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bstratton
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Here's an example

Nice looking bobber

  • vintage-bmw-motorcycle-1-625x417.jpg
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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

skychs
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seat and shocks

I can't wait to see how the green color turns out. One of my favorite colors.

In regards to the seat ... one option is a seat "cover" that can be taken on and off. I have one thats vinyl (cheap) that includes a foam pad for comfort but I guess you can have a leather one made as well. Just a thought.

EDit: After seeing the bobber photo that seat and tank pads are beautiful. Scratch the cover suggestion.

Thumbs up on the new shock inserts. You will love the ride.

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wa1nca
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Ashfield Ma.
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Paint

Go for it
Once it has been decided not to keep the original paint its is your Bike and you can paint it any color you like
If sold it is not original paint then the new owner can paint any color they may like and maybe bring it back to Black

My R51/3 is not the original paint but I really like the color
When and if I do repaint my bike It will most likely be a similar blue color

Tommy
Tried to load pic's but not working at this time new server bump?

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

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Quote: Tried to load pic's

Quote:

Tried to load pic's but not working at this time new server bump?

Hmmm...others seem to be able to upload pics. Thinking

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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attachments

I have never had a problem adding pic
Will restart my pc and try again later

Tommy

Please Delete
Tommy

  • dsc04100.jpg
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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

bstratton
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headlight mounted mirrors

I like the look and will probably install them. My bike came with the single handlebar mounted mirror that sits up high on the left side, which probably is more practical but looks a little goofy. Are they really as useless as I have read?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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I have always been riding

I have always been riding motorcycles with two mirrors, left and right. When I first got my R69S, I decided to remove the two handlebar mounted mirrors and go with the single left-side mirror screwed into the spot on the perch. I kept looking over to the right for my other mirror...freaked me out. So I went back to two mirrors.

I have headlight mounted mirrors on my R25/2...I kind of like them. Since the R25/2 is a moving roadblock, I'm driving more out of the rear mirrors than up front. I find them at least useful and will stay with them.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Painting wheels

Finally got to my wheels. Got them all apart this weekend and cleaned up except the rims. That is next. Hoping they will clean up to where I can paint them. Which raises the question: Would I paint the inside (under the tube) the same as the outside? There are tiny serrations on the inside of the shoulders that look functional. Like they help keep the tire from slipping on the rim and I would think that the paint would fill them. My rims are chromed steel and pretty rusty. The chrome is everywhere including inside. When I blast the rims I am sure that chrome will all disappear. There is some corrosion on the inside as well. I am sure I need to apply some sort of protective coating but not sure how to approach that unless I just paint it all.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Speedo Rebuild

My speedometer is a little rough looking. I don't know if it works. I can polish up the decorative chrome ring and the gless cleans up pretty well but the gasket inside (was probably once white) that goes around the edge of the face is grungy and moldy.

I suspect I will be sending this out for a rebuild. I have searched this forum and found a few sources. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Also maybe a rough guess on cost and lead time.

Thanks in advance

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

MikeL46
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Headlight mirrors

With low bars the headlight mirrors are great. Maybe the best mirrors I've had on a motorcycle. Can't say how they might work with higher US style bars.

Mike

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67 R50/2 w/R100 engine/trans and Ural Sidecar
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar

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As of Now

As of now, the go-to guy seems to be Joe's Speedometer in CA. He was N. Hollywood's guy for some time and still may be who they send the /2 stuff to. You can deal directly with him. He has my Viegel right now.

Dave

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Thanks Dave

Joes was also recommended by Vech. My speedo is on the way. He quoted me $235 - Very reasonable. I contacted others (Bobs) that did not specialize in VDO and was given numbers in the $400 to $600 range. Spoke to Joe (not sure that is his real name) seems like a very nice guy. I did find out that Repros set up for MPH and with trip odometers are not available. You guys probably already knew that.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Status update

Got my top end back from the shop (Max BMW in Northampton, NH). They have a shiny new machine shop there. Took a long time to turn around but the work looks very good. Hoping to get it together this weekend and put it aside. Transmission and final drive are clean and ready to re-install. I did not tear them down as I did not see any reason to. No leaks or any other obvious problems. Gave up on rims - too rusty. New aluminum rims on the way, wheel hubs all cleaned up. New wheel bearings. New spokes - ready to lace them up and true them. The wheel bearing adjustment shims and spacer from Cycle Works worked very nicely. Also got the swing arm bearings (front and rear) out. Again, the tool from Cycle Works was very effective. Same with removing he drive shaft coupling. Both swing arms are ready for blasting.

