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bead blasting cylinders
bead blasting cylinders
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- Posts: 307
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:12 am
I would suggest
Or better still, vapor
Ira Agins
Santa Fe, NM
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2013 10:29 am
vapor blasting cylinders
It gives a superior finish over soda blasting
No metal is removed or damaged
Contact me if you have any questions or concerns on vapor blasting
Dan Vitaletti
vaporblastsolutions@gmail.com
(505) 946-7097
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Vapor Blasting in KY-Ohio-Tenn area
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- Posts: 98
- Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:21 pm
I have had some alloy engine
Abrassive Blasting/Cleaning Cylinders
Abrasives and engines do not mix. By definition, abrasive blasting is, well, using an abrasive around the engine. You really need to be careful to; know what the critical areas are, know how to protect them without damaging them, know how to clean all of the abrasive out when complete.
As capebretonmarkbmw said, soda blasting may be a good idea for you at home but, if you are okay with the mess. You can just blow everything on the ground and sweep it up but, it that's not going to work, by the time you build the device, build a containment, and buy the tools to make a soda blaster, you could probably help the economy and make a friend who is an expert that will do a great job for you.
Each part has it particular hazards so, cylinders only;
1. Plug the oil ports. Plug not tape. Seal them completely against the grit and the pressure.
2. Plug the cylinder bore. Good painters/masking tape may be adequate for this if you stuff a rag in there to keep the tape in place.
3. Remove the pushrod tubes so that the bores can be easily cleaned and do not retain any abrasive.
4. Blast away with the lowest pressure you can get away with. This is to prevent the beads from embedding in the aluminum.
5. Rinse thoroughly with a high volume of lightly soapy water and soft/stiff bristled brush to remove any embedded abrasive.
5. Remove all the plugs and tape, rinse again. I mean really rinse and brush clean.
6. Dry with air, blow drier is good.
7. Lightly oil the cylinder bore iron to prevent rust.
I don't want to discourage anyone from doing work at home. I just want to insure you put serious effort to clean using magnifying glasses, and real elbow grease to insure there is no abrasive left before installing.
I hope this helps someone.
John
55 - R50, 06-R1200RT, 74 Ducati 750GT, 57 - R69, 78 - R100S
Running the parts through a
Aloha, Good call Steevo,
Good call Steevo, "like automotive machine shops use". They usually have training on what media and how to remove it from the parts. A good rule of thumb is, if the shop does not have a written procedure for abrasive blasting for each type of job; engine block, cylinder heads, crankshaft, etc., you will have to use you own judgement on whether they are qualified to do the work. If they do have a procedure, you can run it by a trusted professional or even the manufacturer of the abrasive media to get some input. The manufacturer has the greatest motivation to get it right.
So, a procedure should specifically call out the following: abrasive material for each job (usually based on the part or material the part is made of) , size of the abrasive material, maximum use cycle of the abrasive media (even the best media will fracture and become sharp edged or dust and become ineffective or a contaminant), type of machine to be used (pressure or suction side delivery) and maximum pressures.
Awright, let's get back to restoring our bikes. Can't sit around the coffee pot all day.
Thanks all,
John
55 - R50, 06-R1200RT, 74 Ducati 750GT, 57 - R69, 78 - R100S