3 replies [Last post]
Robb LaVelle
Robb LaVelle's picture
Joined: 10/01/2017
Posts: 6

I am about 80% through a top to bottom rebuild of my 1980 R65. I have had the the final drive professionally rebuilt and the wheels blasted and clear powder coated. I had new bearings pressed in when I had new tires installed.

I am now remounting the rear wheel but finding that when installing the rear axel until it bottoms out and torquing the axel nut to spec, the gap between the wheel and then final drive is tight and there is friction between the two parts. The wheel barely spins.

I tried laying the bike on its side to ensure the wheel and final drive splines seat properly but still no improvement. At this point I am thinking of pulling the bearings and reinstalling them myself.

Any ideas?



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Twocams's picture
VBMWMO #8750
Joined: 03/16/2014
Posts: 698
Is the final drive hard to

Is the final drive hard to turn by itself? Or just when the wheel is mounted? When I replaced a seal in my final drive on my R69S when building my bike. I put the drive all back together it would hardly turn with and without the wheel on. Some directions I found/ may have been in the Book. Said to slam the final drive down on some 2 by 4s to seat things. I slammed it down (firmly) couple times and it was OK and been working for the last yr. Not sure if this helps you or not.



69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

mark_weiss's picture
Joined: 11/17/2013
Posts: 173
There should be a spacer

There should be a spacer extending through the seal on the inner side of the wheel. This spacer sets the hub's distance from the final drive. The spacer has a ridge at one end and is normally installed with the ridge toward the inside. The ridge keeps the spacer from falling out of the seal. Spacers are available in a few different lengths, perhaps yours is missing or incorrect.



Randolph's picture
Joined: 01/14/2015
Posts: 33
bearing preload

Besides making sure the "tophat" spacer is there as Mark suggests, you should also consider checking the bearing preload.
There's an article about /5 wheels by Duane Ausherman that is pertinent to all wheels that use the 30203 tapered bearing. There's a"wedding ring" spacer in the snowflake wheels that needs to be sized for proper preload. It's number 1 in the drawing and comes in different thicknesses.


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