Tins next. I have body work to do on front fender. The back side of the fender has been damaged and crudely repaired in the past. I think I can straighten it all out with some patience and luck. I understand the fundamentals of working sheet metal but don't have the experience to be confident. I do have an old pro available to provide guidance but I want to do this myself. The rolled lip at the back will be a challenge. The rest of the tins look pretty good but won't know for sure until the paint is all off. Headlight bucket has been replaced with one that was once green. They painted it black without removing the ignition cover. Over-spray inside the bucket is also green. Luckily it is in great shape. I rubbed through the black in a few other places (tank, rear fender and frame). The rest of the bike has been black from the beginning . Front fender damage and new headlight bucket suggests a crash at some point in the life of the bike so I'll need to examine the frame and fork carefully. I'll put up a few before and after pics so you can rate my body work and paint.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Frame question

Got the frame blasted. All looks very good but noticed one of my rear foot-peg mounts was brazed on. The joint looks fine. My question is should I grind it off and weld it? Or is a brass joint OK for that purpose? I would post a pic but having trouble with that function.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Captonzap
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If there are no cracks, leave

If there are no cracks, leave it alone.
The problem with trying to weld over a brazed joint is that the brass has permeated the steel, and if you want a sound weld, you have to grind out ALL the brass, or else the brass will contaminate the weld steel.
There are numerous bikes and cars with brazed joints in the primary structure. Granted, the filler metal is usually silicon bronze, which is stronger than brass, but a properly done quality brass joint is usually strong enough for its designed application. The trick is to have a lot of surface area that the brass can adhere to, and thick fillets at the edges.

CZ

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Update

Been a while. Had some other things (life) distract me from this project for a while but finally made progress. Frame is painted and ready to be re-assembled. Motor has been completely restored - New slingers, bearing and seals, statically timed, valves adjusted, electrics cleaned, points replaced and gapped, transmission cleaned, rear drive cleaned, all wheel bearings replaces, hubs cleaned, new stainless spokes and aluminum rims, new Metzler tires, new Pagusa seat, new exhaust (complete), new headlight mounted mirrors, new low handlebars, new valve covers, crash bar, headlight trim ring, many new nuts, bolts, caps, etc...

Just need to paint the tins and some other insundry parts, rebuild carbs, then put her all back together. And maybe find a new retirement plan.

Still can't post pics so I'll put them out in the cloud and post a link - later.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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crack in both headlight bucket mounts

Very close to finishing the prime coat on all my tins and a second top coat on the frame. I found a little crack on both headlight bucket ears from the upper edge down to the knurled bolt hole. Is that "normal" for these bikes of this age? I don't have a tig or mig welder - just an old school arc welder so I think I will just braze them (on the inside, of course). I do have oxy-acetylene torches. Any suggestions for a better remedy?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
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bstratton
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Horn

So I did end up brazing my headlight bucket mounts (ears). Seems to have worked nicely.

I finally got both my wheels done - new bearings and seals - new spokes, rims, tubes and tires. Oh, and new hubcaps. What a PITA it was putting those tires on! Felt like I was going to bend the rims. Metzler Block Cs.

Getting to the real details, now. It looks like my horn is original. It can come apart by taking a few screws out that attach the front to the back.. One of my electrical connectors is broken. The stud broke when i tried to take the retaining nut off to remove the wires. In the experience of this group is that something worth repairing (assuming it works)? I can't find any internal parts for it so my guess is that i will have to fabricate a new wiring stud? If I do get it working I will probably have to paint it. The rest of the bike looks too good.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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Steering tension adjuster

The bike is finally coming together. I am assembling the frame. I would like to re-chrome the long steering adjuster screw (with the star shaped top). There are two balls on the bottom of the star shaped part that are spring loaded. I'm sure they are meant to work as detents. On mine one of them looks like the spring is broken or missing. It moves freely inside it's hole. I don't see anything about this in the Barrington bible.

