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A few tuning questions...

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jwonder
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Re: A few tuning questions...

Post by jwonder »

I think you can loosen the final drive, pull the driveshaft back, pull the flange off the back of the gearbox and change it in place. Hopefully you don’t have to pull the gearbox out.
James Wonder
Vice President, Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners
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Long Island, New York

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schrader7032
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Re: A few tuning questions...

Post by schrader7032 »

I thought that flange was a mo-fo to get off...needs a special tool.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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Bikesmith01
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Re: A few tuning questions...

Post by Bikesmith01 »

Hey Guys!
Got an update for you:

So, yes, I had put the transmission output seal in backwards. I put it in the way that seemed logical. Contain all the slippery-juice within the transmission, right? I understand now why that was backwards. I appreciate the tip that I (maybe) could have changed the seal without pulling the transmission, but I've had this thing apart and back together again so many time that I can do it in my sleep now. Pulling the transmission was only another hour or so of work. Seal is in in correct orientation now and the transmission (and the whole bike) is 100% leak free.

As for the timing, I checked it at full rev and found that it stopped close to, but not at, the fruh mark. It was able to get maybe 2-3 degrees past the mark. I pulled the advance again and found that the rotor had worn a little into where it stops on the plate.
IMG_20210805_143540242~2.jpg
I did a little welding to build that spot up and filed it back to flat. Timing is now flawless. No differential timing at all (well... maybe a tenth of a degree ;) ). Static timing is perfect. Bike starts first kick every time. And the dynamic timing is spot on. Advance ramps up exactly according to spec and stops exactly at F.

The tip about adjusting the throttle cable balance by RPM was exactly what I needed. I got the two sides to basically exactly the same RPM just as they're coming off idle and it did the trick perfectly. The engine is now butter smooth all the time. Idles perfectly, glides onto the throttle with no vibration, runs up to full chat and back down without a single hiccup. Oh man, I love this bike.

I even got my brake lever reach sorted. I just did it the way bicycle brake levers adjust reach. Drilled and tapped a small hole through the lever mount and put in a set screw that sticks out a little to hold the lever at perfect reach. Lovely.

The only problem I have now is that there's nothing left to do :lol: . I've had so much fun rebuilding this thing over the last year that now that I'm done I'm just a tiny bit disappointed. Good thing it's so much fun to ride, too! I just got back from a 35 mile ride during which the bike was completely flawless. I guess it's time for a new project.

-Jon
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Jon the Bikesmith
1959 BMW R60
1940 Royal Enfield WD-C/O
1942 Chevy 3/4-ton special Flatbed
1985 BMW K100RS
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skyler.robbins
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Re: A few tuning questions...

Post by skyler.robbins »

Glad to hear this Jon!
I had the same problem you did.. everything on my R60/2 runs perfect.. so I had to buy another project bike, hahaha

jimstravlin
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Re: A few tuning questions...

Post by jimstravlin »

I have had the transmission problem. Early transmission had speedo gear with no groves cut in the top smooth part, the part on top of the gear when the cable goes in. the later speedo gears had a grooved channel cut in that part of the gear to channel the oil back into the transmission. Had the problem on a 1965 R50/2 that had the old gear. Call Vech and buy the new speedo gear with the groves and the problem will most likely go away... Jim

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