Removing bar end turn signals

[hooverbj]

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I want to put lower handle bars (replacing the high bars) that were on the bike when I got it. Is there a way to remove the bar end signals without tearing into the clusterF*@! of wires in the headlight shell?
Thanks,
Brian Hoover
1966 R50/2
Cedar City, Utah

[schrader7032]

According to the wiring diagram Vech has on his site, there is a single wire for each side that gets its connection at the flasher that is installed inside the headlight bucket. The single wire carries power to the bulb...it's ground at the other end of the bulb. So, probably not a good idea to just leave the wires floating around since they have power at the end of them.

Are you going to reuse the bar end signals on the low bars? If that's the case, you can just pull them out, install the new bars, and reroute the wires to the bar ends. IIRC the wire runs on the inside of the bar...a small hole is drilled near the headlight which allows the wire inside the bars.

[hooverbj]

Yes, I'm going to replace the bar end signals; Haven't dived into it yet, so I'm just asking questions in advance. Thanks!

[Twocams]

On mine, took the plug out of the end. One of the lens covers needs to be removed to get bulb out? The wire coming into the signal has a small screw ( spring also?) to remove the wire. Once the bulb is removed and end cap. If you look deep inside you well see a screw head with wire going threw. This also is to loosen and tighten the lite fixture to the bar ends.

twocams

[hooverbj]

I talked to Richard at Vech. When he asked if I was going to keep my old high bars, and I said no, assuming that I would prefer the new low ones. He said good, because I could hacksaw the old ones off. Why would I have to cut them off? I see the chrome clamps that hold the bars in place are one piece. Does this mean they don't open up enough to allow new bars without breaking?

[Twocams]

I think that is possible for them to break. But mine also chipped some of the chrome by opening and closing on one. The other I heated up some with a heat gun/didnt chip the chrome. But these were my old ones that were re chromed.

twocams

[schrader7032]

Aren't you going to have to open up the clamps to get the low bars on? Why destroy something that someone in the future could use...possibly you in umpteen years?

Duane has talked about these in the past...I'm sure Vech has experience as well. The originals from the factory could be spread open and closed with no issues. The aftermarket not so much.

[bstratton]

I'll jump in here just because I am doing the same thing on my bike (same as yours) but 1 year older.

I also have bar end signals and high bars. They came out easily as mentioned above. I pulled the wires out of the handlebars and labeled them after I got the signals out. The handlebar came off easily, too. No need to cut anything. Not sure If I am going to re-plate my clamps or replace but they opened up plenty far to get them off the bar.

[hooverbj]

bstratton,
Were you able to remove the clutch assembly and throttle assembly, with out undoing any of the cables? I haven't gotten into it yet, but I was hoping to do so without having to re-adjust the cables on both sides. I was also hoping I could just let things dangle while I put new bars on? Probably will attack the job over Thanksgiving...if the new bars get here.
Thanks,
Brian

[skychs]

I just did the opposite. I took the low bars off and installed the high bars with the Hella turn signals. If your high bars have the cross over you will have to spread the risers to slip it out. If you do not have a cross over the bars will slide right out. To spread the top of the riser ...... add a second nut to the base. Secure it in a vise. Heat the riser then spread it apart using a punch or long (strong) screwdriver. Mine did not crack or mark the riser in any way. Don't forget you may have to swap out all the cables for the shorter bars.

Hooverbj ....... if you loosen the risers you can slide the bars left or right. If you do that the clutch/throttle controls should slide right off. If not, take the screws out of the levers and remove the tops of the cables. Keep tension on the throttle cables or they can slide out of position inside the carb.

I love the look of the low bars/signals but IMHO the bike handles much better with the high bars. With the handles spread further apart I have better leverage/control at low speeds and in the twisties. They also allow me to loosing up the friction lock for easier movement. If Im correct .... most US models shipped to the states had the high bars.