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vonkas
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I updated my website today
http://www.space100.com/anabelle/ana.html

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

nice!!

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

brings to mind one of the bmw experts telling me it wasn't possible to convert one of these to use a cartridge filter

heck it can be done with the filter accessible without removing the pan

guess they left that kinda stuff out of the service manuals

cool stuff

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

intelligent and substantive

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

more better mouse trap pix

vonkas
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Re: Pictorial of R60 project downunder

I have added a new page and edited some details ...

http://www.space100.com/anabelle/ana.html

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

how can this be?

Cylinders - R60, R67 or R68

I could see them being R60 - R67 OR R68

but they cannot possibly be all three

I would also disagree with your nomenclature describing the connecting rods

those are "I Beam"

these are "H Beam" and I've never seen any fitted to a BMW although it wouldn't surprise me to learn carillo has made a set for BMW's

do you have a pic of "knife edge" rods?

I've no idea why none of the other "members" here care to discuss any of the interesting things you've done to your bike but kudos from me........ fwiw

I'd think for the amount of work involved, I'd have put a real live AC alternator on it that did not care how far you rode

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

>how can this be?
>Cylinders - R60, R67 or R68
>I could see them being R60 - R67 OR R68
>but they cannot possibly be all three

of course I meant one of the above, I'm just not sure what they are - can you help?

>I would also disagree with your nomenclature describing the connecting rods

you are right, by your definition they are I-beam. In Germany we call the late
type 'Messerpleuel' which translates to 'knife connecting rods'

>I'd think for the amount of work involved, I'd have put a real live AC
>alternator on it that did not care how far you rode

I had all the other bits but in bad condition. Given my kind of riding in a
place where the sun shines often, I just didn't need the extra hassle. I'm
very pleased with the result and haven't even connected the little generator.

Thanks for your input.

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

>I'd think for the amount of work involved, I'd have put a real live AC
>alternator on it that did not care how far you rode

I't not alltogether rational - I like to play! The bike wasn't original enough
to pursue a 'restoration'. This machine was the dream of my youth and
I wanted to experience riding one. So what I intended was to put it on
the road in practical way. I had high hopes but they were exceeded by
far - she is an absolutely amazing lot of fun to ride!

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

did you catch my post on putting an Italian ac generator on a BMW?

http://vintagebmw.org/node/5331

very easy to do although the arbor for the rotor does have to be done with very much precision and very tight tolerances

here is a 180 watt Lucas on a HD

and I'll also include a self explanatory pic showing the nuts and bolts

all stainless and everything held to within 0.0005"

these mounts have received additional bracing

this is Italian (about 400 watts worth) on American

[/img]

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

to ID the cylinders

if they have threaded holes for six head bolts

they would be R68, R69, or R69S

and even then they could be narrowed down to likely one or two models or a reasonably narrow span of years

I do not know all the subtle differences between all of them and which subtleties distinguish models and years

but I have photographed several and many which makes me, with my very limited experience, quite qualified to say there are several different castings

four head bolt holes make them R60 or R60/2 and I have not really studied those castings with any earnest intent

I was unable to find any pix of your cylinders without the heads installed, need to see the deck surface to count the head bolt holes, you certainly have R60 appearing heads

also, the intake ports in the R68, R69, and R69S heads will be 26mm and have a counter-bored step at the carb flange to locate half of a thin locating ring

the carbs for these same engines, as well as the R50S engines, also have this counterbored step to accept half of this thin locating ring

does a 2mm mismatch between that 24mm carb and port exist?

do your intake ports have this counter bored step in the intake port at the carb flange joint?

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

well that cleares that! Cylinders are R60 - 4 bolts.

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

my cylinders have the pointy cooling fins. I've just read that both the R67 and the early R60 had these. Do you know a way of telling them apart?

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

Good, now you know and the 6 bolt bits are nice to buy for the same money as 4 bolt stuff

pray tell........ since I cannot assume anything

have you done basically a side by side engine comparison to form any opinions of those bearings?

do you think you ended up with fewer or more frictional losses?

any discernible difference in mechanical music or resonances?

