1968 R60/2 New to me

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skychs
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA

1968 R60/2 New to me

Post by skychs »

Let me try this again. Sorry

Today I picked up a new to me 1968 R60/2. Ive had the bug for many years and have always wanted to own a vintage BMW. I currently own a 2007 R1200GS as well.

Here are a couple photos. Please let me know if you see something out of place. Original? What needs to be done. Im new to all this but Im very excited to start enjoying her.

thanks

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312Icarus
Posts: 458
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:53 am

Looks pretty straight to me.

Post by 312Icarus »

Looks pretty straight to me. Nice looking ride. Do you have any history on service, most specifically oil slinger service?

Icarus

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miller6997
Posts: 1153
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Nice! How about the history?

Post by miller6997 »

That's a very clean bike. Is it a restoration, and if so, how much do you know about the work that was done? What's the mileage? The chrome air cleaner is not stock.
Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

808Airhead
Posts: 1016
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:06 pm

Looks nice. Do the basics,buy

Post by 808Airhead »

Looks nice. Do the basics,buy a set of
1. Valve cover gaskets....in anticipation of required valve adjustments.
2. Extra ignition coil if yours is the original lacquered type.
3. 2 Carb gasket sets and extra spacers between carb & head
4. Spark plugs,NGK or NOS Bosch W4AC
5. Extra cables
6. Set of EMPI synch tools if you want PERFECT carb adjustments
7.Some 6V bulbs,sometimes they can be difficult to source
8. Air filter
9. Points/condenser set
10.Extra float needles and float set (plastic ones are great)
11.Barrington BMWmanual
12. A source for Valvoline VR-1 30 or 40 wt. oil (depending on temps)This oil has Zinc/ZDDP which is essential for these flat tappet motors.
13. Shock bushing set (one of the first things I noticed was "bad" on my R60/2)
14. Extra exhaust copper rings (2-4)
15. Carb inlet rubber sleeves
16. Oil pan gasket

This is a good post war BMW "starter kit" if you plan on keeping the bike long term and want to reduce the frustration of getting to know and service your machine.
I have 4 post war bikes and these are the "basics" to have on hand if you want to enjoy a long term relationship with your new steed. If you are lacking these things and need them,there will be a delay,or you can have the on hand and still enjoy your planned ride.
One of the FIRST THINGS TO REDUCE FRUSTRATION is to have the machine properly timed and in a good state of tune and with clean,well functioning carbs so you can UNDERSTAND THE STARTING PROCEDURE!!! This will come with time and a few mistakes as well as revealing any shortcomings in the tune/ignition coil/compression-engine condition. Do the;
1. Turn on the fuel,wait until the filters fill up (if you have the clear see-through filters),push down each tickler for 5 seconds( count in your head 1-one thousand,2 one thousand,etc.) do a light 1/2 kick to suck in the rich fuel mixture,then lightly press the kick start until you feel compression building,the give it a swift kick with the throttle 1/4 open or less so it will still have vacuum in the carb,and it should fire 1-2 kicks. If the bike is not right or you do not do this correctly it will be 20-30 kicks or bumpstart it,lol.
Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
Posts: 1016
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:06 pm

Hot starting will be greatly

Post by 808Airhead »

Hot starting will be greatly helped by;
1. Before turning off the bike, turn off the fuel tap and let it run for atleast a minute or so,(I turn off my tap about 1/2 block to my destination),this is to lower the level in the float bowls. Then,if it has been a short time (2-5 minutes) when you come back to start it I just turn on the key and SOMETIMES it will start 1 kick,then quickly turn on the gas and blip the throttle until idle stabilises,if it does not start /been sitting for 15 minutes or more,then I turn on the fuel,wait until the filters fill up,then with the throttle SLIGHTLY cracked,give it a good kick,and it is usually 1-2 kicks--PERFECT! If this procedure is not done correctly get ready for 20-30 kicks or BUMPSTART if you are pressed for time. It is best to get to perfect the starting routine since the design of the bikes driveshaft does not encourage bumpstarting on a regular basis.

After the starting routine gets comfortable,the PRACTICE the shifting,make sure you have 5 mm or so freeplay at the clutch lever,and here is a easy to understand tip;
1. Between each shift,pull in the clutch,LET OFF THE GAS,slightly PRE-LOAD (put light pressure in the direction of the shift)count in your head "1-2" THEN shift up,this results in a near silent,satisfying "snick" into the next gear,I have gotten this routine down,only after driving 20K + miles on these machines,so it is a "badge of honor" to shift these machines correctly! The key is letting the revs drop (hence the 1-2 count) and the preload slows down the shift dog and makes for a quieter engagement.
2. Downshifting is a scary proposition,get to know the speed your bike likes to be downshifted and do it quickly,that will result in success or a loud thunk,it is still hit or miss for me!! Good luck!!!
I absolutely love these anachronastic machines of irrefutable,unmatched quality and getting to know them is essential,HAVE FUN!
Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
Posts: 1016
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:06 pm

Sounds like you got lucky and

Post by 808Airhead »

Sounds like you got lucky and got a good "runner". Score!
Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

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skychs
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA

R60/2

Post by skychs »

Thanks for all the good information.

History of the bike .... it only goes back one owner but I do know the engine and tranny have been rebuilt. The slinger has recently been serviced. It has new cables, new battery, new coil, new points, condenser and has had the valves and timing recently set. The carbs have recently been rebuilt and the bike starts on the first kick. I understand I have to marry the bike to figure out how to start her and keep her running.

The frame is original but I suspect the tank and fenders have been painted. The shock bushings have all be addressed. The milage is indicating 32,000 and is suspected to be accurate. The previous owner bought the bike with 11K miles on her and rode her on a regular basis keeping her up to date and running well.

The only issue I have is a wobble in the front end. The previous owner just re-spoked the front wheel (stainless) so Im guessing it needs to be trued. The steering head bearings are fine. The tranny is smooth and shifts quietly. She has plenty of torque. I have a spare key as well as a took kit key.

Did I miss anything?

The bike came with a took kit, extra two up seat and an owners manual.


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skychs
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:12 pm
Location: Richmond VA

Todays ride

Post by skychs »

I finally got the R60 home and out for a ride today. Wow. Such a smooth bike. Im going to enjoy this one for a long time.

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narcop482
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www.bmwhucky.org

Post by narcop482 »

www.bmwhucky.org

Hans Lowe is owner/operator. Hands down the most knowledgeable vintage BMW guru I have ever met. He sells only online. Best prices anywhere. I've been buying everything I need from him for over 20 years.

312Icarus
Posts: 458
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:53 am

Dead link

Post by 312Icarus »

^Dead link? Icarus

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