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KIRIEIW
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Hello, new member here but wanted to share a few pics of my 65' R50/2 motorcycle. This is/ was my Grandfathers motorcycle. He bought it in 1969 from a fellow who brought it over from Germany with him when he moved to the states. My Opa was saying the first owner of the bike actually moved a second time after that from Maine to California and road this little /2 across county! Since then my Opa enjoyed it on the weekends until it was finally laid to rest for the past 30 years. Thankfully all the gas was drained and the nice red finish is still in great shape when you remove the fuel cap to have a peek inside. From what we know its in fairly original shape but I'm sure some will know more here. My Opa installed some aftermarket turn signals years back from a Honda but aside from that I think its basically original.

If anyone has any tips or comments I'd love to hear what you guys think. I'm still not sure what to do about the wheels but they'll need to be addressed soon considering how old the tires are. Aren't they supposed to be chrome or aluminum?

I've already ordered a good amount of parts for the bike, including a full stainless steel Keihan exhaust system, pricey! I also bought a cover on Amazon which fits quite well. I really want to get it back up and running considering its been in the family so long and get to enjoy it on the weekends or my short commute to work. I work at my local BMW dealership (cars) for a living, hopefully motorcycles wont be that much more challenging!

Regards,

-Kevin

Twocams
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Looks like a very clean old

Looks like a very clean old bike. I would get a good book and do some work to her. You may want to do some reading about the slingers....here.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S
92 R100RT
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter

Daves79x
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Very Nice!

You have a very nice, pretty original bike there. Yes, the wheels should be either chrome or aluminum alloy. However someone (I think here) swears that he has a bike, also sold in Europe I think, that came with painted wheels. It would be good to research that as much as possible and carefully inspect your wheels to see what you can determine. Original used Weinmann alloys or new chrome wheels are pretty available.

Dave

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Dave

Twocams
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My R69S had painted wheels. I

My R69S had painted wheels. I have put chrome wheels on now. Rims were $500+ both. New stainless spokes, total just over $600 each.
But they look nicer than the painted rims. And I like the kool factor.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S
92 R100RT
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter

KIRIEIW
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Yup I've defiantly been

Twocams wrote:

Looks like a very clean old bike. I would get a good book and do some work to her. You may want to do some reading about the slingers....here.

twocams

Yup I've definitely been doing some reading, Duane's site has some really good info. I'm a little worried about the slingers but I think I'm going to hold off on a complete tear down and get the bike running at least first.

312Icarus
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At ~ 50 k miles, I would

At ~ 50 k miles, I would seriously consider doing a slinger service. If you wrench on cars, working on a /2 is a snap. That said, slinger service takes a few specialized tools, but is certainly in the realm of a well equipped shop.

Icarus

KIRIEIW
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Got a little work done over

Got a little work done over the weekend. Fixed a few issues and also found some Smile The most worrisome would be my grandpa noticed that the carburetor on the right side- the cable guide is cracked. The rest of the carb is intact, hopefully I can order that piece separately or a member on here would be willing to part with it. Anyone have recommendations on what I should do? We also got around to working on the exhaust. I was scared to crack the cylinder head removing the exhaust down pipe so we actually ended up cutting off the threaded portion since the new exhaust comes with one already. Even after soaking them in Kroil over the past few weeks it was too suborn to break loose.

-Changed Engine Oil
-Removed Exhaust flange from cylinder head- Had to cut it off!
-Removed Oil pan and installed magnet from Vech- Cleaned in hot tank at work and replaced gasket/ crush washer
-New black timing plug cover (original white one was really brittle, but still have it intact)
-Changed Transmission Fluid (with GL-4 from Vech)
-Vacuumed out tank and blew out any debris with compressed air with petcock removed
-Disassembled Petcock, cleaned. Need to order new seals
-Replaced foot rest/ trans foot shift rubber
-Replaced fuel cap gasket
-New intake boots
-New fuel lines installed

KIRIEIW
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Pics

808Airhead
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Looks good!! You are getting

Looks good!! You are getting her ready for the ride!!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Daves79x
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Looking good!

