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jambo
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VBMWMO #9208
Long Island
Joined: 11/23/2016
Posts: 121

Hello all!

I have a newly restored R69S with a Vape/PowerDynamo electronic ignition. The motor runs great and is easy to start when it’s cold or warm. When it’s hot it WILL not start unless I bump start it and I do not like to do that because it is hard on the transmission.

I tickle the carbs until fuel pukes out and I have tried all throttle positions to no avail. When I pull the plugs they are dry!! The plugs are not one bit wet. It’s getting frustrating and I am wondering what to do with it. I thought it might be vapor locked but taking the slides out to let the carbs cool does no good until everything cools down. What gets me is that regardless of whatever I do the plugs are dry. I would like to see them flooded!

Any help is appreciated!!

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James W.
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

Beemer100
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Germany
Joined: 05/15/2018
Posts: 87
James, do you have the

James,

do you have the insulator blocks between carb and cylinder head?
You might also want to move your question into the vintage section of the forum ... you might get better response over there

Klaus

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6901
I think I can move this to

I think I can move this to the proper forum. If it doesn't work right, just repost your issues.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

jambo
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VBMWMO #9208
Long Island
Joined: 11/23/2016
Posts: 121
Insulator blocks

I have insulator blocks between the head and carb. They are plastic I believe. The highest temp I saw was 165F on the carb. That’s very hot and past the vapor point of fuel.

This is a 1967 R69S and I think I posted it in the right forum. If I did not, I apologize.

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James W.
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

Twocams
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VBMWMO #8750
Joined: 03/16/2014
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If my 69's plugs get wet it

If my 69's plugs get wet it wont start at all. I have to pull them out & dry them. Also I can never tickle the carbs. I turn the gas on, watch the filters tell they are full then turn off the tap at the tank. Start kicking usually 98% 1-2 kicks when cold. When hot I leave the gas tap/valve off & just use the gas that is in the carbs already. I have to crack the throttle a little when hot. Once in a "blue moon" it wont start after 5-6 kicks, Then Ill just let it site a few minutes.
Check your float bowels when your having all these problems. Do they have enough gas in them? I know they all have their own way to start. This is mine.

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Twocams
69 R69S
92 R100RT
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter

808Airhead
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Joined: 08/05/2009
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Close the plug gaps

Close the plug gaps slightly,and do you turn off the gas and let it idle before turning it off? I always turn off the gas and let it run for a minute or so,then when I come back it is 1-2 kicks. You can try kicking with no throttle and gas off,,,,,,whatever works,every bike has its own cold/hot start drill....you just have to get to know the drill.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

312Icarus
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Turn the fuel off between

Turn the fuel off between stops, and generally don’t tickle the carbs when warm or hot. Crack the throttle about 1/8-1/4 way open. My guess is that you are flooding it.

Icarus

FL54
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Joined: 08/12/2018
Posts: 76
I follow the starting

I follow the starting procedure in the 1966 owners manual and it works for me. Hot start, do not tickle carbs, two kicks with ignition off and throttle about half open. Ignition on, kick and go. Usually first kick she lights up.

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
Posts: 595
r69s hard start when warm

312Icarus wrote:

Turn the fuel off between stops, and generally don’t tickle the carbs when warm or hot. Crack the throttle about 1/8-1/4 way open. My guess is that you are flooding it.

Icarus

I agree with Icarus that you are flooding it even though the plugs look dry
I fought this same problem for a long time
My r50 r27 r51/3 I do tickle the carbs when cold but never when warm
I called Vech and like always took his advise and all is well now

He told me never to tickle the carbs on the r69s model ( I will if below 45 degress)
Also said that if you do flood it replace the plugs ( always a good idea to have a spare set of plugs)

This is my warm/hot start routine
I always shut off the gas 1/2 block before shut down or at least run it parked with the gas off for a few minutes to lower the fuel level in the bowls (I do use my side stand)

As already posted I leave the gas off while starting hot/warm
crack the throttle 1/2 and it starts 1st kick most times and then turn the gas back on

It took a while getting used too not tickle the carbs on the r69s but Vech advise solved my starting problems and I now can start my r69s cold or hot

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

jambo
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VBMWMO #9208
Long Island
Joined: 11/23/2016
Posts: 121
Hard starting

Thank you all. When I get a chance to go mount next I will try it when I start it.

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James W.
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

Beemer100
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Germany
Joined: 05/15/2018
Posts: 87
James, I think you got plenty

James,

I think you got plenty of starting procedures now you can test. And it will mean "test", since it seems that all engines react a bit different to the same procedure. I have 5 old Beemer boxers and all of them need different treatment.
My 1967 R69S starts first crank when hot ... all the time. No playing with the carb or gas valve.

The thing, however, which makes me wonder is the temp you measure at the carbs. I just came back from a longer ride and I measured hardly 100F at the carb ... with cylinder heads being at around 290F (which I consider pretty hot). You said earlier that you measure over 160F and you said the insulator blocks are installed. Did you ever measure the temp at the heads?

Klaus

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