Has anyone ever removed them? If so, how would I go about it? The fisch doesn't show a clip or anything but there must be something there I am not seeing...

Thanks in advance....

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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Never mind

Before you think I lost my marbles - I found the subject covered on page 410 of the Barrington book. Of course

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Project Update

Tank and fenders painted, polished and off to the pin striper in Amesbury on Saturday past. I did all the body work and painting myself so even though it isn't "concourse quality" I am very happy with the end result. The front fender was pretty mashed at the bottom of the rear part and had been crudely repaired so I did the best I could but any close inspection will show some wavy parts.

All my sub-assemblies are built and ready for installation so building this bike should go pretty quickly. This is my favorite part of the process. All the hard work starts to show as it begins to take the shape of a motorcycle again.

Went to a small show in Mansfield, MA yesterday. Brought my '71. It was hosted by the VJMC so not a lot of German Bikes but there was a very nice R27 survivor there. It didn't dawn on me to ask the owner if he was part of this community. He did know my pin striper.

Expecting my tins back in a week or so. Unless I bump into a real problem, I may have a bike to test drive in a couple weeks. Maybe sooner. Very exciting! I still can't attach pics so I have a few links here. They seem to work OK.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11r8doMCxzV51iE2m8AWD70Vt9DNoxJN3/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-FaPYF2wMAJBlJJyBpJQflHK1WYHlzm/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14MSIOdKaodgpsFwg1roNnI_nglqKwxdK/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RoGf82zZVnAknbRt_cAsgOcMB5KSbb_S/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1onIlW9ToJlSy8xRg3uSmG-E6kvBdFqR2/view?u...

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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pin stripe pics

Gotta love the work he does. Reasonable, too

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gXAuIL5guZl5nxmBgd_LXDvargk8QEXo

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

skychs
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Progress

bstratton wrote:

Gotta love the work he does. Reasonable, too

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gXAuIL5guZl5nxmBgd_LXDvargk8QEXo

Its all coming together. Great job. Its actually my favorite part of restoration ..... putting all the new parts back together and on the bike.
Now watch it grow. Smile

It brings back memories.

  • img_7039.jpg
  • img_7137.jpg
bstratton
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Front shocks

Frame is together and wheels are on. Finally looking like a motorcycle again.

As I was moving it around (very limited space in my basement shop) I noticed as I rolled it over a threshold, the front shocks are feeling like the inserts are not working - at all.

If I exercise them by putting my weight on them enough to compress them a couple inches or so, they expand very quickly to the limit of their movement and "bang" to a stop. I would have expected them to act like any other hydraulic insert and dampen the return a bit. I did it a bunch of times to get the fluid moving and account for sitting in a horizontal position for so long but no change

Shock inserts are new.

Am I to be concerned here? There is no motor or transmission or anything but swing-arms and wheels on the bike so the front springs are not compressed at all. The rear shocks, although much less "throw" do seem to work as expected - also new inserts.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Daves79x
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Don't Worry

Once you get the weight of the engine and all in the bike, it will be fine. Be aware, however, the new shocks will likely be somewhat stiffer than the nice, compliant originals (when they were new).

Dave

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bstratton
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Thanks Dave

I will relax a bit now. I was contemplating the thought of disassembling those shocks again. It wasn't fun the first time. I fabricated a tool similar to what Cycle Works sells and it works fine but it is very hard to avoid damaging the paint on the (newly painted) upper shrouds. Motor and transmission will go in this weekend.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Project Update

Project is coming along nicely. This is the part I will remember when contemplating another project. I always seem to forget about the endless cleaning, sanding, media blasting, polishing and spending of money.

A few notes for anyone following this thread that may be contemplating taking on a similar project:

The following paragraph applies only to single stage polyurethane finishes like Nason Full Thane. Always use a good respirator and Nitrile gloves. If you can smell them while using them you are not using the correct respirator. This stuff and the solvents required are not good for you.

