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ksiemon
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VBMWMO #8470
Joined: 03/09/2013
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Front Wheel /Detail

Yes That will work so you don't half to pull the tire! Let me know if you need the correct info on your build, will try to help.......been living with mine for 43 years now! Meyer in Germany has the correct wheel weights also.......don't go stick on!

Good luck.....have fun!

rayburtappraisal
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VBMWMO #9392
Warrenton VA
Joined: 01/18/2018
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front forks

When you removed the fork tubes from the fork clamp, how did you go about it? I was reluctant to "pry" the clamp after I loosened the bolts.

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skychs
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Forks and wheels

rayburtappraisal wrote:

When you removed the fork tubes from the fork clamp, how did you go about it? I was reluctant to "pry" the clamp after I loosened the bolts.

All I had to do was loosen the bolts ..... then I took a medium size regular screw driver and lightly tapped it into the fork clamp gap to open it just a little bit. The two tubes fell right out.

Today I had the chance to check the front wheel. The arrow was right where you said it would be, around the stem hole. Luckily for me the arrow on the wheel and the front tire were in the same direction. All I had to do was replace the stem plug and fill it up. Im so happy I didn't have to take everything apart again and start over.

The rotors are now on the wheel and snugged up to 18 Ft.lbs.

The only Service/repair/maintenance manual I have is the Clymer BMW R-Series . 1970-1994 M502.

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schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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I would use a piece of wood

I would use a piece of wood as a wedge to open up the gap.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

ksiemon
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Information

Drop me call if you want me to email you a scanned copy of the factory stuff. I do also have a Clymer and a Haynes.
The more the better, sometime a person just needs a good picture of what your working on!

Three Zero Eight 227-9871

skychs
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Progress

Progress in the shop today ......

The front end is in ... not all buttoned up but in place and looking good. The front wheel is on. The shocks are in. Calipers and rotors are on. The pads will go in once I get the master cylinder and lines finished. For fun I threw on the front fender. SMILES !!

Here are the photos of the front brake master cylinder. Yuk. Nasty. It all cleaned up so Im not too disappointed. I found some O-rings but I will still need to replace the two seals. I love it when this stuff comes out nasty and ends up looking like new.

Do I paint or powder coat the master cylinder? With brake fluid Im thinking a good powder coat will hold up better.

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skychs
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rear wheel

Progress on the rear wheel. It came back from being blasted. Cleans up fairly well but its a PITA polishing it. I slapped the temporary handlebars on it so its now a rolling chassis again with new rubber. Looked funny with the wheel and no tire. Smile

Note: Even the rear wheel has an arrow for direction of roll. Imagine that. Kind-of obvious isn't it?

The plan now is to roll the bike off the lift and start working on cleaning up the engine. Its not too bad but I wanted to do as much as I can before I slide it back in the frame.

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skychs
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Rolling Chassis

Certain stages of a rebuild are very memorable. Rolling it out of the garage the first time is one of them. I even got a smile from the wife.

The front brake master cylinder is also back on the bike. If this thing drips as much as one tiny drop of fluid Im upgrading it to the next version. I hate brake fluid. Smile

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skychs
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Motor

I have been on vacation so progress has been slow. However, this morning I was able to install the engine. Soooo much easier without the transmission attached. I assume the tranny will go in easy peasy right? Anything Im missing here?

Now its back to work and the R90S sits for another week.

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ksiemon
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Trans-Shaft Bolts

I't been awhile but I remember pulling the swing arm pins out and pulling it back into the fender for more room. Others here may have a better way. Also the new shaft bolts are different and do away with the lock washers. Some of the locks have broke, so they recommend
using the new stuff.

Work and more Work...... so we can get, and work on more Bikes!

skychs
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Tranny

ksiemon wrote:

I't been awhile but I remember pulling the swing arm pins out and pulling it back into the fender for more room. Others here may have a better way. Also the new shaft bolts are different and do away with the lock washers. Some of the locks have broke, so they recommend
using the new stuff.

Work and more Work...... so we can get, and work on more Bikes!

Your right. It shouldn't be too bad. I just need a little extra room. On the R60/2 I just had to tilt the engine up and forward. I may try that first just to see.

I have the new bolts (no washers) for the drive shaft. Everything right now is just in place and not tightened down.

skychs
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Tranny

Its in. All I did was pull the swing arm pins. It laid back just enough to slide the tranny right in. Lining the splines up was the hardest part. Electrical harness is next. Oh Boy !!

