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No suggestions about the shock, but....

Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 7:17 pm
by miller6997
I'll be glad to take that 220S off your hands. It will be comfortable alongside my 180a, and then you'll have more room to work on your BMW.

Sandblasting vs acid

Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:30 pm
by San Arthur
Sandblasting vs acid dipping.
Before sandblasting the frame I´ll remove as much paint with the striper as possible. I wont dip the frame in acid for the obvious reasons.
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Paint bubbles after applying the remover.

Frame numbers

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:18 pm
by San Arthur
I found some numbers on the frame. How can I know what they mean?

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I´m slowly striping the paint off the frame. I was using aircraft paint remover outside, but is getting cold and I´ll move the frame indoors and use the liquid kind.
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I finally found a place that will repair or refurbish the shock cartridges, will send a full report on this latter.
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Crack and scorpion

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 12:52 am
by San Arthur
While removing the paint before the soda blasting I found what I thought was an old paint crack.

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The crack is deeper then expected.

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Is just in front of the stay for the center stand.Years of use and vibration crack the frame in half.

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I´m soda blasting the frame at the museum, and in this parts of Texas, always check your footwear, tools and containers for critters.

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I´ll remove or cut the stay first and then I will hot weld the tube. Any suggestions?

welding the frame

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 3:14 am
by malmac
I have done some homework on frame welding this vintage of frame (Welding tips and tricks.com).

So far I have purchased some ER70 S2 filler rods and plan to weld mine using TIG with Argon shielding.

Obviously getting it clean and trying to clean in the inside of that tube as much as feasible on either side - probably a good idea -

I am sure there is lots more to add but your welder will know all that stuff.



Mal

Real or not?

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 9:19 am
by San Arthur
This is the next job I will tackle. Remove both stops or stays (how are they called?), strengthen the broken frame and reinstall the "triangles".
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I think this one is original.
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This was a latter replacement.
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When in doubt..

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 12:11 am
by San Arthur
The good thing of having access to a shop next to a museum is that when in doubt you can always check the real thing.

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My frame needs a lot of work.

Thanks for writing and sorry for answering so late.

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 12:21 am
by San Arthur
I'll be glad to take that 220S off your hands. It will be comfortable alongside my 180a, and then you'll have more room to work on your BMW.

Jon I was working at Dr. Leo MB´s shop, he owns several W180. I´ll post more pictures on my next visit. I´m helping Leo work on his beautiful R65LS.


Frame repair question

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 4:25 pm
by San Arthur
I´m trying to decide if to use oxy-fuel gas welding technique or TIG.
I´m inkling towards TIG since is quicker and has better penetration.
Any suggestions?




Welding update.

Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:47 am
by San Arthur
I just got the gearbox back from Chris King, he put in the later /5 shift fork adjuster, 3rd gear was slipping and I finally fix the crack and welded a patch over an orifice I found under the paint.

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I need to strip the paint out of the front fork and the driveshaft. First I need to disassemble both before sandblasting and paint.

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Will I need any special tools for the castle nut?