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mcsherry1328
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VBMWMO #1328
Madison, WI
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 81

I'm preparing my fuel tank for paint, but first would like to coat the inside of the tank. Whatever was there seems to be gone. I have used Redcoat and didn't like it. It was very translucent red and I was hoping for something better. Any suggestions ? Thanks, Michael

brownbmw
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VBMWMO #7491
So. Cal.
Joined: 01/03/2009
Posts: 88
I've used the Kreem tank

I've used the Kreem tank prep. Works well.

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6270
I've used the Caswell tank

I've used the Caswell tank sealing kit, although it was for a select location that showed a leak on my R25/2. All went well.

I don't have a whole lot of experience otherwise, but I've heard negative things about Kreem...not being able to handle the ethanol fuel. I suppose it's hearsay but that's what I've heard. The POR-15 seems to get better marks.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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VBMWMO #7677
Joined: 08/05/2009
Posts: 991
Kreem delaminates,use the POR

Kreem delaminates,use the POR

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

312Icarus
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Joined: 07/15/2016
Posts: 273
I’ve had great luck with

I’ve had great luck with RedKote, assuming you do it carefully,and follow the instructions.

Icarus

brownbmw
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VBMWMO #7491
So. Cal.
Joined: 01/03/2009
Posts: 88
I haven't done a lot of

I haven't done a lot of tanks, but never had an issue with Kreem. It is a process, not just a coating so maybe some users were not thorough in the "prep" stages. As with any/all products, follow instructions.
I always send tanks to a radiator shop first to have the inside cleaned. It saves a lot of time and effort and does a much better job than shaking rocks or bolts around in it.

My point is not to hype the Kreem brand, but to do the job correctly and thoroughly whatever you use.

Littlemicrocars
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VBMWMO #9343
Joined: 11/11/2017
Posts: 21
tank renew

I have been successful using chrome wheel acid..(hydro floric) ...It only eats rust and not bare metal... I seal the tank with rubber plugs. It cost about 5 to 6 dollars a gallon and can be used over and over. I clean mine with paint filters. I put the tank in a plastic tub in case of a badly rusted area might leak thru the tank. and cover it with plastic.in a well vented area.... time line is about a day or two. that is filled to the brim...I have used 50 to 100 ball bearings thrown in the tank for good measure. on bad tanks.. rolling the tank around slowly for impact.. when your done save the acid back in to its containers... ( well vented area) . Do not touch or breathe anything with florides that's a no no. After draining your tank you can hose it out. and stick it in your oven to dry overnight.. the pilot light is enough to do the job. if the wife is not around low heat will work for an hour. I use por 15 about a qt.... if the tank has a hole.you can put some tape over the hole. the por 15 is thick and will seal in about a 1/2 hour.. I like to drain out any access, and let it air out. use only rubber at the petcock hole , do not thread a bolt in or you will never get it out. the inside of the tank seal will be about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. and permanent to any fuel... reuse your acid for other tasks. use extreme caution. eye protection. breathing protection, handling protection, acid is not for alloys. it will burn the polished surface. another way is taking it to a business that does dry ice blasting. ( a very very good way of cleaning all engine, frame sheet metal parts.Leo

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