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khittner
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Even Grudging Approval is Nice

skychs wrote:

Certain stages of a rebuild are very memorable. Rolling it out of the garage the first time is one of them. I even got a smile from the wife.

Daytona Orange works that way, even with most spouses' cold and hardened hearts.

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skychs
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Progress

Good progress this weekend. The electrical system is going in fine. The only glitch so far is not having the turn signal wires routed before I put the front end together. Grrrrr.

The body work is coming together. Im really happy with the progress and hope to have more to install when I get back from work next week. I ordered a seat from Sargent early "last" December and have yet to receive it. I may have to go to sMeyer from Germany to finish the seat tray. They have two different seats but I'm still not sure what the difference it. There is very little description on their products.

Here are some photos from the weekend. Im not building a show bike. Im building a bike to ride. I want it to look nice and run well but Im not really concerned about it being a perfect replica from the factory in 1975. Id rather the bike have character than look like every other R90S.

The more I work on it the more excited I get. If all goes well I plan on having this bike on the street before the end of March.

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Twocams
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Looks good from here. Nice

Looks good from here. Nice work. Went to my shop today for about 1 hr. Then started to snow some. So rather be inside in front of the boob tube. Then I took a power nap for 2 hrs.

twocams

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69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

khittner
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90S Seat Covers

skychs wrote:

I ordered a seat from Sargent early "last" December and have yet to receive it. I may have to go to sMeyer from Germany to finish the seat tray. They have two different seats but I'm still not sure what the difference it. There is very little description on their products.

There were two different seat cover patterns for the R90S, which probably explains the two seat options from Meyer. The '74-only cover was plainer, and had essentially two big rectangles embossed in the cover. The '75 and '76 bikes had a cover that had ribs embossed in the cover across both the rider and passenger portions of it. This later cover continued to be used for later bikes with cowled seats through the mid-80s. Your bike would "properly" use the later-pattern cover.

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skychs
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Seat

khittner wrote:
skychs wrote:

I ordered a seat from Sargent early "last" December and have yet to receive it. I may have to go to sMeyer from Germany to finish the seat tray. They have two different seats but I'm still not sure what the difference it. There is very little description on their products.

There were two different seat cover patterns for the R90S, which probably explains the two seat options from Meyer. The '74-only cover was plainer, and had essentially two big rectangles embossed in the cover. The '75 and '76 bikes had a cover that had ribs embossed in the cover across both the rider and passenger portions of it. This later cover continued to be used for later bikes with cowled seats through the mid-80s. Your bike would "properly" use the later-pattern cover.

I saw the early and late model seats but they also have two identical looking ribbed seats, 1975 and later. I think they called one premium and one standard. The difference could be the quality of the seat cover or the pad. It doesn’t differentiate.

I guess I need to give them a call.

Sargent seat has really disappointed me on this one.

skychs
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Seat

Progress on the build today. The long awaited seat finally arrived from Moto-Bins in the UK. Cost .... 273.99 GBP or $382.77 delivered in 3 days. Now thats service. IMHO the quality is top notch. New pan, foam, seat cover, rubber pads, everything but the two hinges which I already had. Once installed everything lined up. The pin striping matches and the seat lock works like a charm. Photos from the day.

Thanks Khittner for the advise !!!

Now its back to the electrical harness. Grrrrrrrrr

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skychs
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Side covers

Question .........
The battery box went in today so I installed the side covers to check the fit. The side covers just slide in the groves on the frame and are connected/held in via a rubber band? Am I missing something here? Should there be some kind of rubber bumpers or modifications to the frame slots so the covers will not rattle around? What a horrible fit.

Any suggestions on how to secure the side covers so they don't move around and rattle?

schrader7032
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I'm not near my bike, but I

I'm not near my bike, but I believe my /7 has some glued on bumpers to sit against the frame. The left side cover is captive due to the handle and can't fall off. The right side however could let loose and be lost. Yes, there is a set of rubber rings or bands that hold the covers together...see #4 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0278-USA-10-1974-2476-BMW-R...

I have been using for many years a small piece of nylon rope/string to tie the two together. Plus, on the right cover, I've added a small black zip-tie to further secure the cover where the string connects. I've seen another approach which is to glue to the inside of the cover near one of the frames a small plastic block which has a tiny loop/ring on it. Then you can use a zip-tie around the frame to secure the cover.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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side covers

Thanks Kurt .....

All good advise. I like the plastic block suggestion. I will look into that.

