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Fuel System Purge
- Darryl.Richman
- Posts: 2138
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
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Welcome! Sounds like you
Fuel System Purge
I could clearly see crap/debris in the micro fuel filters so I drained the tank, cleaned the filters and hoses, found a bunch of debris in the petcock and in its screen that I cleaned and today will take off the tank and flush it as well. As a just in case I have removed the carb on one side and taken it apart. It appears clean but I am going to put it in an Ultrasonic Cleaner with Simple Green and then reasemble. To go this far and not do that just didn't make sense to me although these are the first Bings I have ever worked on.
I should add that the carbs were fully rebuilt (by Phil at Max BMW) last June and the entire fuel system hose-wise had been upgraded as well. Really nice stuff. But I do not see cleaning or flushing the tank as part of the service and certainly having close to the same fuel in her for close to 2 years is not a good thing. Actually a shame that was not done at the same time.
Any pointers for me about re-assembly? I'm basically going to do one carb at a time, count how many times each jet and adjustment should be screwed in and go from there. If the bike does not run right (she was sputtering a bit which prompted this cleaning) I can always start from scratch and use a TwinMax that I have. Thanks.
ps: when I figure out how to post a picture I will of some of the junk I've found so far.
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol, 1991 Honda XR250L
Fuel System Purge
Hopefully I'll be able to dial-in the adjustments by just recording and duplicating where they were before I started this operation.
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol, 1991 Honda XR250L
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9040
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
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The Bing carbs on these bikes
https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=67726688@N00&q=bing
If nothing else, you could set them to the standard settings and go from there.
Darryl mentions the intake side vacuum gages...search the forum by putting EMPI in the upper left search box. Several of us have bought these devices for helping with carb balance. Barring that, you have to fall back on the old shorting techniques to get a good balance.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
The tool Darryl talks about is a Uni-sync
I would not get too carried away with cleaning the inside of the tank.... I would use a good quality floor cleaner... and if it is a real problem you could always slush the tank with Glyptol to reseal it..
Joel (old autoshop teacher)
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DON'T PULL THAT PLUG
If you have electronic ignition you must ground the plug... or the plug wire...to prevent damage. Much easier to use a Uni-sync
Joel
- Darryl.Richman
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Joel, about Glyptol... I have
You may be correct...
Welcome! Sounds like you
Already finished one carb: disassemble, cleaning in Ultrasonic Cleaner (Simple Green), hand polished, reassembled and just put it back on the bike. Looks stunning if you can find beauty in an inanimate object.
Two (2) Related Questions:
1) do you guys turn your petcock off and let the carb drain dry when you turn it off? Or maybe just when you are not going to use her for awhile?
2) previous owner recommended using High Test/93 Octane. Manual says use Regular (not octane listing). Of course that 1969 regular. What do you guys think?
What's the deal with replying so that your post continues in the same historical order?
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol, 1991 Honda XR250L
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9040
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
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I think the general
Another thing that most recommend is to shut off the petcock when you near your final destination, say after finishing a local run for the day or when you're heading to a gas station for refueling. Do this about a block or so before engine shut down. If you have clear fuel filters you can even see the fuel level drop in them as the fuel is consumed in the bowl. The idea is that once stopped, the engine heat tends to expand the fuel in the bowl and it can spill out or flood the cylinder. This is especially troublesome at fuel stops. While tickling the carbs for starting is essentially flooding the carb, doing that in conjunction with this heat-related fuel expansion can make restarting difficult. BTDT.
The R60/2 is a relatively low compression bike, 7.5:1. You can probably get away with the lowest grade of gas. That said, you don't want any pinging, so if you run regular and you hear the telltale sounds of pinging, bump to the next grade of gas. If you end up needing the highest octane to avoid pinging, you probably have combustion chamber deposits which artificially increase the compression ratio.
As for the posting order, I think that is the way the forum is set up...you can change it from oldest first to newest first using the feature at the bottom of the page.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.