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schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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I seem to be having a problem getting my front wheel back on my R69S. I tried to balance the tire with new rubber using my old school method but I had an imbalance that showed up above 60 mph...kinda scary!! So, I took it up to my dealer and asked him to balance. In the end, the tire was fine...it needed to additional weights...amazing.

We talked about the balance process and I mentioned that some balancers use a set of cones to squeeze the bearing stack together...he said they had those and he had to use them in my case. But to use the cones, he said he took parts of the bearings out...I sort of understood that and then left for home.

Today, I figured I'd better slip the tire in and button everything back up. I noticed though that the brake plate won't go all the way home...it bottoms out...to the tune of about 1-2mm. No matter what I do, it hits a solid stop and won't go all the way in.

I took a look at the bearings and seals on both sides. It's hard for me to tell if there's anything horribly wrong, but something tells me that the inside bearing/seal doesn't look right, and that the inside of the brake plate is hitting the end of the stack. Can anyone see anything wrong here? Anyone have good pictures of all of the parts from the hub out to see how they go together? I did the bearings when I first got the bike in 2005 but apparently I didn't take any pictures...certainly not digital.

I'll certainly be going back to the shop to ask what happened. Thanks...

Update...added a picture of the inside of the brake plate. On the inside of the brake plate, there is a standoff...almost looks like a washer, but it's part of the hub of the plate.

  • bearingleft.jpg
  • bearingright1.jpg
  • bearingright2.jpg
  • brakeplate.jpg
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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

dogwoodfarms
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bearings

Looked at my r69s wheel which was off the bike, my bearing on the brake side protrudes lees than that in the photo.

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Thanks...that would account

Thanks...that would account for things. I've looked at the rear wheel and the driver's left setup looks quite similar...I can't see the inside unless I take off the tire. Note that front and rear wheels can be swapped on the /2, especially when the tire sizes are the same, so that means that the axle/bearing setup should be the same. Because my bike is backed into a corner and supported in front by a floor jack, I can't remove the rear wheel for comparison.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

schrader7032
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Currently, I'm looking at the

Currently, I'm looking at the possibility that the two tophat spacers or sleeves were put on the wrong side. These are parts 7 and 12 on this figure:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0233-USA-04-1968-T69-BMW-R...

The #12 part actually says "Links" which is left in German. #9 says "Rechts" which is right, but I'm not sure how that works in this situation. I think the technician just removed the tophats and seals but got them install wrong.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

schrader7032
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Not really sure what the

Not really sure what the issue is. I took the wheel back to the dealer. When he balanced the wheel, he took off the threaded ring on the driver's side...the top hat stay with it. On the inside, he popped the seal...again the top hat stayed with it. So, there's no chance that the two top hats were switched. All else looked OK. The bearings were seated as they should have been. Not sure where to look next.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Daves79x
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Might Help

Kurt, sorry, I've not been paying as close attention to your thread here (and elsewhere) as I should have. In you photos, the inside spacer should be nearly flush with the seal - I just checked 2 of mine and they both are nearly flush. But what I can't tell is if your axle sleeve (reducing bushing) is still inside the wheel hub. The left side (at the screw-in seal carrier) should have the top-hat bushing protruding a few mm, with the reducing bushing inserted from that side and it's collar shouldering up against that slightly protruding top-hat bushing. All that should leave almost no bushing protruding from the other side, thus allowing your brake backing plate to fully seat.

It can be only one of two things - either the bearing stack is not fully seated (my guess) or the wrong bushing is in that side (or backwards, but you seem to have eliminated that possibility).

If you have a bolt long enough to insert through the bearing pack and hub, with washers and a nut, I'd try squeezing the bearing pack to see if it compresses. Whatever it is, the whole inner bearing stack, top-hat bushings, etc is just too wide right now.

Hope that helps, I've only rebuilt the wheels/bearings/hubs once last year and probably thought others here with far more experience would nail it right away.

Dave

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schrader7032
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Dave -The jury is still out.

Dave -

The jury is still out. Things that I can say is that I've run this bike since 2005 more or less as-is. I did take the bearings out when I first bought to refresh things. The other thing I can say is that the BMW tech said he just remove the two seal holders on each side of the hub in order to attach the cones to support the bearings so he could balance the tire. The top hats come off with the seals and were not swapped. So, I just don't see what has changed to create my situation. I'm beginning to wonder about the reducer bushing if that's the problem. I really don't know which side it is inserted from. The left side appears to be pretty normal when I compare to the rear wheel. Attached are images of the two sides when the seal holders are removed.

  • bearingleftnoseal.jpg
  • bearingrightnoseal.jpg
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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Daves79x
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OK

I think I see your problem. The reducing bushing is inserted from the wrong side. It should go in from the left side of the hub and shoulder up against the top-hat bushing. Looks like the shoulder is up against the bearing race on the right side and this is not allowing the seal/top-hat to be tapped in far enough. Reverse the reducing bushing and reinstall the seals/top-hats and you'll be good.

Dave

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Daves79x
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Oh, And

Oh, and you have to install the screw-in seal/top-hat carrier first before installing the reducing sleeve from that side.

Dave

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schrader7032
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The shoulder on the reducing

The shoulder on the reducing bushing is definitely contacting the inside of the brake plate. I confirmed that today by use a bit of grease and noticed that it transferred to the inside of the brake plate when I went to install it.

The BMW tech never mentioned pulling out the reducing bushing...just popping the seals. I'll have to recheck with them.

Thanks...

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
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Thanks for all the

Thanks for all the input...even got some help from the UK!! Love the internet!! So, the reducing sleeve was in backwards. I took the wheel with the sleeve installed properly back to the tech so we could all learn something. I assumed he had only removed just the seals on each side, but I asked point blank if the sleeve was also removed in order to put it on the balancing machine. He indicated he did...and just installed it the wrong way. I also had pictures from my Clymers which shows the sleeve on the front brake picture...it doesn't show on the page for wheels/bearings.

So, all is good. I've ordered new replacement seals from Vech since these seals have been in place for a dozen years and have been in/out a few times. Just want to start fresh.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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