For now, to keep the covers from being loose and vibrating I used rubber washers and grommets. The grommets on the loops of the frame keep the covers from rattling. The rubber washers glued to the inside of the covers keep it from rattling against the frame. Temporary for now until I come up with something better. What a horrible design from BMW. Wow.

May sound crazy but I enjoy this kind of problem solving. It may or may not work long term but its certainly more fun than reading the darn manual for everything.

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schrader7032
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I haven't given the side

I haven't given the side cover design much thought...hasn't been an issue for me. In terms of "horrible designs", there are others that are far worse and might have significant consequences. You have no experience with the /7-on filter canister setup...the /6 oil canister was bullet proof. They changed the design and it's now referred to as the $2000-oring because if not checked and done right, it can ruin the engine. So pick your battles as to bad designs! Big Grin

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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electrical

Today I installed the exhaust and the two carbs. After that I took the top triple tree back off because I forgot to run the turn signal wires from the headlight bucket through the ears and out the turn signal post. What a PITA. In hindsight it was best because the wires were a mess and needed to be replaced. While I was in there I also replaced the clutch safety switch wire because it had broken off at the switch. All the other wires seemed to be fine. So now ..... the final touches to the wire harness. Everything is falling into place except the Instrument cluster harness. For the life of me I can't find the correct routing. Nothing seemed to work so I quit for the night.

Tomorrow I will start installing all the cables and possibly the handlebars and controls. There is a local handlebar that may be an inch or two wider than the one I have which may be a little more comfortable.

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ksiemon
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Side Covers

For all new to the /6 bikes. From the first /6 to mid year 75 the covers had NO Rubber Washers. The later ones that did, and with good "Rubber Bands" kept them in place. A lot of right covers fell off due to the crappy rubber used in the bands (they rotted before your eyes!)
The new stuff is good, and you can get everything to up-date or replace your cover rubbers. Just keep a eye out on the bands, keep a spare in the took kit and swap out if they start looking bad.

Rubber Ring. 63 12 1351414 $3.00 ea.
Rubber Washer 4mm thick Top 46 63 1233524 $.49 ea.
Rubber Washer 11mm thick Bottom. 46 63 1233525 $2.43 ea

The washers are 18mm wide, the numbers and pricing is from "Bob's"

(Was going to ad pics but it won't let me?)

schrader7032
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Quote: (Was going to ad pics

Quote:

(Was going to ad pics but it won't let me?)

You've added pictures before on other posts...shouldn't be an issue with this website. Unless you're trying to link in pictures from some other website...there might be restrictions from that website.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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Original side covers with cut out

I should have looked at my old photos of the original side covers. Here they are.

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skychs
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Cables

Today I will be working on all the cables and hand controls. Im really struggling because I can't find anything in the books or manuals on how to route this stuff. I took a ton of photos while I was taking everything apart but it didn't capture every position or turn of the cables. I find myself looking over the photos for hours tracing each cable. If anyone has any insight or diagrams of the cables it will be greatly appreciated.

In regards to the hand controls. Most of that is coming together. Im still struggling with the little "wedge" that fell out of both of the Magura grips.

Ill try to post some photos later.

If I can get all the cables and hand controls in Id be really close to connecting the battery and seeing if it will fire up.

JakeF
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Southern California
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Cable routing

The cable routing is a tight mess. I had the same issue as you. I searched the internet and could find nothing to assist me. I ended up going to the local dealer who had a R90S in their collection and tried to use it as an example but what I have found is that after looking at a couple of other R90S no two were exactly the same. Best bet would be to find another R90S owner in your area who will let you look at their bike. Sending photos is of no help because of the complexity and density of the routing. If you can't find another reference bike my suggestion is to trust your instinct and follow the path of least resistance when routing.

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1956 R69, 1976 R90S, 2008 R1200GS

ksiemon
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Right Side Fuel Line Routing

The correct way to run your right line..............The site now will let me attach "one" photo!!!??? something is screwed!? did a bunch before on the rim arrows............

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ksiemon
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The Pres...........

Mac Kirkpatrick's bikes are in the 90S book...........is he OK? still in the club? It shows he's the President? All the 90S boy's are asking for help........what gives?

skychs
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Progress

JakeF ..... you are correct. The wires and cables are a mess. Every time I add something it all gets rearranged. Grrrrrr Im sure it will be a never ending process.

Anyway, after adding all the fluids yesterday ..... this morning I found the neutral switch on the bottom of the transmission was leaking. Luckily for me my local mechanic had a replacement but it wasn't easy. I had to remove the rear engine mount bolt, knock out the spacer then reach up and in to remove the switch. The new switch went in and seems to be holding up fine.

