Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners

Your bearing holder will likely need to be replaced if it has any appreciable wear on it. Your picture isn’t clear enough to tell definitively but if you can feel a lip with your fingernail where the rear edge of the bearing sat, then it should be replaced. The rear bearing can theoretically move ax...

The carrier is a very very slight interference fit into the case. It doesn’t take much force to push it out. I made an aluminum push block on the lathe that is slightly smaller than the ID of the carrier, and has a shoulder on it to catch the edge of the carrier. I simply use about a foot long block...

I think the question of electronic systems vs the original magneto system is largely personal preference and intended use. I don’t have any strong feelings one way or the other except to mention a couple things. I only have experience with the PowerDynamo system which was frustrating to setup and ne...

It attaches to the little eyelet on the left rear corner of the factory stamped steel oil pan.
If you have a aftermarket aluminum deep sump pan I’m not sure there’s any attachment point on those.

1. The green paint on your upper fork tubes and pinch bolts is interesting, and hard to say why it’s there. I highly doubt wouldn’t have been on there from the factory for a civilian bike, and if these forks maybe were taken off an older war bike maybe an R66 or R71 they would have been blue gray or...

I’m assuming you have the old style carb tops, not lever tops? I believe that valve lapping paste is too abrasive for lapping the needle and seat. I’ve used Autosol as a lapping compound which is a metal polish and has very fine abrasives in it. If you need anything more aggressive than that to get ...

There is no overflow per-se on the Bings to the outside of the carb. When the fuel level rises too high it does and can go several places like out the air inlet for the main and idle jet circuit and then yes into the main air intake. But usually it dribbles pretty good out of the idle mixture screw ...

I wouldn’t worry about your sleeved cylinders. I’m definitely no expert on cylinder boring or sleeving but this method has been used plenty by reputable builders and machine shops. I’ve also heard claims of poor heat transfer but my guess is that these are claims with little to no evidence to back t...

Unfortunately I think you’re going to have to pull the head and cylinder to replace it. That kind of splitting can happen if the pushrod tube shoulders are too close to the engine case therefore squeezing the seals too much. But based on the looks of the one that’s not split they look about right, b...

Ray,
All you need to do is take two nuts, spin them on and tighten them against each other, then use the one closest to the block to spin out the stud.