Sorry if this is the wrong area to post this. I'm replacing the clutch on my 1974 R90/6 and the bill is adding up fast. Does anyone have a clutch centering tool that I could purchase from you or even borrow it for a fee. I don't see myself doing this job again for a very long time.
Thanks
While it might make the job a bit easier, it's not really needed. I replaced the entire clutch on my /7 a number of years ago. I simply eyeballed the location of the clutch plate to get it in the center of the housing and so that I could see the point where the clutch rod touch the pressure plate. I then slid the transmission into place as far as it would go. With forward pressure on the transmission, I actuated the clutch which released pressure on the clutch disk. A few attempts at that and the transmission slid home.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Bit late to be replying but in case someone needs it in the future. No need for a clutch centering tool (mandrel), just loosely reassemble and centre the clutch plate as best you can. Choose a socket that fits closely between clutch plate and outer and run it round, so the gap is equal. Retighten and you're done, sorted me for the last 45 years on /6 and /7.
Charlie.
As an addendum to this process......Center the clutch by eye. A socket may be useful.
When guiding the spline into the mounted clutch assembly, go slowly and IF needed, remove and tweak the clutch disc slightly.
Upon sliding the transmission splines home, see if the transmission itself, can slide a bit fore and aft.
NOW, install the transmission connecting bolts SLIGHTLY LOOSE.
Either use the Kickstart to rotate the engine a bit..IN GEAR...OR, rotate the rear wheel (off the ground) a bit.
This will better center the clutch assembly with the transmission.
Ensure ALL IS SMOOTH.
Tighten those transmission mount bolts to the Correct Spec. After a ride or 2, doublecheck the aforementioned mount bolts for proper spec (YES, a Second time).