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1975 BMW R90S Restoration
Right Side Fuel Line Routing
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Progress
Anyway, after adding all the fluids yesterday ..... this morning I found the neutral switch on the bottom of the transmission was leaking. Luckily for me my local mechanic had a replacement but it wasn't easy. I had to remove the rear engine mount bolt, knock out the spacer then reach up and in to remove the switch. The new switch went in and seems to be holding up fine.
I also had a small leak on the two front brake calipers. I can't tell if its leaking from the bleeder valve or the line connection so I cleaned it up and will check it again in the am. Has anyone used any kind of teflon tape to help secure those (threads) connections? I rebuilt the front brake master cylinder and thought that would be my issue but so far so good. My fingers are crossed.
So .... with the battery connected today I turned on the ignition. All the lights (hi-low-running) worked. Both the front and rear brake lights also worked and the bike turned over. Those are all good signs. Tomorrow I plan on adding fuel to see if it will start.
More tomorrow.
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- schrader7032
- Posts: 9056
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
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I've read where people use
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
leak
I was wondering what was on the old switch when I pulled it out. To me it looked like anti-seize on the threads. My local mechanic said they usually start leaking at the connection between the bolt and the plastic and not the threads.
FYI .... there is a shop here in Richmond VA called Moto Europa. The guy who runs the shop used to work for a place called Velocity where they bought, serviced, restored and sold antique/vintage motorcycles. It was a great shop but didn't survive the hard times. Anyway, Dave Carmean is the owner and he knows antique/vintage motorcycles. In fact right now he is restoring (frame up restorations) three, not one .... not two ..... but three R90S's. The problem for me is I am further along with mine than his first. So every day I get something accomplished I run over there to see where he is.
Without help from VBMWMO and from Dave this restoration would take forever. Someone needs to write a maintenance book just for the R90-R90S. Filtering out all the other models in the one book I do have is a PITA.
Thread Sealant
Any item that I have that has fluid in and it has a plug gets pipe dope added (unless it has a o-ring seal) gasket or not. I like RectorSeal
but any parts house has thread sealant. You can get liquid teflon if you like. If you caliper bleed screw is leaking pul it out and you may need to use a Q-tip with some valve grinding compound on the tip and go in and "lap it a bit"use steel wool on the bread screw. Then add a small amount of dope if you please. If you are sealing something that does't get removed Lock Tight is also a good sealant (Blue 242) If you use "Red" you'll need a touch to heat it up to get out what ever you sealed.
Don't remember any problems with the neutral switch. I'm not a hi-mileage airhead guy but put over 100.000 between the "S" and "RS"
If you get a new switch that should last the life of the bike.
We've talked before on service books. I have like three of the main ones. Also you can go back and research what other club members have done on this site, BMWMOA, Airheads. I'm not a RA member but I'm sure it's the same. The more you have ahead of time the better. I know your kind of under the gun and want to kick butt on your build.
The Best!
video
https://youtu.be/RP3ZJaLhses
https://youtu.be/MNjWOazvXM8
Cables
Kieth .... thanks for all the photos. I will be looking at them in detail today and tomorrow.
cables and gas cap
I also tried to install the gas cap. While I was pushing the cap down and inserting the pin that holds on the cap the rivet/plug popped out and fell into the tank. The rivet was easy to get out but the washer was not. So .... from advise from a friend I replaced the rivet with a screw that tightened right up and seems to be working fine. Having a screw will also make it easier to replace the cork gasket if it doesn't seal up.
Next step .... install the petcocks. Connect the fuel lines, add fuel and fire it up.
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Video
Sorry for the erratic throttle control.
https://youtu.be/kNmd-INhp7I
Im going to hook up the front turn signals then work out all the bugs before I put on the new fairing.