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1975 BMW R90S Restoration

The place to discuss the R 90 S as well as the R90S Worldnet archives!
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ksiemon
Posts: 30
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:21 am

Right Side Fuel Line Routing

Post by ksiemon »

The correct way to run your right line..............The site now will let me attach "one" photo!!!??? something is screwed!? did a bunch before on the rim arrows............

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skychs
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Location: Richmond VA
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Progress

Post by skychs »

JakeF ..... you are correct. The wires and cables are a mess. Every time I add something it all gets rearranged. Grrrrrr Im sure it will be a never ending process.

Anyway, after adding all the fluids yesterday ..... this morning I found the neutral switch on the bottom of the transmission was leaking. Luckily for me my local mechanic had a replacement but it wasn't easy. I had to remove the rear engine mount bolt, knock out the spacer then reach up and in to remove the switch. The new switch went in and seems to be holding up fine.

I also had a small leak on the two front brake calipers. I can't tell if its leaking from the bleeder valve or the line connection so I cleaned it up and will check it again in the am. Has anyone used any kind of teflon tape to help secure those (threads) connections? I rebuilt the front brake master cylinder and thought that would be my issue but so far so good. My fingers are crossed.

So .... with the battery connected today I turned on the ignition. All the lights (hi-low-running) worked. Both the front and rear brake lights also worked and the bike turned over. Those are all good signs. Tomorrow I plan on adding fuel to see if it will start.

More tomorrow.









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1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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schrader7032
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I've read where people use

Post by schrader7032 »

I've read where people use JBWeld to seal all around the plastic parts on the switch. Supposedly even the OEM switches can leak.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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skychs
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leak

Post by skychs »

I've read where people use JBWeld to seal all around the plastic parts on the switch. Supposedly even the OEM switches can leak.

I was wondering what was on the old switch when I pulled it out. To me it looked like anti-seize on the threads. My local mechanic said they usually start leaking at the connection between the bolt and the plastic and not the threads.

FYI .... there is a shop here in Richmond VA called Moto Europa. The guy who runs the shop used to work for a place called Velocity where they bought, serviced, restored and sold antique/vintage motorcycles. It was a great shop but didn't survive the hard times. Anyway, Dave Carmean is the owner and he knows antique/vintage motorcycles. In fact right now he is restoring (frame up restorations) three, not one .... not two ..... but three R90S's. The problem for me is I am further along with mine than his first. So every day I get something accomplished I run over there to see where he is.

Without help from VBMWMO and from Dave this restoration would take forever. Someone needs to write a maintenance book just for the R90-R90S. Filtering out all the other models in the one book I do have is a PITA. :-)
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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ksiemon
Posts: 30
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:21 am

Thread Sealant

Post by ksiemon »

First off DO NOT USE tape! That is used mostly for pipe threads. I know I've used miles of it in my career as well as pipe dope.
Any item that I have that has fluid in and it has a plug gets pipe dope added (unless it has a o-ring seal) gasket or not. I like RectorSeal
but any parts house has thread sealant. You can get liquid teflon if you like. If you caliper bleed screw is leaking pul it out and you may need to use a Q-tip with some valve grinding compound on the tip and go in and "lap it a bit"use steel wool on the bread screw. Then add a small amount of dope if you please. If you are sealing something that does't get removed Lock Tight is also a good sealant (Blue 242) If you use "Red" you'll need a touch to heat it up to get out what ever you sealed.
Don't remember any problems with the neutral switch. I'm not a hi-mileage airhead guy but put over 100.000 between the "S" and "RS"
If you get a new switch that should last the life of the bike.

We've talked before on service books. I have like three of the main ones. Also you can go back and research what other club members have done on this site, BMWMOA, Airheads. I'm not a RA member but I'm sure it's the same. The more you have ahead of time the better. I know your kind of under the gun and want to kick butt on your build.

The Best!

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skychs
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video

Post by skychs »

Let me see if this works ....... two videos of the start up.

https://youtu.be/RP3ZJaLhses


https://youtu.be/MNjWOazvXM8
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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skychs
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Cables

Post by skychs »

So the bike is running. Huge step today but ......... I'm so unhappy with all the cables and wires I have decided (while the front end is still off) to redo it all. Its all together but its ugly. Back to the garage ....... Grrrrrrrr

Kieth .... thanks for all the photos. I will be looking at them in detail today and tomorrow.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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ksiemon
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Cables

Post by ksiemon »

If I can help just give me a call. Can also take more pic's if you need.

Karl

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skychs
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cables and gas cap

Post by skychs »

I think I finally got the cables sorted out. I tried my hardest to get the best "flow" that I could. As time goes on I will see how it all works out. Details Details Details.

I also tried to install the gas cap. While I was pushing the cap down and inserting the pin that holds on the cap the rivet/plug popped out and fell into the tank. The rivet was easy to get out but the washer was not. So .... from advise from a friend I replaced the rivet with a screw that tightened right up and seems to be working fine. Having a screw will also make it easier to replace the cork gasket if it doesn't seal up.

Next step .... install the petcocks. Connect the fuel lines, add fuel and fire it up.
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1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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skychs
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Video

Post by skychs »

First test run was fine. Small fuel leak in one of the petcocks but its slowing down.

Sorry for the erratic throttle control.

https://youtu.be/kNmd-INhp7I

Im going to hook up the front turn signals then work out all the bugs before I put on the new fairing.
1966 R60/2, 1967 R69S, 1975 R90S, 2020 R1250GSA

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