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hooverbj
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As I mentioned in an earlier post, I want to put lower handle bars (replacing the high bars) that were on the bike when I got it. Is there a way to remove the bar end signals without tearing into the clusterF*@! of wires in the headlight shell?
Thanks,
Brian Hoover
1966 R50/2
Cedar City, Utah

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
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According to the wiring

According to the wiring diagram Vech has on his site, there is a single wire for each side that gets its connection at the flasher that is installed inside the headlight bucket. The single wire carries power to the bulb...it's ground at the other end of the bulb. So, probably not a good idea to just leave the wires floating around since they have power at the end of them.

Are you going to reuse the bar end signals on the low bars? If that's the case, you can just pull them out, install the new bars, and reroute the wires to the bar ends. IIRC the wire runs on the inside of the bar...a small hole is drilled near the headlight which allows the wire inside the bars.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

hooverbj
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Yes, I'm going to replace the

Yes, I'm going to replace the bar end signals; Haven't dived into it yet, so I'm just asking questions in advance. Thanks!

Twocams
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On mine, took the plug out of

On mine, took the plug out of the end. One of the lens covers needs to be removed to get bulb out? The wire coming into the signal has a small screw ( spring also?) to remove the wire. Once the bulb is removed and end cap. If you look deep inside you well see a screw head with wire going threw. This also is to loosen and tighten the lite fixture to the bar ends.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

hooverbj
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I talked to Richard at Vech.

I talked to Richard at Vech. When he asked if I was going to keep my old high bars, and I said no, assuming that I would prefer the new low ones. He said good, because I could hacksaw the old ones off. Why would I have to cut them off? I see the chrome clamps that hold the bars in place are one piece. Does this mean they don't open up enough to allow new bars without breaking?

Twocams
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I think that is possible for

I think that is possible for them to break. But mine also chipped some of the chrome by opening and closing on one. The other I heated up some with a heat gun/didnt chip the chrome. But these were my old ones that were re chromed.

twocams

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69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

schrader7032
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Duane has talked about these

Aren't you going to have to open up the clamps to get the low bars on? Why destroy something that someone in the future could use...possibly you in umpteen years?

Duane has talked about these in the past...I'm sure Vech has experience as well. The originals from the factory could be spread open and closed with no issues. The aftermarket not so much.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Clamps

I'll jump in here just because I am doing the same thing on my bike (same as yours) but 1 year older.

I also have bar end signals and high bars. They came out easily as mentioned above. I pulled the wires out of the handlebars and labeled them after I got the signals out. The handlebar came off easily, too. No need to cut anything. Not sure If I am going to re-plate my clamps or replace but they opened up plenty far to get them off the bar.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

hooverbj
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bstratton, Were you able to

bstratton,
Were you able to remove the clutch assembly and throttle assembly, with out undoing any of the cables? I haven't gotten into it yet, but I was hoping to do so without having to re-adjust the cables on both sides. I was also hoping I could just let things dangle while I put new bars on? Probably will attack the job over Thanksgiving...if the new bars get here.
Thanks,
Brian

skychs
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signals

I just did the opposite. I took the low bars off and installed the high bars with the Hella turn signals. If your high bars have the cross over you will have to spread the risers to slip it out. If you do not have a cross over the bars will slide right out. To spread the top of the riser ...... add a second nut to the base. Secure it in a vise. Heat the riser then spread it apart using a punch or long (strong) screwdriver. Mine did not crack or mark the riser in any way. Don't forget you may have to swap out all the cables for the shorter bars.

Hooverbj ....... if you loosen the risers you can slide the bars left or right. If you do that the clutch/throttle controls should slide right off. If not, take the screws out of the levers and remove the tops of the cables. Keep tension on the throttle cables or they can slide out of position inside the carb.

I love the look of the low bars/signals but IMHO the bike handles much better with the high bars. With the handles spread further apart I have better leverage/control at low speeds and in the twisties. They also allow me to loosing up the friction lock for easier movement. If Im correct .... most US models shipped to the states had the high bars.

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stagewex
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True. The high bars were

True. The high bars were shipped on all '68's & 69's on the US Models (thus US High bars).
When I first bought my bike it came with the low Euro bars. Really looks fantastic but for comfort I switched back to the high US bars. really made for a somewhat bigger cockpit position for me not leaning forward (down) all the time. That was fine around town but when I take her on 150+ mile day rides the ergonomics have to be as comfortable as possible. Besides, it restored the original shipped look to the bike as well. But I know folks that have done the opposite (hi to low bars) and like that better.

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1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

schrader7032
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The background on my R69S is

The background on my R69S is that it was purchased by a US serviceman in Germany. It was ridden over there then shipped back to the US. I suspect that the original owner opted for US bars at time of purchase and the dealer obliged. I prefer riding behind a fairing (my /7 and my R69S) so sitting more upright has always worked for me.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

hooverbj
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Thanks everyone, I managed

Thanks everyone,
I managed to get the old high bars off without breaking the clamps. They seemed to be more pliable than I imagined.

But I did manage to break both bar end signals...I'm sure they were Chinese, not Hella...I cracked one of the slotted tabs on the left signal. On the other, the small plastic cylinder that holds the electrical contact came undone and I fiddled with it to realize that there was a small brass connector inside with a set screw that holds the wire in place. I redid that with a miniature screwdriver and when I went to reassemble the tab no longer sprung back and forth. When I put the spring in first followed by the plastic tab, it just jammed in place and no longer moved, and thus couldn't hold the bulb in place without the proper tension. I'm looking to purchase new ones now. I see some original Hella ones going for $179 on Ebay. I'm sure mine were knock-offs. however the cheap ones come pre-wired. My problems occurred, because I was attempting to re-wire my old ones and was using miniature screwdrivers to do the work. I would rather not go down that path again.
I also have to replace all my cables with shorter ones now.
Despite all that... I am ticked with the new lower bars!

skychs
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Cables

I hope your comment about being ticked is a positive one and not ticked off ??

This may help for the install.

http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articles/howto/signal.html

Capital Cycle sells a complete cable set for around $75.00.

hooverbj
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Skychs, What I meant to say

Skychs,
What I meant to say was tickled--Lick ha, ha...very happy!

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