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One Thing

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 8:59 am
by Daves79x
One thing that seems universally true about replacement shocks for the /2 is that they are all rather stiffer than the originals. I put 4 new ones on my R50 restoration. I'd have to say they are decidedly stiffer than the originals,though I never rode it before (came in boxes). I have ridden a few other original bikes and they all seemed much smoother riding than my R50. I think I have heard this expressed before.

Dave

Adjustable?

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 12:28 pm
by miller6997
If they are adjustable, they may be set on the stiffest option. My Konis have a significant range of variation, depending on how they are dialed in.

Straighten the pan

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 6:45 pm
by jwonder
When I take my oil pans off, I always straighten them. I put a 1/4" thick x 3" wide metal plate in my vice and I use that on the bottom side of the pan and a light ball peen hammer (flat side) on the top to the make the mating surface flat. It's not that hard but you need to be easy with the hammer and not over do it.

A touch with a light file on the mating surface will show you where the uneven parts are as well!

Once they are straight I don't use any sealant and just put the cork gasket on. Never had a leak yet!!!

Edit: The only parts I put silicon on are the bolts that go into the block that are open to the oil. You can have some oil seepage down the threads. Also, don't over tighten it. That is what bends them.

Ride

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:03 am
by San Arthur
When I inspected the old shocks they had no action at all, only the springs where working. I will check, hopefully soon and report back. Thanks for your lines Dave

No adjust

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:07 am
by San Arthur
There are no adjust in these classic shock cartridges only the preload in the rear struts.

Maybe a heavy breakfast could compensate? Thanks Jnn for commenting.

Straighten the pan

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:17 am
by San Arthur
James, the pan is original to the bike and had suffer a lot of abuse and repairs. I guess the leak is from a frontal hit in the front top left lip. I'm afraid it will break if I try to bend. If the silicon does not work I will try to use heat and worst case scenario I will replace.

I have to admit my plan was only to repaint the fuel tank, but one thing let to another and several month later I'm here. It was never my intention to do a full restoration, I only want to fix all the problems cause by decades of use.

Inside the oil pan

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:46 am
by San Arthur
Inside the oil pan.

I took a picture from inside the oil pan.
The oil pump grill is on top the pan at the buttom.
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Here you see the sealant doing it’s job.
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I inserted the camera, turn off all the light and shine a super bright flashlight from outside of the pan/engine gap and nothing.

How long do I have to wait to let the sealant dry?

Hubs
I also sand blasted the hubs and I notice play inside within the bearings. I may have to replace the inner working of the hubs, oh my.
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Shock Eyes

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:47 am
by San Arthur

Today I used the press to install the new shock eyes.

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A very simple and satisfying job.

If You

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 7:47 am
by Daves79x
If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave

Disclaimer

Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 2:26 pm
by San Arthur
If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave

Dave makes a very good point and some comments are in order:

The material and information contained in my posts on this web forum is for general information purposes only. You should not rely upon the material or information on my posts as a basis for making any restorations, mechanical repairs, technical or any other decisions.

If the reader follow my post you will notice I cover with special plugs and tape all critical parts before blasting, painting, sanding, etc. I use 3M preservation tape when needed.

In the case of my hubs, I checked both axle channels before and declared the bearings defunct, later I blasted the hubs.

I left the hardware in place since most of it will be replaced and to protect any mating surfaces. Even so, as a habit mybe, I did cover everywhere with tape.

Dave, thanks for pointing that out is important information.