1968 R60/2 Partial Restoration

Daves79x · Post by **Daves79x** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:06 am

Putting the pin in from the top does change the angle of the shifter. I think this has been widely commented on. If you look at the pin and the bore it goes into on the shifter, one hole is larger - the bottom one - and that's where the head of the pin is meant to seat. Just looked at mine and the top of the head of the shifter (part with the rubber) is just flush with the bottom of the frame tube. Yours looks to be significantly lower than that. Hope you are right, but others with far more expertise and experience may chime in. Here is a thread that addresses this issue:

http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/5194

Dave

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:13 pm

Well .....
Im going to listen to you. It's the reason I'm here, correct?

The engine is bolted in but the drive shaft is not connected yet and the swing arm is still loose. I'll disconnect the swing arm, pull the drive shaft back and see if I can lift and twist the tranny out. If I remember correctly that's how I took it out the first time.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Daves79x · Post by **Daves79x** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 11:20 pm

I know you won't go wrong by changing it. If I hadn't stumbled upon this info when I was researching my build, and had relied on the parts fiche (as I often still do), I would have done the exact same thing. Bummer BMW got that wrong. Another thing they show likely backwards is the rear brake arm pivot bolt. You can install it with the nut toward the fender, before the fender is on, but you'll never get it off without taking the fender off. Many original bikes and most restorations have it with the castellated nut out, but BMW shows in the parts book the other way. Not as critical as the shifter though. Good luck!

Dave

wa1nca · Post by **wa1nca** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:14 am

I also installed mine upside down and was hard shifting into 1st gear
It does look wrong if the nut is on top

I don't think the transmission has to come out
Its great that Dave noticed it in upside down at this point
You don't need a lot of clearance to reinstall it
I think if you remove the upper engine mount and take out the rear engine bolt you can tilt it up to get the clearance you need
Worst case you may have to support the engine/trany and also remove the front engine bolt

Your bike looks great and thanks for the update
I sure wish I new this when I installed mine

Tommy

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:22 pm

Thanks Dave.

The rear brake arm pivot bolt was my next issue. I'll readdress that as soon as I get the shifter pin turned around.

Tommy, thanks for your input. Since the drive shaft is not connected yet it may be a lot easier tilting the engine.

I'm out of town until Tuesday. I will have plenty of time to think about it.

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:41 am

I also installed mine upside down and was hard shifting into 1st gear
It does look wrong if the nut is on top
I don't think the transmission has to come out
Its great that Dave noticed it in upside down at this point
You don't need a lot of clearance to reinstall it
I think if you remove the upper engine mount and take out the rear engine bolt you can tilt it up to get the clearance you need
Worst case you may have to support the engine/trany and also remove the front engine bolt
Your bike looks great and thanks for the update
I sure wish I new this when I installed mine
Tommy

Tommy ..... Thank you sir !! Like you said, all I did was remove the upper engine mount, the rear engine lower bolt and tip the engine forward (scissor jack) just enough to access the pin from the underside. The drive shaft was already disconnected. I didn't even have to take off the front engine cover.

Thanks again for everyone's input. Now I have to work on the rear brake rod assembly.

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:45 pm

Once I got the shifter pin in the correct position I went to work. I finished wiring the battery, rear light and grounds. I added the seat, the tank and I finished the rear brake arm. I ended up inserting the bolt from the inside going out. I hope that works......

All I really have left to do is ..... the headlight bucket. Wiring and key. Once that is all in I will attach the drive shaft then go over the bike and tighten everything I can find. Im only a couple days from adding fuel and taking her for a ride. I think.

wa1nca · Post by **wa1nca** » Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:16 am

Looks great
Its always a good feeling to be so near your first ride

But
Before you do go out
The upper bolt on the right front shock is in backwards

I haven't done that one but did run my 55 r50 for several years before I realized the the ears holding the headlight were installed upside down

You also must pass the 100 point inspection by are members before you first ride
Hope this doesn't delay your first run

Tommy

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:09 pm

Thanks Tommy.
I know about the shock bolts. Nothing is tightened up yet. I still need to install the front swing arm bushing seals so its all coming apart. Thats the job today.

I look forward to the 100 point inspections. Its incredible what you guys notice.

skychs · Post by **skychs** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:13 am

In regards to the 100 point inspection .......

I was having toooooo much fun today. See anything wrong in the photos?

Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners

1968 R60/2 Partial Restoration

It Does

Shifter

I Know You Won't Go Wrong

Shifter pinch bolt

Thanks

pin

progress

Upper front shock bolt

Bolt

inspection