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12 volt Conversion Comparison (New Post)

User avatar
Cliff
Posts: 55
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:45 pm

12 volt Conversion Comparison (New Post)

Post by Cliff »

After years of living with problems with my 6 volt generator I am planning on converting my R50US to 12 volts. I am now trying to decide on which system to purchase. I am trying to decide between the Benchmark system and the Power Dynamo. So far I am happy with my magneto ignition so I like the the solution offered by Benchmark. My only concerns are it still has brushes and the regulator appears to need a charged battery or it will fail. I also like that it is all contained in the engine like the original. On the other hand I like that the Power Dynamo is brushless, will work without a battery at all and the regulator is mounted in a cool place. I am not sure if I want to convert the ignition since the magneto system should be very reliable. If anyone has recent experience with either solution I would like to here your opinion. Also if there are other solutions that I have not discovered I would love to here more.

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jrapose
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:26 pm

PowerDynamo sells them...

Post by jrapose »

The company in Berlin sells an Alternator only system.... I have never sold one, or nor do I carry them.... I just can not justify that much money for an Alternator only system.... You might try Flying Pot... He has a alternator conversion system... it sounds pretty good...

Joel Rapose
PowerDynamo Importer
Chester Cal.
Joel Rapose
Powerdynamo Importer USA
http://rapose.biz/

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Cliff
Posts: 55
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:45 pm

Thanks

Post by Cliff »

Thanks, I guess I could just install the alternator part and save the ignition conversion, if the wiring would allow it.

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c8h18
Posts: 99
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA

Benchmark System

Post by c8h18 »

I purchased and installed the BM alternator system and have had it in the bike for the last four years. I have found it to be very reliable. I was restoring the entire bike at the time so to convert the rest of the components to 12V was not a problem (lights and sockets). The only component I did not swap out was the horn. You do not need a new wiring harness with this system which is a plus. The directions are very complete as well. I found the install to be easy and I wrench with my thumbs. I coupled the unit to a 12V AGM Bike Master battery. The Bike Master Batteries come in blue. I rattle canned mine black and put a Bosch sticker on it.

As for the generator light on the headlight nacelle. I converted it to a high beam indicator. So when my "brights" are on the little orange light is illuminated. It's kind of gimmickee, I know.

As for riding, I have thousands of miles on the unit and I ride the bike well into the rev band all the time. I would say the unit is darn near bullet proof. Remember that this conversion is an alternator not a generator so you will need a decent 12V battery. As I noted above, I used a Bike Master but there are plenty out there that are very good. This is my experience with the unit, good luck whatever you decide.

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jrapose
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:26 pm

Still way too much money for just an alternator

Post by jrapose »

The alternator is nice...but a very expensive nice... and I know there are lots of alternator conversions that are much less money...Look at the ones that Flying Pot makes and sells... he uses easily located parts and his design makes good sence...it just works...his workmanship looks good too...I believe it uses automotive alternator parts and regulator...kool...

Years ago Cycle Works had a neat conversion bracket but that was another company at that time... I think if you look hard you might find someone that sells a bracket that uses a /6 or later alternator....both alternator and regulator have no idea what bike they are on...car, tractor or bike... I once worked on a R69 that had (I think) a Ural alternator and a Vape regulator (Europe) worked fine..

Joel
Joel Rapose
Powerdynamo Importer USA
http://rapose.biz/

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Cliff
Posts: 55
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:45 pm

That sounds like a great

Post by Cliff »

That sounds like a great install. I have a 69 so it has a high beam and a generator light. Does the bench mark conversion eliminate the charging light?

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c8h18
Posts: 99
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA

Agree with Joel.

Post by c8h18 »

I agree with Joel. BM's solution is expensive for just an alternator and the associated bits but I was restoring the entire bike and was not working with a budget per-se. I also wanted great reliability in a one-stop-shop as opposed to cobbling something together. Though I will go back to my original point which is that it is a very good unit that you will not have to fuss with once installed and if you did have a problem, parts and tech advice are readily available from Benchmark. It's all a matter of how you want to approach it.

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c8h18
Posts: 99
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA

Charging light

Post by c8h18 »

That sounds like a great install. I have a 69 so it has a high beam and a generator light. Does the bench mark conversion eliminate the charging light?

Cliff, my bike is a 69 R60/2 it only had the charging light so I converted it to a high beam indicator. It would appear that if you have both a charging light and high beam indicator that your charging light will now become available for a different purpose, if you choose. When I wired my unit up the charging light simply stayed on which didn't make any sense to me so I converted it to a high beam indicator as I previously noted.

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jrapose
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:26 pm

No need to change the wiring

Post by jrapose »

When you convert 6volts to 12 volts there is no need to change the wiring...just the bulbs and battery... leave the horn alone...it will just honk louder... won't hurt it at all... lots of batteries will fit the frame... I use a 12V7L-B when I do conversions...easy to locate and almost always on sale... they must be common to a small Honda or something quite popular....lots to choose from....and always less than $40.

The wiring is fine.... if you were going from 12 volts to 6 volts you would have problems...but 6 volts to 12 volts is easy....remember Voltage is pressure and Amperage is amount...yer safe.... if you build a conversion the alternator and the voltage regulator do not need to be the same brand...there are several different methods of regulating current but as long as the regulator understands what the alternator is giving it ....it will work... actually pretty easy stuff... it is the regulator that determines what the alternator produces...a normal GM alternator can easily produce up to 300 volts...for a very short time..oops.. When I built a GM alternator for my stock Model A Ford I found a 6 volt positive ground regulator for the alternator and it now produces 6 volts positive ground...works neat.
It is just setting up a combination that you want..... also remember... a modern alternator will not charge any more than the battery needs... it just won't...so if you have a full battery all it will charge is the few amps it will take...no matter what rated capacity it says on the case.... that number is what it will totally produce if needed... no need for a 100 amp alternator on a bike that will only
use 15 amps with the lights on and your heated vest on... also when it is not charging there is no load on the motor... an alternator is an electromagnet thing... no need, no drag... MUCH better than a generator that always has a drag on the motor..

Joel
PowerDynnamo Importer
Chester Calif.

Joel Rapose
Powerdynamo Importer USA
http://rapose.biz/

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jrapose
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:26 pm

Why the charge light ?

Post by jrapose »

Maybe I can clear up some of the confusion as to why you need that light..( resistance in that line)...

The voltage regulator has several hot wires... one is directly to the battery...so it knows the state of charge in the battery... the other is thru the key switch thru a low resistance line..(charging light ) What the regulator now is able to know is the difference between a full battery and line voltage...that difference tells the voltage regulator what is needed to bring the bikes battery up to full charge...it now sends a current equal to what is needed to one of the rings on the alternator rotor that causes a electromagnetic current to be built in the rotors coils....that causes the coils to produce current that goes to the voltage regulator to charge the battery exactly what it needs... So that indicator bulb is needed to show the difference between a full battery and line voltage in the system... if the bulb burns out, it quits charging... too large a bulb and it charges too much....

Things to Remember:

An Ampmeter goes inline with the circuit and ALL the current must pass thru that meter to be accurate...could cause a fire if more current passes than the gauge is designed for...

A Voltmeter is just a measurement of pressure... so it can tag in anywhere...and goes to ground.. electrical pressure is always equal throughout the system... (or should be)...much better and safer to use a voltmeter... a 12 volt system usually charges at 13.5 to 14.5 volts...to charge a 12 volt battery....kinda like pumping up da tank..

Joel
Joel Rapose
Powerdynamo Importer USA
http://rapose.biz/

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