Looks like you covering most of the bases for now. I would just go ahead and remove the carbs and completely disassemble and clean them. The floats are probably cracked as well. You can buy a replacement for your cracked top. Static timing should at least be checked as well as cleaning the points. I’d inspect the ignition coil very closely. If it is at all mushy, replace it. I would personally replace it anyway. These old original coils are problematic. I’d spring for new plug wires and caps too. Check your driveshaft boot carefully too.

Lots to look after on these things, but once right, they will run a long time.

Dave

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Dave

skychs
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Very nice

Very nice. I love seeing these old bikes transform into beautiful machines with just a little TLC. Keep up the good work.

KIRIEIW
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Thanks guys! Well I made another

Thanks guys! Well I made another order with Vech. I got the bike a new petcock, but I also bought a rebuild kit for the original one. I really like the older style look of the original but I've read multiple sites saying how common it is for the original to leak and its not worth using, so in case my attempt at a rebuild fails I'll still have a spare. I also ordered two BING carburetor gaskets sets and some exhaust washers/ spacers since the originals were in poor shape.

KIRIEIW
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Long time no updates. A

Long time no updates. A really nice fellow by the name of "Tommy" (user: wa1nca) had exactly what I was looking for to fix my cracked carburetor top. I can't thank him enough, I have no clue what I would have done otherwise so thanks again Tommy. As of now, I got the new exhaust system bolted on, the carburetors rebuilt with all new gaskets, and new fuel lines. Now I have a question for someone with some knowledge. She's not getting spark and I'm not quite sure on how to go about diagnosing it. I took the front cover off and had a look around, all the wires are corrosion free, the contacts don't have wear (I do have new ones though), both spark plug wires have continuity. Any tips would be greatly appreciated on what I should test next, I'm thinking the coil could have gone bad but no clue. My Clymer manual said to test the coil on a bench tester, I'm sure someone on here could chime in if a continuity test would be OK and the step by step instructions to do so. For the record I don't have a battery connected, I'm just cranking it over looking for spark hoping the magneto will generate the power for spark to occur.

-Kevin

schrader7032
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Be sure that the safety gaps

Be sure that the safety gaps at the coil under the front cover are set to 10-11mm. If they are too close, the spark generated by the magneto will find the easiest place to jump and that can be at the safety gaps.

Beyond that, the magneto must be timed properly to get the strongest spark when kicking the bike.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Daves79x
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Original Coil

You may recall I mentioned replacing the coil a few posts back. Do it. I'm betting that's the problem. Points last forever, but need to be clean between the contacts. A new condenser should be installed too. If the bike was running fine at one time with the magneto timing set where it is now, it will run again.

If you want to start from scratch with the magneto system (recommended at some point), remove the frame, rotor, everything. Clean all ground contact points well. Check the magnetism of the rotor - you should be able to pick up a decent-sized open end wrench with the rotor. If not, they can be re-magnetized. Then re-assemble the mag carefully, getting the mag timing exact, then tighten all mounting points carefully. Then make sure the points are clean and gapped, new condenser. Check the advancer for broken springs, free movement. Reinstall that and carefully static time the ignition. Check now for extreme differential timing, that will be better determined when you get a timing light on it. Get the new coil on , tight, and the air gap adjusted, as mentioned before.

All the above should be done for a long-term healthy and reliable starter, but for now, get the new coil and I'm betting it will run.

Dave

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KIRIEIW
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Should have listened to you

Should have listened to you at the start Dave, the issue was the coil. Ordered a new one from Vech and got it installed yesterday. Sure enough, spark is now back and working. I ordered a new condenser too. I definitely plan on going over the magneto system at some point, but I don't want to fool around with the timing settings at the moment. Figured might as well get the carbs working and in sync first then move onto the next thing.

