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hooverbj's picture
VBMWMO #9255
Joined: 04/01/2017
Posts: 115

Every air cooled vehicle I've ever owned--as specified in repair manuals --says I should periodically torque the head bolts. I have never done this.
However my newly acquired 66 R50/2 has some wetness around the head as it mates with the engine block...not dripping, just wet.
The engine was supposedly rebuilt --new rings, slingers when I purchased it last august. Could this be the cause of the seepage?

I want to purchase a decent torque wrench. Anyone have an opinion? Brand? Where to Purchase?

Thanks in advance,
Brian Hoover
1966 R50/2
2004 R1200c
Cedar City, Utah

MikeL46's picture
VBMWMO #9300
Joined: 01/01/2016
Posts: 79
I had an old German mechanic

I had an old German mechanic tell me that BMW's do not leak. I showed him the oil stains at various spots on my /2 and he said:

"THAT'S NOT A LEAK! Leaks drip on the ground, that's seepage and it's normal."

Unless I use modern gasket sealants I get seepage.



67 R50/2 w/R100 engine/trans and Ural Sidecar
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar

Twocams's picture
VBMWMO #8750
Joined: 03/16/2014
Posts: 728
I like the clicker type 1/2

I like the clicker type 1/2 drive. Then use a 3/8 reducer if needed. Some instructions say to loosen the head bolts first. But then I never know if they were loose or not. What the hell do I want to loosen any head bolt for...just to re tighten them. I like Sears stuff and the tools. For inch lbs. I use the beam type (with needle/ dial). Not much faith with a clicker on inch lb. bolts.



92 R100RT/69 R69S
2004 Aprilia Atlantic 500cc single cylinder Scooter
83 Honda V65 Magna, fastest production bike in1983

schrader7032's picture
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6950
If the leak/weeping is around

If the leak/weeping is around the cylinder base, a torque wrench probably won't help much. The head bolts tie into the cylinder and the cylinder is held onto the engine case with four nuts on studs. There's little room to get a torque wrench unless you have some wild and crazy adapter. Generally, those bolts are tightened using a 12mm wrench that might have to be slimmed down to fit into the gap. Usually as good grunt on those bolts is about all that's needed. Of course, the cylinder base needs to have a small bead of non-hardening sealant.


Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

kfelt's picture
Joined: 11/02/2017
Posts: 30
You mean cylinder base? I was

You mean cylinder base? I was stopped at a rest area on my '56 and noticed there was oil leaking profusely from the left cylinder base. All bolts were loose. Got out a wrench (not a torque wrench) and tightened. Has not leaked since. That was 12 years ago and I ride it a lot. Just live with the "seeps". Every old bike seeps regardless of the brand.

Anthony fish
Anthony fish's picture
Cranford, NJ
Joined: 06/17/2016
Posts: 40
Gasket sealant

I used permatex ultra gray sealant on both sides of the aluminum cylinder base gasket, works great.
The head bolts should be re tourqued at 100 miles after replacing the gaskets.
Valve clearance should be checked if you get some movement on the head bolts.



1969 R60/2, 1977 R100/7, 1988 K100RS, 2017 R Nine T

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