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hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
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Hi to all,

I just had my engine casing and gearbox casing bead blasted, came out 100%!
Does anyone know what I can seal the raw aluminium with? As it seems to pick up oil and dirt stains very quickly. I know it depends on the tempretures, but I do not know the max the engine runs at!
Any advise or insight will be appriciated as I do not want to ruin a brand "new" engine!

Thanks

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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

Darryl.Richman
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Surf City, USA (Santa Cruz, CA)
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The usual suggestion is to

The usual suggestion is to wipe the cases with WD-40 every now and again to keep them from oxidizing.

I would not recommend clear coating the cases; the one attempt at this I saw yellowed within a couple years and started chipping off. The aluminum really changes size when it gets warm.

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schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Not to mention that the rough

Not to mention that the rough nature of the casting helps to increase the surface area for allowing heat to be drawn from the casting. Anything that is done to overly fill in or defeat this surface texture can hamper that effect.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Wynand
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Cape Town, South Africa
Joined: 01/15/2011
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I think the Barrington manuel

I think the Barrington manuel recommends rubbing with petroleum jelly.

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1956 R50
1976 R60/6

hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
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I will definately try the

I will definately try the w40, I never thought of that, thats why I love this forum! Thanks guys,
PS Wynand, won't jelly make it shine?

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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

Wynand
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VBMWMO #7935
Cape Town, South Africa
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The petroleum jelly acts as a

The petroleum jelly acts as a solvent for the grease and dirt on the aluminium pores and can be wiped away when the engine has become warm. It therefore acts as a cleaner and protector. Try a small section and see how it looks/works for you.

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1956 R50
1976 R60/6

sonofrust
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Lafayette, Colorado
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The Barrington manual does

The Barrington manual does say that bead blasting the case can be dangerous, as any blast residue can really screw up your engine if it remains inside. I'd read those admonitions before proceeding. Once assembled, it's easy for me to keep a clean casting nice with an occasional wash using Simple Green. A brass wire brush with WD40 works on whatever the green cleaner leaves behind. Personally, I like when the case gets some of it's dark patina back after some use. Good luck!

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1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

karl_dahlquist
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Can an engine cover be "unpolished"?

The prior owner of my 1956 R60 polished the front cover of the engine. Is there a way I can restore the original finish/texture so it matches the rest of the engine and transmission?

miller6997
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You can dull it down, but the

You can dull it down, but the problem is that the blasting smooths out the irregularities, or pores, that give it its distinctive appearance. It will never match the rest of the motor. Watch ebay. Sooner or later a good one will show up. I snagged one for my brother's R50 for under a hundred dollars.

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Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
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Hi Guys

It shows you must be on the forum daily,
Before reading the post from sonofrust, I proceeded, and happy days!, there is residue in my motor, I am scratching head about cleaning it, I thought of parafine, rinsing it a few times, any thoughts on that.
I can kick myself, but I suppose thats the school fees for a new enthusiast!!

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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

808Airhead
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Put it in a solvent tank then

Put it in a solvent tank then blow it out,or spray a garden hose through every orifice then compressed air and I would repeat the process atleast 6-10 times and get a pick and inspect every nook & cranny. Glass beads love to stick on the oil/grease stuck in the small crevices.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
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Thanks, will definately try

Thanks, will definately try it this weekend!

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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

Grant R26
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Toronto Canada and Long Island, Nova Scotia
Joined: 03/28/2011
Posts: 195
Getting 50 plus years of

Getting 50 plus years of burnt on gas and oil off the engines on my R26 and R 27 has been a challenge

I've tried it all. Every metal polish and clearner in the book !

Want to keep the original patina and the rough texture and not polish it up like a British bike ...so bead blasting is not for me...would make it too nice

Finally found my ultimate cleaner...a small stainless steel toothbrush-sized brush from the local automotive supply plus the common hardware store household cleaner called CLR

This natural mild solvent really does the trick. Just do a small 1or 2 inch diameter zone at a time with very small circular motion and it cleans all the dark stuffs out of the pits in the casting. Can nicely clean up the engine casing, trans and rear end in a couple of hours.

Does not look brand new but very presentable and shiny...and now I really notice when I get any new stains on the casing. Wipe em off quick before they get baked on !
Grant in Toronto

jim.mcmahon44
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VBMWMO #8123
Houston, Texas
Joined: 09/14/2011
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Back in another life, I was a

Back in another life, I was a packaging machinery mechanic for Maxwell House. When we were doing preventive maintenance, we rented a machine much like a sandblaster, but it used pelletized dry ice. It does a great job, and leaves zero residue. When I do the motor on my /2, I am planning to try and find one. Problem was, the dry ice only came in big (3' square) cardboard totes....probably enough to clean every bike owned by the membership! The process was so damage free, you could even use it on the lexan and plexiglass enclosures for the machinery. The temp seemed to really harden up grease and break it free, and was wonderful for cleaning the big 50 pitch drive chains on the case packers.

c.d.iesel
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VBMWMO #5514
Darien, Connecticut.
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leave it naked

once cleaned - leave it naked - no coatings

once a year wash it with Simple Green and water,
maybe a nail scrub brush - hose off
It will stay bright and sparkly

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VBMWMO#5514- '64 R27 15K #383851 - '86 R65 22K #6128390 - '13 Fiat ABARTH #DT600282 - '11 FORD TRANSIT Connect #058971 - Retired m/c road racer (1971-2000) - Former M-Benz Star Tech 19 years, BMW Master Tech (cars) - Certified BMW (bike) Tech. Presently BMW Car Sales

hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
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After blasting

This is what came out of the fine grit blasting, I think it looks perfect, what do you guys think?

  • 001_5_web.jpg
  • 023_web.jpg
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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

808Airhead
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You blasted it while the

You blasted it while the engine was partially together? The trans as well? I thought it was a bare case(?) I have never seen that before!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

sonofrust
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Lafayette, Colorado
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Yes, this is interesting.

Yes, this is interesting. Blast media residue inside the case of a partially assembled engine doesn't sound like a good thing. Maybe this isn't the correct story... However, if so, I wonder if it is prudent to reassemble and roll the dice that the blast media isn't going to be a big deal, or better to completely disassemble and do a thorough clean out. Too bad these engines don't have a real oil filter. Even if loose media doesn't plug up small openings and grind up bearings, I wonder if it will fill up the slingers real fast and cook the roller bearings prematurely. Well, the case does look good!

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1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

hubertjg
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Richards Bay, South Africa
Joined: 01/19/2011
Posts: 19
Hi guys

No, this was after the blasting was done, reassembly and installation, sorry about that, there was a bit of residue in the casing, but was thoroughly cleaned out before reassembly.

I am very happy with it, gives a nice touch with all the black in the bike.
the reason for the open sides, I am waiting for rings and new valve guides as mine are totally worn out.
Any advise on installing them, I heard it could be quite tricky!

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1964 R50/2
2001 R1150GS

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