KIRIEIW
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So after fixing my spark

So after fixing my spark issue, a new issue occurred. Not only does the bike not run, I'm leaking fuel from the air regulating screw's on both carburetors as soon as you open the petcock. I'm sure I'll need to take the carbs off a second time and investigate. It leaks a drip or two of fuel every 15 seconds or so. Any tips or ideas are welcome.

Twocams
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First I would make sure the

First I would make sure the fuel level isnt to high in the fuel bowl. Next make sure the floats are shutting the gas off. i had one that was dripping sometimes and just adjusted the float to cut the gas sooner. Dont leave the gas tank valve on unless you are starting the engine.

twocams

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Beemer100
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I think I see on one of the

I think I see on one of the pictures that your float tops are the early style (valve seat is centered). That means you cannot adjust the float level. Which to my view is a good thing, never liked the later style float mechanism ... my humble opinion). So, check if the float needle shuts off the valve (dip the needle into ashes and smoothly grind them into the valve seat in the bowl cap. Clean properly afterwards!!!. Then make sure you have the right float in the bowl. Not sure which one is right for your bike but they are available in various grams ... all of that can be done without removing the carbs
If all of that is done, the carbs should be fine and not leaking (as long as the bike is on the center stand). If you lean it over to the sidestand it will always leak out of the left carb

good luck

Klaus

312Icarus
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Classic sticking float

Classic sticking float needles or flooded floats!

If the needle valve(s) stick fuel will flood into the carb bowl, and overflow into the cylinders and or out the idle needle hole as it is doing. Carb needles will stick from gum in the seats, and floats can leak causing them not to rise to shut of the fuel. I suggest at the very least replacing the float needles and consider the new plastic carb floats from Vech. All the old copper ones will leak eventually.

Of you haven’t (I haven’t read the entire thread) yet done a thorough carb clean, I suggest doing so now. Very easy to R&R the carbs and clean them on the bench. You can leave the slides on the cables and clean the slides on the bike.

good luck

Icarus

Daves79x
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Carefully Check

If you still have the original brass/copper floats, I'll guarantee you will see little cracks all over them. They sink, as mentioned above. Get new floats and needles and I think that will fix your problem. Nothing should leak (well, almost nothing) from the carbs on the centerstand with the gas on. As mentioned, the left one will, and is supposed to, leak on the sidestand with the gas on.

Dave

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KIRIEIW
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Thanks everyone for the help/

Thanks everyone for the help/ support. Yes they're the early style so the floats aren't adjustable. Little update, I got home from work this afternoon surprised to see my 85yr old grandfather and his good friend messing with the bike. It was a big surprise to me to walk in the backyard and see her running for the first time in my life, it's been over 20 years since it last ran. I actually had no clue he even planned on invited his friend over today to work on the bike. Few things going on, first of all one of the cylinders is running a little hotter then the other. We did a compression test and both cylinder's are equal. My grandfather also had another tool that we used to check the vacuum while running. I'm still suspecting a float issue, and of course the carbs need to be tuned/ adjusted properly since being resealed and cleaned. We tired getting them in sync but the the one carburetor is giving us some issues. You fiddle around with it and the bike idles high, next minute it wants to die out. Not only that but once it dies out getting it re started is a huge pain. If anyone's local in the Bay Area and has a hour of free time one weekend, my grandfather and I would be all ears on what tips you may have, otherwise we'll just continue to read our Clymer manual and Vech's tips he has posted online and of course, the help from you guys on the forum.

schrader7032
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That "tool" is a

That "tool" is a Uni-syn...here's one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-4025-Carburetor-Balancing-Instrument/dp...

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

R68
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Your R50/2...

..retains it's original Bing 124/131-132 carbs which are low tech but fine for the purpose and a bit delicate but very well made. The only adjustments possible are the clip position (slide needle height which should be "3", the throttle speed set using your Uni-Syn, and the idle mixture which is set with the mixture screw which should be set at 2 turns out from all-way-in. I'll assume your main and idle jets are original. If you want, you can buy the Bing Agency book, but it's very poorly written, almost incomprehensible. With your new coil, and properly set carbs your motorcycle should almost start by itself; an R50/2 is that fine a machine!

