Valve Spring Constants R11

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Diablo
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:39 am

R11 crankshaft

Post by Diablo »

Ian thank you . It seems my engine is a mix o different series parts .Th engine cases are serie 2 ( as the frame ) , but it seems the crankshaft is from S4 or 5 . It really look like the photo . The rods are 208 mm long , and the breather is on the camshaft , not on the crankshaft as your 1rst photo .
Also , on the crankshaft are stamped some letters : 56.S4&5 on one side , and 365 on the other side of the central part of the crankshaft . So ????
I have download the owner manual and the parts manual , but they are of poor quality .
Cheers
Diablo
Diablo

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Diablo
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:39 am

R11 crankshaft

Post by Diablo »

I brought my damage crankshaft to a repair shop , they did not even want to work on it , it had been so badly repaired previously , crankpin welded .... So I had no choice but to find a new one . RRC offered (LOL) me a reconditionned one , I bought it and have just received it . Expensive but seems to be a nice professionnal job . They joined a dimensions report . I ordered new pistons and shall rebore the cylinders .I can now go further on the rebuild of my engine ; when I cleaned it , there was oil mud in the crankcase !!
Concerning the valves timing , some engines need clearance 0 at the valves , others need a certain gap . For the R11 timing setting , is there any clearance to leave on the valves ?
Cheers
JC
Diablo

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dBDawg
Posts: 57
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:04 pm

valve clearance

Post by dBDawg »

I brought my damage crankshaft to a repair shop , they did not even want to work on it , it had been so badly repaired previously , crankpin welded .... So I had no choice but to find a new one . RRC offered (LOL) me a reconditionned one , I bought it and have just received it . Expensive but seems to be a nice professionnal job . They joined a dimensions report . I ordered new pistons and shall rebore the cylinders .I can now go further on the rebuild of my engine ; when I cleaned it , there was oil mud in the crankcase !!
Concerning the valves timing , some engines need clearance 0 at the valves , others need a certain gap . For the R11 timing setting , is there any clearance to leave on the valves ?
Cheers
JC



I google translated this from the manual: anyone want to confirm?

Page 42

C) Adjustment of the valve clearance: The valve clearance between the valve stem and the tappet or pressure screw, which should be about 0.1 mm when the engine is cold, must also be adjusted from time to time. For this purpose, a narrow strip of a letter-paper sheet is best used, since this corresponds roughly to the strength.

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Ian R11
Posts: 207
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:00 pm

Valve clearance set cold from

Post by Ian R11 »

Valve clearance set cold from my info is 0.05 to 0.1mm for both inlet and exhaust. I have just found some hand written technical info from the 70's my father used. I don't know if it helps with the original question in the post but it indicates valve spring lengths, outer 42mm, inner 38mm.

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Diablo
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:39 am

Timing mistake

Post by Diablo »

Hi folks
I have finish my engine rebuilt , put it back in the frame , prime the oil circuit on a roller bench , open the fuel tap , full the carb ,kick , kick , kick and ...nothing . I thought an ignition timing problem , check it , it looks fine , Kick......no response from the engine . Recheck the ign , OK . I put the bike back on my working bench , take off the left head engage 2nd gear , turn the rear wheel and look at the valves working . I was not happy with what I saw ; the inlet valve stay open for some mm when the piston move up after DDC . The timing is wrong ! ( one tooth wrong ? ) . My question : is it possible to take off the camshaft without opening the engine ? I think I should maintain the valves open with some aluminium shims to free the valves lifters for them not to touch the cams , and extract the camshaft . Is the camshaft hold in place only by the screw on the top side of the casing ? Last question , is it possible to do it with the engine in situ ?
Thank for your answers .
Diablo

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deyoung2837
Posts: 42
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am

Who did you source your

Post by deyoung2837 »

Who did you source your crankshaft from?
Is RRC the same as www.rrc-tuning.de?

Thank you,

Lee

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Ian R11
Posts: 207
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:00 pm

I would try remove the cam

Post by Ian R11 »

I would try remove the cam with it in the bike. Never done it but I think should be possible like you say. The bolt is the only thing holding the cam front bearing. You will need to extract the oil pump drive shaft and gear first. The difficult bit maybe engaging the cam back into the rear bearing, but it's not difficult on the bench so maybe will be easy? Again engaging the oil pump shaft may be tricky but removing the oil pump from below will sort it if necessary. I guess there could be some good use of the French language involved!

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Diablo
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:39 am

Timing issue

Post by Diablo »

Yes , I got the crankshaft from RRC .
I have taken off the gearbox and the cylinders so I can free the valves lifters . I have unscrew all the nuts joining the two halves cases , I can now move the upper case enough to free the camshaft gear ( my timing is gear driven ) . I move the gear for one tooth and check the timing . I had marked the flywheel at TDC , 1mm and 9mm BTDC so I can control without the piston in the cylinder ( which is no more in the engine ) . Bad news , the inlet valve open before the 9mm mark ! I shall recheck with one tooth back . i am afraid my camshaft does not match with the new crankshaft i have fitted , and I have to move the gear on the camshaft ; that will not be easy because the camshaft does not want to come freely , another gremlin from the previous owner ??
Concerning the French language , do you mean the Cambronne word ( m...e ) ? Yes , great use of it .
Cheers
Diablo

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Ian R11
Posts: 207
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:00 pm

If you have a new crank do

Post by Ian R11 »

If you have a new crank do you also have new timing gears on the crank, cam or idler (intermediate) gear? You seem to have difficulty with tightness of the cam and I am wondering if this is due to any new gears. I fitted new (polyamide) gears on a gear driven engine and found some machining was necessary to get it spinning freely in mesh. The new gear had too large an outer circumference.
Also the intermediate gear is mounted on a bolt that is also a small cam, various amounts of cam are available and used to get a good mesh between the gears.

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Diablo
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:39 am

R 11 rebuilt ebgine

Post by Diablo »

Finally , I did not get the camshaft out . I checked and rechecked the valves timing ; it appears it had one teeth out of the correct timing .
I had scripted marks on the flywheel at TDC and FBTDC . I controlled again these marks were OK with the piston position in the cylinder , it was right . I reassemble the engine , put it back in the frame , with the gearbox ( but without the final drive ) and the engine started second kick . It seems to run fine , I have to test it on the move .
I also discovered that the gearbox gear which move the clutch plates did not engage on the 2 plates , which made the clutch slipping and made the kicking ineffective . I think this is due to the fact I have not the original crankshaft , nor the original flywheel . I solve the problem by lengthening the gears teethes by 8 mm ; I pressed an insert inside the original gear , machined the teethes , and TIG welded every teeth of the insert to the gear teethes . Now , it is OK .
Diablo

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