grounded. Often overlooked is the magneto assembly itself. It looks clean, but after 50 years, electrically it is not. Add heat and your magneto resistance to the block goes up, and your ground is compromised. This is why these bikes will start fine when cold but can be a bugger when hot. Remove the whole deal and carefully "clean" all mating surfaces from the points plate back to the timing case cover. 300 grit sandpaper works well. Your magneto assembly will then regain zero resistance (continuity) to ground, allowing the coil to "fire" properly. Try it, you'll like it!

[Anthony fish]

Yes, I ordered a new coil and capacitor to play it safe, When I ordered it Richard from Bench Mark Works stated the same thing clean the whole assembly.

Thanks

Anthony