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JCL'52-r67
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Joined: 01/06/2012
Posts: 25

We'll I got my rebuilt transmission back from Brooks Motor Works, and it looks great! I quickly started putting it all back together and realised I probably should have installed the shaft first.

Any ways I'm thinking the easiest way would be too undo the motor and move it up, install shaft, and bolt it back onto the frameoes this sound feasable?

Also found out that my Bing carbs aren't the stock carbs, there is an aluminum mount that they slide onto and clamp down on. I guess this means my new Bing seal kits and my $150 new intake tubes probably won't work! Ugh.

May have to do some modifiying to these intake tubes as the carbs sit further back.

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'52 R67/2
'78 R75
'77 930

Darryl.Richman
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VBMWMO #6285
Surf City, USA (Santa Cruz, CA)
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 2185
You can easily mount the

You can easily mount the final drive/shaft with the motor and trans in place on your plunger frame bike.

The secret is to move the rubber bung (dust seal) forward on the shaft and then unscrew the bell cover from the nose of the final drive. This cover has a left handed thread.

Once you have moved the bell cover forward, you can bend the u-joint outward and mount the final drive in the frame. Once you have the guide post in place, holding the final drive and the frame together, you can rotate the final drive so the nose is under the fender. Then line up the drive shaft flange dowels with the holes in the rubber Hardy disk on the transmission output flange, and straighten the final drive to push the dowels home.

Although the bell cover has a hole for a pin wrench, there is no need to tighten it more than hand tight.

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R68
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...remove the rear wheel and

...remove the rear wheel and fender; orientate the flange pins and the Hardy disk holes vertically; rotate the final drive on the plunger axel counterclockwise; the driveshaft "moves" back just enough to allow the flange pins to engage in the Hardy disk holes...all this of course requires that the flange is properly positioned on the driveshaft...nice idea on the Sears strap wrench!...

JCL'52-r67
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shaft

Darryl.Richman wrote:

You can easily mount the final drive/shaft with the motor and trans in place on your plunger frame bike.

Thanks Darryl, but my final drive is still installed. So I'm guessing pulling the motor forward might be the easiest option, if even possible?

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'52 R67/2
'78 R75
'77 930

Darryl.Richman
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VBMWMO #6285
Surf City, USA (Santa Cruz, CA)
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 2185
No, I think it will still be

No, I think it will still be easier to do it the way R68 and I have suggested.

Remove the rear wheel, if installed. I think that will allow the final drive to rotate on the plunger. Install the driveshaft onto the splines at the final drive input -- careful, the pin that locks them together only goes through one way, and the splined joint will only allow the pin to go through if it is made in the correct orientation.

Then, push the nose of the final drive in towards the bike centerline and hold the driveshaft out. Rotate the transmission output flange as necessary to line up the driveshaft flange and Hardy disk, and bend the driveshaft u-joint straight. This should push the driveshaft home into the Hardy disk and make the final drive and driveshaft straight.

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JCL'52-r67
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Posts: 25
shaft

Thanks guys, got it all together!

Heck I maybe even trying to start it tomorrow.

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'52 R67/2
'78 R75
'77 930

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