Doing the body work and painting yourself can be very frustrating but it can also be very rewarding and can save a handy bit of money. I probably took 3 times longer or more than a pro would have taken to get the tins into shape for painting. I also re painted more than one part because I wasn't happy with the outcome but with a little patience and determination it can be done in a way that looks like a real pro did the job. Buy decent guns and metal working tools and do a lot of research and you will develop enough skill do do a basic paint job that you will be proud of. It is particularly nice to know that the compliments you get are not for the money you spent but the work you did. If you have access to a paint booth it will save you a lot of time and aggravation. Otherwise you need to do it outdoors and hope the birds, pollen, insects, wind... cooperates. If you don't want any orange peel you will likely need to do a little fine sanding and polishing afterwards. Laying on a nice think layer of paint will help. You can do multiple coats in one event. Just let them flash between coats as per manufacturer data sheet. The real trick is to figure out how "wet" you can lay it on without running or sagging. That balance is the sweet spot that will provide a glassy finish with minimal or no orange peel. The paint I used self levels nicely if wet enough. Mix exactly as per the data sheet.

I replaced the wiring harness with a new one from BMW. The Barrington book states that most reproduction harness will have leads too long and they will need to be trimmed, stripped and re-tinned. i spent a little extra and got the one from BMW. It came with a wiring diagram all in German. It fit perfectly. I needed to make no modifications at all.

Replacing the rims and spokes is easier than you might think. You can fabricate a truing stand without much effort. Be careful, take pictures, measure your offset and have at it. My first wheel took me probably half a day. That was partly because I was using the original rim and it had seen some hard times. On this bike I replaced spokes and rims. It took me about an hour to lace up both rims and maybe an hour each to true them. The process is very logical. The right state of mind is critical. You can't feel rushed or stressed or intimidated. Once you get one under your belt the "intimidated" part goes away. Oh, and buy a real spoke wrench. They are cheap enough and a "normal" wrench will not do the job. Chances are that if you are replacing the spokes, they are rusty and not safe. You can save a TON of time by cutting them off. small bolt cutter do a very nice job.

Before disassembling the bike take at least a million (or more) pictures from all angles. Then as you disassemble take pictures all along the way. You can't take too many. i put them in a folder on my laptop and organize by component. When re-assembling I have that, the BMW parts fiche site and the Barrington book at my disposal. It is all I needed. If you have confidence that the wiring is correct or mostly correct, document that, too. Make drawings of each wired component - then take a picture of the drawings you made and put it in the picture folders. That was incredibly helpful for me. When you disassemble - get a box of big strong freezer baggies - the ones with a label area and bag everything organized and labeled to get you back there a year or more later. Even with that organization, you will still spend a LOT of time looking for specific parts (and wondering what you were thinking putting this part in that bag!)

Replacement parts in general but specifically stainless nuts and bolts vary in quality. Many can be sourced at your local hardware store for FAR less than ordering from BMW. The parts fiche often provides the exact size of the nuts bolts and washers.

The Barrington book and the tools from Cycle Works (and others) are worth every penny and more.

This forum and others are a valuable source of information as is you tube but as with all things, consider the source and be discriminating in what you use.

i could go on...

Here is a pic. Be gentle, please

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bDblf8N6dPBffHK4QOzvbdvvz14tbIqk

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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tool box key blank

I am planning on taking my tool box door to a locksmith to have a key made. Does anyone here know what blank is correct? If not, an image of a key next to a ruler might work. I think i will have better success if I come prepared

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Here's my key...it is 49.5mm

Here's my key...it is 49.5mm long. On the back side is says Neiman.

  • neiman_key_slash2_tank.jpg
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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Jim D 5112
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Key Blank

Use a JMA - NE7 or ILCO - Y61 look on eBay and he will combine shipping.

bstratton
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thanks

this is a big help. Local locksmiths here that I have talked to are not familiar with old bikes. I figure if I show up with a couple blanks they might have a shot at helping me out.

I have no reason to believe the lock was ever replaced on the tool box lid. Rivets are intact so I am hoping the key will also work in the fork lock.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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wiring diagram help

Here is another small problem one of you may be able to shed some light on.

