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chrisrappl
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VBMWMO #6458
Raleigh, NC
Joined: 04/30/2011
Posts: 42

I have a 1956 R50 that is in need of a total restoration. It's a cool bike with the small Eber tailight (glass lens), single cross wheels, Veigel speedometer and early carbs. I'm thinking of having a little fun with this one, but don't want to do anything stupid in the process.

It was originally sold by Baucom BSA, BMW in Tokyo, Japan and has the brass dealer medallion on the rear fender. I'm sure that it was originally black, but at some point was repainted red.

I would appreceiate thoughts on the following ideas:

Avus Black, Dover White or Granada Red?

The rims are straight and true, but the chrome is poor. Replace, Rechrome or powder coat?

If I powdercoat the rims - Silver? Metallic Silver or maybe Granada Red:) ?

If the question above struck a nerve, this one may be considered heresy, but, here goes:

If I go with Granada Red, and if the powdercoater has a matching high-temp powder, what about powder coating the barrels red:) ?

Any other suggestions?

I need to find two parts before I start:

35/11 final drive (the existing housing has been repaired)

Carb slide (early version 1/24/45) seems to have a smaller float chamber and if I remember correctly a smaller slide and bore, but I could be wrong. I did try a slide from an R50/2 and it was too big. I would have thought that a 24 mm is a 24 mm, but...

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schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6494
As they say (just who is

As they say (just who is "they" anyway?), it's your bike so you can do what you want. I'm driven to patina and/or originality. So, my R69S shows it's warts from the past owners. It's not horrible...probably more of a 10-footer. On my R25/2, the little red-green cover for the generator-neutral light vibrated off and was destroyed. Sure, I bought a new one and it looks nice, but I still think that I just lost something that might have been 60 years old.

Powder coating the barrels red? I'm not too sure about that one...I think my eyes would be drawn to that and not see anything else. Never see it before, though, so you might be the first!!

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

anderson7585
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VBMWMO #7585
Houston, Texas
Joined: 07/24/2009
Posts: 340
Putting Powder on the barrels

Putting Powder on the barrels will retain heat, this comes up on my Norton Commando forum regularly and the concensus is "don't do it".

Vince

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1973 BMW R75/5 (LWB) "Griselda" (stock looking but with logical/practical improvements), 1971 Norton Commando "Commando Bizarro" (a truly strange custom project), 1936 BMW R2 "Ediltrudis" (stock, currently out getting a pro restoration). www.vinceandersononline.com

Bill7593
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VBMWMO #7593
Joined: 07/28/2009
Posts: 36
Powder coat

I commissioned Chris at Barrington Motor Works in NH to do some frame and front end repair on my R60/2 project as well as doing the powder coat. He favors powder coating the cylinders (black) over liquid paint and this is what I had done. I haven't started to run the bike yet, but he has no problems with his bikes for over 15 years.

He also tells me that he has a pretty good powder match for Granada Red, so maybe give him a call.
www.barringtonmotorworks.com

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Tracknd
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Joined: 09/02/2011
Posts: 2
It isn't a /2 but I have my

It isn't a /2 but I have my barrels painted on my Cafe Project... It's a 70 r60.

Please disregard my engine stand BTW... LOL

  • cafe_jugs.jpg
Wynand
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VBMWMO #7935
Cape Town, South Africa
Joined: 01/15/2011
Posts: 116
Chris, what is your vin

Chris, what is your vin number on the R50?

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1956 R50
1976 R60/6

chrisrappl
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VBMWMO #6458
Raleigh, NC
Joined: 04/30/2011
Posts: 42
Wynand,The VIN on the R50 is

Wynand,

The VIN on the R50 is 556445.

The Bing Agency has everything I need for these carbs, so I have ordered a complete rebuild kit, cosmetic kit and slides.

So now I just need to find a final drive or housing.

And then let the fun begin!

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Wynand
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VBMWMO #7935
Cape Town, South Africa
Joined: 01/15/2011
Posts: 116
Thats the closest to my R50

Thats the closest to my R50 yet. My vin is 556750. 305 units from yours.

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1956 R50
1976 R60/6

sonofrust
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Lafayette, Colorado
Joined: 05/04/2009
Posts: 98
My 2 cents on the color... I

My 2 cents on the color... I have two bikes, an R50 and an R60, that look similar, except one is black and the other is Dover White. They've both received a high quality cosmetic restoration and I've taken the pair to a few local car/bike shows this past summer. Without exception, when viewed by the general public, the white bike gets many more looks and thumbs up. Dover White is an appealing color for this style of motorcycle. It's quite dramatic when the bold /2 frame is painted the same color as well. I believe that the black bike will age better and show its patina more gracefully over time. Keeping the white bike pristine is more work and every little paint chip appears quite obvious. The engines on these bikes are nothing less than elegant and painting cylinders red, etc., would look odd IMHO. Good luck with your next project!

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1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

chrisrappl
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VBMWMO #6458
Raleigh, NC
Joined: 04/30/2011
Posts: 42
The bike will be black (as it

The bike will be black (as it came from the factory). The cylinders are powder coated black. I’m in good shape with the original carbs. Unfortunately, after bead blasting the frame parts, we noticed two small cracks on the bottom of the main section of the Earles fork assembly. One of the cracks actually crosses a weld. So rather than trust a repair on a stressed area, the bike will be getting a newer Earles fork assembly. It will not be correct since the cross member is flat, but it will be safe. Replacing the unvented 35/11 final drive in kind has not worked out as I had hoped. I’m now thinking about either replacing it with a good 25/8 vented unit or trying to install the 35/11 ring and pinion in the modern 25/8 housing. I need to have the Viegle speedometer rebuilt anyway, so as long as they can do it, I might ask them to set it up for 25/8 and just install the final drive as-is. The single-cross wheels were straight and true with no deep gouges or imperfections, but the chrome was gone, so I have powder coated them silver and will lace them up with new SS spokes. Even though they were chrome originally, I think that the factory did provide some wheels that were painted silver, so… My front fender appears to be original, but it has the flat brace, so I don’t know if it was replaced at some point, but the bike will have a fender with a brace. The original headlight bucket with the big round indentation is in good condition, but the headlight ears look normal to me, so they might be the later ones. The headlight lens has the “big U” and is in good condition. The valve covers are the heavy castings, but they are not in great shape, so it might be getting later covers. It does have the big Bosch horn and it is loud! The flywheel has the pressed ball bearings for timing marks and it is pretty cool. I can see me pulling the timing plug to show off the ball bearings (I know, I probably need professional help). So at this point I have come to the realization that this bike will not be “concourse bike”, but I’ll get it looking and running good and just enjoy it. And who knows, I might eventually find the right Earles fork and final drive, but I’m not going to sweat it. Since this bike was originally delivered to Tokyo, Japan, I have no idea what bars it had from the factory. I don't want to try to open and close the risers around a set of US bars, and I know that the S bars won't work well with a solo seat, so I wonder if I should try sidecar bars?

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