I also had a small leak on the two front brake calipers. I can't tell if its leaking from the bleeder valve or the line connection so I cleaned it up and will check it again in the am. Has anyone used any kind of teflon tape to help secure those (threads) connections? I rebuilt the front brake master cylinder and thought that would be my issue but so far so good. My fingers are crossed.

So .... with the battery connected today I turned on the ignition. All the lights (hi-low-running) worked. Both the front and rear brake lights also worked and the bike turned over. Those are all good signs. Tomorrow I plan on adding fuel to see if it will start.

More tomorrow.

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schrader7032
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I've read where people use

I've read where people use JBWeld to seal all around the plastic parts on the switch. Supposedly even the OEM switches can leak.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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leak

schrader7032 wrote:

I've read where people use JBWeld to seal all around the plastic parts on the switch. Supposedly even the OEM switches can leak.

I was wondering what was on the old switch when I pulled it out. To me it looked like anti-seize on the threads. My local mechanic said they usually start leaking at the connection between the bolt and the plastic and not the threads.

FYI .... there is a shop here in Richmond VA called Moto Europa. The guy who runs the shop used to work for a place called Velocity where they bought, serviced, restored and sold antique/vintage motorcycles. It was a great shop but didn't survive the hard times. Anyway, Dave Carmean is the owner and he knows antique/vintage motorcycles. In fact right now he is restoring (frame up restorations) three, not one .... not two ..... but three R90S's. The problem for me is I am further along with mine than his first. So every day I get something accomplished I run over there to see where he is.

Without help from VBMWMO and from Dave this restoration would take forever. Someone needs to write a maintenance book just for the R90-R90S. Filtering out all the other models in the one book I do have is a PITA. Smile

ksiemon
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Thread Sealant

First off DO NOT USE tape! That is used mostly for pipe threads. I know I've used miles of it in my career as well as pipe dope.
Any item that I have that has fluid in and it has a plug gets pipe dope added (unless it has a o-ring seal) gasket or not. I like RectorSeal
but any parts house has thread sealant. You can get liquid teflon if you like. If you caliper bleed screw is leaking pul it out and you may need to use a Q-tip with some valve grinding compound on the tip and go in and "lap it a bit"use steel wool on the bread screw. Then add a small amount of dope if you please. If you are sealing something that does't get removed Lock Tight is also a good sealant (Blue 242) If you use "Red" you'll need a touch to heat it up to get out what ever you sealed.
Don't remember any problems with the neutral switch. I'm not a hi-mileage airhead guy but put over 100.000 between the "S" and "RS"
If you get a new switch that should last the life of the bike.

We've talked before on service books. I have like three of the main ones. Also you can go back and research what other club members have done on this site, BMWMOA, Airheads. I'm not a RA member but I'm sure it's the same. The more you have ahead of time the better. I know your kind of under the gun and want to kick butt on your build.

The Best!

skychs
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video

Let me see if this works ....... two videos of the start up.

https://youtu.be/RP3ZJaLhses

https://youtu.be/MNjWOazvXM8

skychs
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Cables

So the bike is running. Huge step today but ......... I'm so unhappy with all the cables and wires I have decided (while the front end is still off) to redo it all. Its all together but its ugly. Back to the garage ....... Grrrrrrrr

Kieth .... thanks for all the photos. I will be looking at them in detail today and tomorrow.

ksiemon
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Cables

If I can help just give me a call. Can also take more pic's if you need.

Karl

skychs
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cables and gas cap

I think I finally got the cables sorted out. I tried my hardest to get the best "flow" that I could. As time goes on I will see how it all works out. Details Details Details.

I also tried to install the gas cap. While I was pushing the cap down and inserting the pin that holds on the cap the rivet/plug popped out and fell into the tank. The rivet was easy to get out but the washer was not. So .... from advise from a friend I replaced the rivet with a screw that tightened right up and seems to be working fine. Having a screw will also make it easier to replace the cork gasket if it doesn't seal up.

Next step .... install the petcocks. Connect the fuel lines, add fuel and fire it up.

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skychs
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Video

First test run was fine. Small fuel leak in one of the petcocks but its slowing down.

Sorry for the erratic throttle control.

https://youtu.be/kNmd-INhp7I

Im going to hook up the front turn signals then work out all the bugs before I put on the new fairing.

skychs
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Issues

I took the bike out today for a longer run. Ended up around 45-50 miles. I discovered an issue with the neutral light.

