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The trans has a nice click when up shifting between 1/2 and 2/3. 3/4 has a click/grind if you don't let the motor wind down really far. I have tried shifting it at lots of different speeds and rpms. It shifts ok, but is not quite right. It has 33k miles on it not a bad time for a complete service. I would like to check the the under shift and over shift bolt adjustment and upgrade to eccentric shift fork bushings.
I am particular when it comes to mechanical stuff working 100%. The 3/4 shift will detract from the overall riding experience. My r50/2 had the trans rebuilt at Beemer Worx in Tuscon and the shifting felt great in all the gears. I have everything apart and a whole winter to work on the bike. Once it is done, it will provide a few decades of trouble free service.
For the second round of tools, I bought the shim plate, the engine and trans how to videos, shim kit, the input shaft holder, the mold a gauge, steel parallels, sweet vintage depth gauge, flange puller, ect..
** Edit: The first round of tools came today. I can get the swing arm and final drive done to make a roller. Then I can start disassembling the engine. **
Thanks again for the help,
Did the factory ever scratch numbers on the connecting rods?
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
The slingers were full but not overly full. It was worth tearing the bike down. I am cleaning everything and waiting for parts. Can't wait to see the look on my wife's face when the engine case comes out of the oven. Hahaha.
I am trying to verify the machine had never been apart. I am 99% sure it hasn't been. If the number 78 was engraved on the con rod it supports it. I forgot to measure the pistons before I dropped them off at the machinist. I should have seen if the cylinders were on the stock bore.
Did the factory use a mix of bearings? I found mostly FAG and a few SKF bearings.
Thanks again for the help,
Got all the parts back. Crank and camshaft are prepped and in the freezer. I am ready to put the bottom end together on Friday. I sent the crank to Scotties Workshop and the bearings checked out OK. It got new wrist pin bushings and they got sized to the wrist pins. The cylinders are on the stock bore and the piston to cylinder clearance is .002.
The breather plate on the cam gear had a loose dowel. I think I dodge a bullet on this one. It is the two pin 6mm version. I am working to come up with a solution. I might be able to get an old stock one or have the old one welded.
I have one question. I lost the orientation for the oil baffle and wavy washer in the main seal. Can anyone tell me how they are situated in the rear bearing carrier?
You can look in the parts book. Table 2 in this one: https://www.bmw-einzylinder.de/Start/ti ... 961_US.pdf
The oil baffle is installed with the raised edge to the rear of the engine, away from the bearing.
I have the orientation. I just wanted to be sure that the oil baffle goes inside of the main seal not on the outside. The more I look at it the more it makes sense. It is unusual that the oil seal lip rides on the flywheel not the crank.
Yes it is tight at .002. the Barrington book calls for .003. Its hard to imagine the motor would be tighter than factory spec with 33k miles on the clock. The cylinder and pistons looked great so it may remain a mystery.
The only thing I have left to sort is the breather plate.
Here are some pictures. Everyone loves pictures....