My new harness came with a wiring diagram all in German. The diagram shows the entire bike - not just the main harness - which is great. I was able to translate the colors listed in the legend but there are a couple references on the wiring diagram that are a little confusing. This is the Kabelbaum R50 - R69S (6V) diagram. PN 61 11 8 066 035.

As always the colors are abbreviated in the (black and white) diagram. Most references make sense except "GR" or "GE"

Most of this is easy: GN = green, SW = black, WS = White, BL = Blue, BR = Brown, RT = red and then there are all the combinations for striped wires.

This is what I am not confident on: "GR" and "GE". I see GE shown alone (terminal 56b on high-low switch to headlight high or low)and in combination with GN (directional switch to blinker relay) and with WS (feed to high low switch). I only see GR on the sidecar connection. It looks like a ground connection.

I know this isn't rocket science but I'd like to be as close to correct as possible. I have searched the forum but have not found a lot that is helpful. Just looking for the correct colors for GE and GR

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Found it!

Sorry for the fire drill but I finally found the answers to this little puzzle

GE = yellow
GR = grey
There is no yellow or grey in the main wiring harness so they are not listed in the legend.
In case anyone is interested.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

flr69s
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Yes, correct! GR stands for

Yes, correct! GR stands for Grau, = grey; and GE stands for Gelb = yellow.

Anything else you need to be translated (or checked), just let me know, glad to help.
Great project your are achieving there!

Best regards,
Frank

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Frank Louwers (Belgium) 1967 R69S

bstratton
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Project Update - new pic

Getting very close!

Still can't just add pics so here is a link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y_Ef_EHOh3Tu9Yijy7Rpwr8jDpzAtcch/view?u...

I am going to get this all together with stock bulbs and new battery just to check the operation of the generator. Then I plan to switch to LED bulbs. Staying with 6 volt system.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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air cleaner - chrome or paint

Getting down to the nitty gritty.

I have seen and like the look of the chromed air cleaner cover. I know i risk making the bike look "over-restored" but damn it The black-chrome combination always caught my eye and the rest of the bike is looking pretty nice.
Was that an option from the factory or is it something people just did because they could? Mine was originally painted, which isn't bad either - and certainly simpler and less expensive. I think that if it was actually available in chrome from the factory, I may go get it done along with my intake tubes.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
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schrader7032
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Doubt it was a factory

Doubt it was a factory option.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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Ashfield Ma.
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Chrome air cleaner

IMO
I like the factory air cleaner
Chrome air cleaner just doesn't look good to me

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

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Thanks

Kurt I think you're right. I just found it mentioned in the Barrington book. I guess I'll just stick with paint.

Tommy - my first bike (with a transmission) was a Puch. Probably a little older than yours. I had a mini-bike before that.

I remember at the age of 13 or 14 ordering all the parts for a clutch from Sears. There were a LOT of parts involved. They trickled in for months - I never finished that job. Ended up just riding without a clutch. I also learned that the reason my head gasket kept blowing is because there wasn't supposed to be a head gasket. I removed it and it ran great. Don't remember what ever happened to it. Ahh good times!

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

skychs
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Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 266
air cleaner clean up

This is what I did with my chromed air cleaner. R60/2 I like the painted version much better.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/14714#comment-45654

bstratton
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directional switch Kaput - need a replacement

I have the feeling this may become a problem

My bike has (had) a directional switch that could be pushed for the horn. It pretty much disintegrated when I disassembled it. It has a flat spot on the perch for the support. The support is fine.

It looks a lot like the directional - starter switch on my slash5 but a little different.

I see nothing on the BMW Fiche or on Banchmarkworks catalog. I have reached out to Vech and my local MaxBMW parts guru. Now you guys. If anyone has a potential source for this can you please chime in here.

Thanks in advance

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6666
If you strike out with US

If you strike out with US sources, then might have to consider something like S. Meyer or Uli's overseas. I'm not aware of too many places that have pre /5 used parts here in the US.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Found one

Thanks Kurt,

My MaxBMW parts guru just got back to me with good news. He can get me one.