Beemer100
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You are saying the carbs are

You are saying the carbs are cleaned and sealed new. Good. Bings are usually pretty reliable once setup for good. The idle jet, however, can get clogged pretty easy and then adjusting mixture is impossible.

Check if there is an air leak between carb and cylinder head (spray some brake cleaner where the gasket is once bike is idling and listen if the revs change). Then adjust the idle mixture and you should feel a change in revs when turning the screw in and out. Find the spot where it runs best. Then use your tool to synch the carbs. Then you should be fine with the carbs.

KLaus

oldnslo
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You might want to check the

You might want to check the spark plug cable on the side that is giving you trouble, you have the shielded-type spark plug cap (which were used for radio noise suppression ) and these are known to go bad-easily replaced with the brown standard type, Vech sells them. I had a similar problem with my '68 R50 US which disappeared when I replaced the cable/cap; spark was weak/intermittent giving hard starting and erratic running.
Where are you in the Bay Area? I'm in Mill Valley.
Adam

KIRIEIW
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I had my Dad put in all new

I had my Dad put in all new gaskets and clean the carbs out for me, he's much more familiar with carburetors then I am because of the fact he owns multiple older carbureted cars, unlike me. Just like you mentioned Klaus, the idle jet was completely clogged with crap my dad said when he cleaned them. Adam, I'm not a huge distance away from you but not close either, I'm over in San Mateo.

Ok so I had a chance to remove the floats and sure enough, one of the carbs floats has a little bit of gas inside it which you can hear when you shake it. Even though the other side is fine, I'll still replace both sides. I still need to order a few more things such as a battery and possibly a battery box, but I'm not entirely sure on what brand battery to go with. She's coming along slowly but surely, thanks everyone for the help.

-Kevin

312Icarus
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/2 doesnt need a battery to

/2 doesnt need a battery to run...all it does is power the lights at idle. The ignition system is completely separate from the 6 vdc system.

I buy cheap batteries from some battery depot. (Can’t remember the name) about $30. Once you get the battery you can check the generator and voltage regulator voltage. Mine chronically undercharges, and rather than replace the regulator I simply put it on a small 6 volt solar panel when it is in the garage.

Icarus

bpw
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Batteries Plus Bulbs has a

Batteries Plus Bulbs has a sealed 6 volt battery that fits well. Cheap too if I remember right.

Another bay area /2 here, up in Richmond.

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1963 r50/2 with 600cc conversion, 1971 Honda CL350, 1935 BSA 250cc, 2004 Ducati Multistrada, 2000 Aprilia RSV mille R, Kawasaki w650

KIRIEIW
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We had a nice buy by the name

We had a nice buy by the name of Greg stop by the house and he lend us a hand. He owns a airhead shop over in Redwood City, CA. We adjusted the valves and also checked the bikes timing. He was even nice enough to kick me down a feeler gauge tool with both sizes needed on each end to adjust the valves in the future. They were a little on the tight side but timing was spot on.

She still wont start first kick, but you can get her stared eventually. No mater what you do though you can't get her to idle, you constantly need to apply throttle or she'll die out. All I know at this point is it's a carb issue, but not sure what part needs to be replaced. Greg mentioned check the slide needles. They looked OK to me, but who am I to know right from wrong. If they were worn they would have very bad grooving I'm assuming, or just no sharp point at all correct? Mine still have a point but not nearly as sharp as my float needles for example.

-Kevin

bstratton
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I had a similar problem on my

I had a similar problem on my 71 slash 5. I also have a 65 R50 I am restoring but haven't fired it up yet. Similar bing carbs. I ended up replacing my main jet needles, low speed (idle) jets and float valves and floats. took care of the problem completely. Once I got the carbs adjusted correctly and synchronized the bike became a first kick, nice low idle machine. The only real difference between the 65 carbs and the slash 5 is the flange gasket (between the carb and the head), which could be a source of an intake leak. That could cause problems like you describe.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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