Retouch or repaint?

Daves79x
Posts: 402
Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:13 pm

One Thing

Post by Daves79x »

One thing that seems universally true about replacement shocks for the /2 is that they are all rather stiffer than the originals. I put 4 new ones on my R50 restoration. I'd have to say they are decidedly stiffer than the originals,though I never rode it before (came in boxes). I have ridden a few other original bikes and they all seemed much smoother riding than my R50. I think I have heard this expressed before.

Dave
Dave

User avatar
miller6997
Posts: 1128
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Adjustable?

Post by miller6997 »

If they are adjustable, they may be set on the stiffest option. My Konis have a significant range of variation, depending on how they are dialed in.
Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

User avatar
jwonder
Posts: 192
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 7:50 pm

Straighten the pan

Post by jwonder »

When I take my oil pans off, I always straighten them. I put a 1/4" thick x 3" wide metal plate in my vice and I use that on the bottom side of the pan and a light ball peen hammer (flat side) on the top to the make the mating surface flat. It's not that hard but you need to be easy with the hammer and not over do it.

A touch with a light file on the mating surface will show you where the uneven parts are as well!

Once they are straight I don't use any sealant and just put the cork gasket on. Never had a leak yet!!!

Edit: The only parts I put silicon on are the bolts that go into the block that are open to the oil. You can have some oil seepage down the threads. Also, don't over tighten it. That is what bends them.
James Wonder
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

Ride

Post by San Arthur »

When I inspected the old shocks they had no action at all, only the springs where working. I will check, hopefully soon and report back. Thanks for your lines Dave
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

No adjust

Post by San Arthur »

There are no adjust in these classic shock cartridges only the preload in the rear struts.

Maybe a heavy breakfast could compensate? Thanks Jnn for commenting.
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

Straighten the pan

Post by San Arthur »

James, the pan is original to the bike and had suffer a lot of abuse and repairs. I guess the leak is from a frontal hit in the front top left lip. I'm afraid it will break if I try to bend. If the silicon does not work I will try to use heat and worst case scenario I will replace.

I have to admit my plan was only to repaint the fuel tank, but one thing let to another and several month later I'm here. It was never my intention to do a full restoration, I only want to fix all the problems cause by decades of use.
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

Inside the oil pan

Post by San Arthur »

Inside the oil pan.

I took a picture from inside the oil pan.
The oil pump grill is on top the pan at the buttom.
Image

Here you see the sealant doing it’s job.
Image

I inserted the camera, turn off all the light and shine a super bright flashlight from outside of the pan/engine gap and nothing.

How long do I have to wait to let the sealant dry?

Hubs
I also sand blasted the hubs and I notice play inside within the bearings. I may have to replace the inner working of the hubs, oh my.
Image
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

Shock Eyes

Post by San Arthur »


Today I used the press to install the new shock eyes.

Image
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

A very simple and satisfying job.
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Daves79x
Posts: 402
Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:13 pm

If You

Post by Daves79x »

If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave
Dave

User avatar
San Arthur
Posts: 452
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:08 pm

Disclaimer

Post by San Arthur »

If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave


Dave makes a very good point and some comments are in order:

The material and information contained in my posts on this web forum is for general information purposes only. You should not rely upon the material or information on my posts as a basis for making any restorations, mechanical repairs, technical or any other decisions.

If the reader follow my post you will notice I cover with special plugs and tape all critical parts before blasting, painting, sanding, etc. I use 3M preservation tape when needed.

In the case of my hubs, I checked both axle channels before and declared the bearings defunct, later I blasted the hubs.

I left the hardware in place since most of it will be replaced and to protect any mating surfaces. Even so, as a habit mybe, I did cover everywhere with tape.

Dave, thanks for pointing that out is important information.
San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Post Reply