Now my issue is the cover on the throttle mechanism. I didn't think that would be an issue because they show it on their Fiche with a price. Apparently they are NLA. He is going to look for a used one but in the event we can't find one I can get by with what I have with a little repair work.

If he comes up empty, I'll try the overseas sources you mentioned.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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This is it!

All that is left to do is install the battery and check electrical function, fill it with oil, put a little gas in the tank and kick it over. Very exciting. I believe the last time this bike ran was in the late 80s.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1az-YDZ5DQwSXnbGLjVBYDax06oaPYBYE

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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It's Alive!

She fired up without much drama. Just needed to get the carbs close enough to get her to tick over and stay running. Initially very rich and flooded immediately. Just moving the slides up a bit with idle stops made a big difference.

All electrical functions were good except I managed to swap the leads to red and green indicator lights. Easy fix. Generator seems strong and regulator operating correctly. Lights are nice and bright (for 6 volts lights).

First ride was uneventful - except for the absolute exhilaration. Everything worked perfectly. Smooth and predictable. A delight to ride.

I have a little noise coming from the right side of the motor. It increases when there is no load and when decelerating but a little less then. Doesn't seem to affect the operation of the motor. I will see if there is oil there when I re-torque heads and re-adjust valves and see what happens. Cylinders were bored 1-over, new pistons and rings, complete valve job-both heads. I also rebuilt the entire lower end of the motor. The only thing I didn't change was big-end bearings on the connecting rods at the crank. There was no perceptible play there. Also changed one tappet due to pitting.

Really hoping for a simple resolution to the problem. If not may have to pull the cylinder and take a closer look at tappets.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Top end noise

Couldn't find any obvious issues with the rocker train. Side to side play is good and free full range movement on both rockers. Plenty of oil in the valve cover. After the head bolts were re-torqued and valves re-adjusted - same noise. Right side only. Sounds very much like too much valve clearance but it seems to double in frequency sometimes. Yes I am sure I adjusted the valves at TDC on compression stroke. Have a friend coming over for a second set of eyes but it looks like I may need to get into it a little deeper.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Video link - noisy top end on right side after rebuild

Please take a look. Any thoughts? Going to dig deeper tonight.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1exGvAd7dN1AgbFjByWioblUl1x5M_jg6

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Found a forum discussion from 2014

Very similar symptoms and circumstances. Some of you guys were involved.

Was going to tear down that side of motor tonight and check the tappets for cracking. Now I'll break out the micrometers and check piston-to-cylinder clearance, too.

http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/11542

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

312Icarus
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Posts: 349
Have you listened with a

Have you listened with a stethoscope? I would remove the front generator cover and make sure it is not coming from the generator/timing systems before I pulled it too far apart. That said, I also wouldn’t run it too much without figuring it out. It sounds a bit too tinny to my ear to be rocker/valve lash noise. I assume you checked wrist pin bushings?

Finally, as Vech told me, if you can’t figure it out, tear it down. You don’t want to damage you crank...a very expensive proposition. My squeal noise turned out to be a squeaking motor mount, but it took me a long time to figure it out.

Good luck, nice job over all though,

Icarus

PS Also consider a boroscope through the plug hole. Have you pulled the plug and looked? Other thoughts WAG might be rocker shafts?

bstratton
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No luck yet

Tonight I swapped my valve trains left to right - including push rods. Also inspected it all carefully to see if I missed anything when I put it together. Just wanted to see if I could move the problem. Easy enough to do. No change at all. that eliminates rocker shafts, etc.

Next step is to pull the right cylinder and see what I find there. I'll check the tappets. I will pull the piston too. I'll check piston skirt to cylinder clearance because I don't have the tools to accurately check bore dimensions. If anything looks amiss I'll take the set up to my shop and have them check it out. If anything they did is off I'm confident they will stand behind their work. Wrist pin bushings are on the list, too.

Probably be a couple days before I can report back. Life gets in the way. Red Sox being in the world series is cause for lots of parties far too late into the evenings.

I'd rather get the R50 running. The 9 miles I put on it the other day was quite a tease!

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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