I have a keen interest in your bearing solution as I am currently marrying a crank and case set that were never intended to be fornicating about together

anyhow, nice work and documentation, thanks for sharing it

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

a bump for some of the guys I've mentioned these engine bearings too

hope some of you that see this may actually comprehend what has taken place and perhaps stir up some commentary

register for the forum guys and if you aren't a member of the "club", the publication is a fine one even for a guy like me that simply loves motorcycles and not particularly smitten with any single make

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

Anabelle is back on the bench. I'm doing a planned
disassembly at 5000km to check how things are going inside
the motor. The crank and new main bearings look perfect!
Re-tested the lubrication system with the used filter
element - perfect oil delivery. After pulling off the steel
timing gear I was able to turn the pump gear with my finger
- I was amazed by the volume of oil that it pumped! I can
see no sign of any restriction in the oil flow. I'm
replacing the cylinder heads with overhauled ones and I'll
fit better lifters as well as later model timing gears ...
as I said, it's a work in progress. I'm taking lots more
pictures - will eventually update the web site.

http://www.space100.com/anabelle/ana.html

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

good to read that and nice work

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

R60 project downunder - website updated today

http://www.space100.com/anabelle/ana.html

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

be nice if my poor overworked clicker finger didn't have to surf every page to figure out what's been added

hope all is well

vonkas
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

my home page has an indicator whichpage(s) have been added/changed. I looks like this: <<< new

"EuroIron" wrote:

be nice if my poor overworked clicker finger didn't
have to surf every page to figure out what's been added

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

cool, neat stuff on the 30 degree gears but you lost me on a couple details having to do with the extra odd looking holes in the cam gear

was also wondering if the counter bores shown are a bit deep

how much metal is left between the bottom of the bores and the steel thing they thread into?

you think these things over oil ?

I'm halfway of the mind that they do for high speed work

1967 R50-2
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

Vonkas-

Very interesting work. Can you give some more details about the "Generator"?

What parts were used? What did you have to do to adapt it? What is the wattage output? This seems like an apt adaptation for a race bike where you want to minimize rotating mass.

Also...if your oil filter adapter continues to work, maybe you should consider production. Great idea.

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EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

I can tell you that a ducati 370-400ish watt permanent magnet alternator from

a 900SS and a few other modern Ducatis can easily be shoehorned/adapted into place and provide all the juice you'll ever need

the earlier ones are about 150 watts and have all the same dimensions except they are much thinner

they came out of the square case and bevel engines

the new ones I am talking about have the magnet rotor captured by the stator

some of the other models have the magnetic rotor external to the stator

1967 R50-2
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Don't really need 300 watts, But if the Ducati alternator is smaller/lighter than the stock set-up that might be OK.

I am curious as to what the smallest size alternator/generator in terms of weight which can be used and still run all the electrics...including an electronic ignition. It can even be 6V.

Most of the current aftermarket stuff, understandably gives a bump in Wattage (and weight) over the stock set-up. But I don't think anyone has looked at substitutes from other bikes for a lightweight alternative.

__________________

1967 R50/2

EuroIron
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the 150 watt duc alternator is very small and light

you can regulate to any voltage you want but 12V is far more effective than 6V

fwiw... I've putzed about with several many alternative charging options for and of many different bikes

EuroIron
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Pictorial of R60 project downunder

no need to wonder, measure what you have at full song

"1967 R50/2" wrote:

Don't really need 300 watts, But if the Ducati alternator is smaller/lighter than the stock set-up that might be OK.

I am curious as to what the smallest size alternator/generator in terms of weight which can be used and still run all the electrics...including an electronic ignition. It can even be 6V.

Most of the current aftermarket stuff, understandably gives a bump in Wattage (and weight) over the stock set-up. But I don't think anyone has looked at substitutes from other bikes for a lightweight alternative.

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