The neutral light is backwards. When its in gear it lights up. When its in neutral the light is out. Its a new switch. Thinking the two wires that connect to the switch were reversed I swapped them over. Still does the same thing. Any ideas?

The clutch needs some fine tuning and the front suspension needs some help but the bike is solid, quiet and tracks a straight line very well.

schrader7032
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There are two types of

There are two types of neutral switches...one pushes in to make contact, the other pushes out to make contact. The "innie" (#23-----153) was used up to the beginning of the '76 models while the "outie" (#61-----097) was used beginning with the 9/75 models. If you have the wrong one, it would react as you suggest.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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Switch

schrader7032 wrote:

There are two types of neutral switches...one pushes in to make contact, the other pushes out to make contact. The "innie" (#23-----153) was used up to the beginning of the '76 models while the "outie" (#61-----097) was used beginning with the 9/75 models. If you have the wrong one, it would react as you suggest.

Thank you sir. Sounds like that may be the issue. I will keep you posted.

skychs
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Neutral switch

As expected ... the neutral switch was swapped out and solved the problem. All is well.

While I was there I fixed the leaking final drive boot by simply tightening the clamps. After that the bike got its first bath to clean up all the dirt and grime. What a pleasure it is to ride.

In the next day or two I will install the front fairing. I think I have all the bugs worked out in regards to the front suspension and front end.

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
fairing

The front fairing went on today without issues. Well sort of. I had some issues with the clock and volt meter. Apparently I broke off the ground connection on the clock when I pulled everything apart. It took hours to figure everything out. The physical installation of the fairing was much easier than coming off. Anyway, everything is on. I followed these directions.

To avoid cracking the fairing when stretching it over the second turn-signal stalk, please follow the instructions below:
- Place the black rubber washer on the stalks and bring it onto the thicker portion of stalk.
- Install fairing on one of the stalks ( the hole of the fairing will reach past the skinny part of the stalk) This is required to allow the fairing to stretch over the other stalk. The fairing will only stretch by very little before it cracks, believe me, mine caused a small crack because I thought the U-shape washer belongs on the outside, NOT SO!
-Next, place eccentric washer over stalks into fairing on both sides.
- Make adjustments to the eccentric washer and secure the top brackets
- Move the black rubber washer (on the inside of the fairing) and slip it over the eccentric washer on both sides. There is only 4mm of the eccentric washer poking out so just wiggle it in place.
- Install the U-shaped washer, from the top, over the black rubber washer on the inside. This secures the U-shape washer to ride up against the wider part/edge of the stalk.
- Place thick metal washer on the outside up against the eccentric washer.
- Install turn signals ( PLEASE note that the turn signals have different depths so make sure you install the correct signal casings to make sure the clamp will secure properly.
- Voila, job done! Applause
- The U-shape washer is designed for a specific reason to be installed after the fairing is in place. This washer can not be installed first as it creates to much washer thickness so stretching the fairing is impossible. The fairing needs to filt over the thicker portion of the stalk initially.
See final pictures of inside picture and an inside picture taken from underneath showing the U-shaped washer. The outside pic shows the thick 3mm washer between eccentric washer.fairing and turn-signal.
If the 3mm washer is on the inside, the fairing would not have been able to stretch over the stalk. If you did however, I am surprised your fairing has not cracked below the hole as you pull on it. The fairing can not be stretched 2" !!!! It will crack!!!

Worked like a charm.

The only thing left is to figure out the electrical wiring to the front turn signals. Ok ... then the tank and tail BMW badges.

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skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
photos

Thought I would add some photos. The badges are on. The new windshield is on. Everything seems to be falling in place. The only real issue left are the front turn signals. The PO wired all the signals as running lights with dual element bulbs. All the lights in the rear work fine. The two front signals are still giving me trouble. One blinks but will not run. The other runs but will not blink. Grrrrrrrr

After I figure that out i will run it over to my local mechanic guru and get hime to fine tune everything. I have almost 500 miles on the bike since restoration and Im loving every mile.

Oh, I added the front fork brace that came on the bike but I haven't been able to check it out on the road yet.

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khittner
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VBMWMO #8223
Joined: 02/15/2012
Posts: 367
Looks very nice! Daytona

Looks very nice! Daytona Orange is simply the way they were meant to be.

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Konrad

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
Last photos

To finish the restoration I took some photos today.

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skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
Couple more

Enjoy

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