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1968 R60/2 Partial Restoration

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skychs
Posts: 586
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA
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paint

Post by skychs »

Single-stage paint is just that. No clearcoat. Your painter has to get paint mixed that is just that. It requires a catalyst, but goes on just fine and the finish is fantastic. It also can be wet sanded and buffed if any imperfections happen. Hand stripe directly over the paint and no clear. Message me if you need the exact paint details.

Dave

Dave, you have a message. I need all the info you can send. Thanks

Im not sure what Id do without everyone input. Thanks to everyone. Great stuff to know.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

Daves79x
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My understanding is that the

Post by Daves79x »

My understanding is that the current Glasurit system is water-based. As is all German/European paint systems. Clearcoat, however, is not water-based as far as I know. There are compatible clears I think, but the hardness is suspect.

I didn't know that there were areas in the US that distillate/solvent based paints were 'forbidden'. But you are on the West coast, so what a surprise. In the free US, we can still get state-of-the-art single stage distillate-based paint (real paint, if you will). It is what I just used to paint Dover White, and the finish is outstanding.

Dave
Dave

Daves79x
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Message

Post by Daves79x »

Your message didn't come through, at least not that I can see. Try again?

Dave
Dave

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schrader7032
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There may be a problem with

Post by schrader7032 »

There may be a problem with the message system. I've found that using the Contact tab on a person's profile doesn't seem to work. But if you try the Message application on the left side of the screen and send a message to the user's forum name, that seems to work. Hopefully this will get fixed.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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Slash2
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If a little bondo in the tank

Post by Slash2 »

If a little bondo in the tank is the worst issue you encounter I'd consider yourself lucky. Solid original tanks that just need a good coat of paint come up regularly for little money if you wanna rid yourself of the whole issue. It's tough to tell from the photos but the frame looks great. A little metallic flake might look damn nice unless you're going for factory original in which case, I see the dilemma. I've read about rebuilding the shocks with mixed reviews. Seems that most guys say just buy new, "it's a huge PITA rebuilding them." I haven't attempted so I couldn't say for myself.

Either way, thanks for the update on your progress. Lookin good!
Western Pennsylvanian - Airhead Extraordinaire

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skychs
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Update

Post by skychs »

A little update on the restoration. In the process I found several issue, one being really bad. I discovered my front shocks were leaking and all the bushings need to be replaced. The bad one ...... When I took off the left BMW emblem on the tank I found no holes and the emblem was glued on. Apparently there has been some body work and that area of the tank has filled in with filler. So, no structural integrity to attach the emblem with screws. Now what?

In regards to the frame I applied Avus 8086 black paint. It looks good in the garage buy in direct sunlight it looks like it has silver metallic in it. Another hurdle in the restoration. Good thing I have all winter to work on this thing.

At this point I almost want to drop the engine and just redo the frame. Im so close but so far away.



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1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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skychs
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Update

Post by skychs »

Well .....
After a couple of hard weeks and having the dang bike almost taken completely apart I finally broke down and decided to do it right. Im going to finish stripping the frame and have the frame powder coated. The rattle can painting was going well but in the long run I knew the powder coat would last ten times as long and be more durable. So, all I have left are the two lower bolts and out goes the engine.

Its been a lot of fun so far. Working on the final drive, shaft and swing arm slowed me down a little but I managed to get through it. In place of a swing arm race removal tool I chopped down a pair of needle nose pliers until the tips filled the small holes in the race. Worked like a charm. The only thing left to figure out is how to take the shaft out of the swing arm. I loosened the nut in the far end but it didn't free up the shaft.

The shop today quoted me $400 for powder coating the frame, swing arm and center stand. That included sand blasting everything down to bare metal. Gloss black. Sounded fairly reasonable to me for all the work.

Oh, the bike still had the original ball bearings for the steering head and I don't think they were all there. It will get tapered bearings for the rebuild.

Anyway, here are some of the photos.
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1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

Daves79x
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Just a little from my

Post by Daves79x »

Just a little from my experience - powder coating is OK - IF you prep it correctly. I just don't mean blasting to bare metal, etc, I mean prepping the mounting points, plugging threaded holes, masking anywhere you don't want powder coat. Steering stem, bearing race surfaces, axle bores, all kinds of things possibly a commercial enterprise doing your frame wouldn't necessarily do. I'd have them blast the frame, then get the frame back and do all the above prep - then have them powder coat. You'll be a lot more satisfied.

Dave
Dave

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skychs
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powder coat

Post by skychs »

Just a little from my experience - powder coating is OK - IF you prep it correctly. I just don't mean blasting to bare metal, etc, I mean prepping the mounting points, plugging threaded holes, masking anywhere you don't want powder coat. Steering stem, bearing race surfaces, axle bores, all kinds of things possibly a commercial enterprise doing your frame wouldn't necessarily do. I'd have them blast the frame, then get the frame back and do all the above prep - then have them powder coat. You'll be a lot more satisfiedDave

I appreciate the input. I discussed all of that with the guy who is powder coating the bike. They do a lot of motorcycle frames so he aware of all the prep. I left the old ball bearing races in the steering head to help protect the stem. They will come out when I install the new tapered bearings. In regards to all the threaded holes if anything gets in there I have a nice tap/die set and plan to clean them up before I put everything back together.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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skychs
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Paint

Post by skychs »

Well .....
Today I dropped off the frame parts to get powder coated. I switched to another guy who was recommended to me from a local BMW restoration shop. Apparently the guy builds custom motorcycles and has a great reputation for detail. Since he specializes in motorcycles I though he would be a great choice. I will keep you posted on that.

I also picked up the painted parts tonight fresh from the clear coat. Overall I think he did a pretty good job. Once everything dries Im sure one wet sanding and buffing will take care of any imperfections we find. I was supposed to drop it all off tomorrow for pin striping but I think Im going to wait a week or so to do it. Avus 8086 Black.

Here are the photos from the day.

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1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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