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That sounds like a good option. I ride my /2 onto the lift with enough momentum to
hit the stop; never try to power it up the ramp -I know it's slick. Klaus sleeps there.
If I work on my GSA, I always push it up as I'll surely lose footing & drop it someday.
I have scrap carpet remnants which goes under the motor area and centerstand,
giving my centerstands traction to lever the bikes up.
Why didn't I get one years ago, I hope there is a bit of wisdom mixed in there somewhere.
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Things to consider:
1. It takes up A LOT of floor space. I hope you have the shop/garage real-estate. It does have casters.
2. The stock wheel clamp is almost useless. Drill the holes and use the $39 roll-in wheel clamp. Works great.
3. USE the lift stop/locks. Don't rely on the hydraulics.
4. Check the jack fluid. Mine was a little low.
5. Make sure you don't let anything roll under the table, or you may tip the bike (don't ask me how I know, luckily I caught it).
6. I looked for a used, heavy duty lift but never found one. I'll bet it would host much more than $300 to build one unless you had all of the steel for free.
Los Alamos, NM
CBX; KZ1300; Alazzurra; R75/5; SR500
Would something like this work? I worry about the oil pan: Thanks!
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Good spot on the center stand, thanks. Will add those to the long list of things to replace...schrader7032 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 9:28 amI wouldn't use it because as you say you're worried about the oil pan. When I've worked on my R69S, I do one wheel at a time which I suppose slows things down. I notice that your rear wheel is very close to the ground when on the center stand. That suggests that the center stand stops are worn a bit. My tire is higher and I find that when on the center stand, I can open up the rear fender hinge and remove the rear tire out the back. When doing the front tire, I use a floor jack and put a little up pressure on the loop of the engine case guards...I guess that's a benefit of having them. That let's me get the front tire off and provides a little stability.
If you want to see a really nice bike lift, check out K&L, it is what most of the pro shops use around central texas.
Just something to consider.
Two features I like: 1) the front wheel chock. It's a "roll-on" type of chock which will hold the bike up by the front wheel so you can secure straps to the rear. It allows you to put a bike on the lift by yourself. 2) the removable rear wheel shelf. The last 1/3rd of the lift is a removable shelf that when removed - allows the back wheel to hang over the end of the lift provided you have supported the center of the bike (I have a scissor-lift block jack)
The u-shaped brace that captures the front tire is a bit wide for any of my bikes, but it works fine. I may modify that brace to fit my wheels more snugly but not too snug because it might make it harder to pull the bike out of the wheel chock when it's time to take the bike off the lift.The only thing I added to the lift were stick-on traction strips. Happy with this lift.