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Morgan Carbtune
- schrader7032
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It would appear that the
On the /2, there is no vacuum takeoff unless you decide to drill the carb body and install one. Instead, I've used these devices, one for each carb:
http://www.dealparts.com/mm5/merchant.m ... COMPONENTS
Made a big difference in the idle and performance of the engine once I got things balanced.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Carb synch
I am not familiar with these devices you mention and could not find how they work on their website. Since I will need two of them, can you give me a brief review of their operation?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
- schrader7032
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Dan - I bought two of the
I bought two of the items from the link that I provided. No other adapters were needed for my R69S. Basically, I removed the air tubes from the filter to the carb inlet. With the rubber collars provided, the metering device slips over the inlet to each carb. Before I do any of this, I ride the bike for 15-20 miles. Once the meters are fitted, I restart the bike and then go through the process of setting mixture, idle speed, and cable tension. Each meter has a small scale with a floating needle, representing the vacuum or air flow...I don't know which...doesn't really matter. But looking at the needle on the scale, I adjust each carb to have the same scale reading.
As I said, the bike idles and runs smoother down the road now. I had tried the shorting technique and/or listening to get the same sound side to side, but obviously I was off somewhat.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Tuning
Will the adjusters work on more modern bikes also?
By the way, I also have a '69S I bought in need of a lot of work. The engine runs, the numbers match, but someone put a /5 fender and rim on it. I might be asking you for info when I start to work on it.
Thanks again,
Dan
- schrader7032
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I would think that will work
As long as you can create a good seal, it should work fine.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
- Bruce Frey
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You can make a carb balancing
When I have some extra time I plan to give this a try.
Bruce
- schrader7032
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Bruce - There are
There are instructions for making such a manometer on the Airheads website...one can probably google this and find other examples.
These will work great on carbs that have vacuum takeoffs. The original post was regarding "vintage twins" which I take to be pre 1970 bikes. In that case, those Bings have no vacuum takeoff ports. Hence the resorting to other metering devices or the tried-n-true shorting method.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
R-26 compression?
- schrader7032
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I read on the Mono forum that
In a similar discussion, 8.3 atmospheres were mentioned which is about 120psi...seems better.
Edit: OK, I tried something, but it may just be coincidental. For my R100/7, the average normal compression pressure I found listed in my Haynes was 134 psi. For grins, the CR for the bike is 9:0 to 1. With the piston at bottom dead center, the pressure within the combustion chamber is nominally atmospheric or 14.7 psi. Mulitplying by the compression ratio of 9, I get 132.3...pretty close to the average above.
So, for the R26, with a CR of 7.5 to 1, I get about 110 psi. The Haynes manual listed a swing from 123 (poor) to 145 (good) for the /7. That's about 8%. So, the range could be nearly 120 to 100 for the R26.
A crude approach...might provide some general numbers??
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.