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bstratton
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Here's an example

Nice looking bobber

  • vintage-bmw-motorcycle-1-625x417.jpg
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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 260
seat and shocks

I can't wait to see how the green color turns out. One of my favorite colors.

In regards to the seat ... one option is a seat "cover" that can be taken on and off. I have one thats vinyl (cheap) that includes a foam pad for comfort but I guess you can have a leather one made as well. Just a thought.

EDit: After seeing the bobber photo that seat and tank pads are beautiful. Scratch the cover suggestion.

Thumbs up on the new shock inserts. You will love the ride.

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wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
Posts: 371
Paint

Go for it
Once it has been decided not to keep the original paint its is your Bike and you can paint it any color you like
If sold it is not original paint then the new owner can paint any color they may like and maybe bring it back to Black

My R51/3 is not the original paint but I really like the color
When and if I do repaint my bike It will most likely be a similar blue color

Tommy
Tried to load pic's but not working at this time new server bump?

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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Quote: Tried to load pic's

Quote:

Tried to load pic's but not working at this time new server bump?

Hmmm...others seem to be able to upload pics. Thinking

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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attachments

I have never had a problem adding pic
Will restart my pc and try again later

Tommy

Please Delete
Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

bstratton
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headlight mounted mirrors

I like the look and will probably install them. My bike came with the single handlebar mounted mirror that sits up high on the left side, which probably is more practical but looks a little goofy. Are they really as useless as I have read?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6586
I have always been riding

I have always been riding motorcycles with two mirrors, left and right. When I first got my R69S, I decided to remove the two handlebar mounted mirrors and go with the single left-side mirror screwed into the spot on the perch. I kept looking over to the right for my other mirror...freaked me out. So I went back to two mirrors.

I have headlight mounted mirrors on my R25/2...I kind of like them. Since the R25/2 is a moving roadblock, I'm driving more out of the rear mirrors than up front. I find them at least useful and will stay with them.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Painting wheels

Finally got to my wheels. Got them all apart this weekend and cleaned up except the rims. That is next. Hoping they will clean up to where I can paint them. Which raises the question: Would I paint the inside (under the tube) the same as the outside? There are tiny serrations on the inside of the shoulders that look functional. Like they help keep the tire from slipping on the rim and I would think that the paint would fill them. My rims are chromed steel and pretty rusty. The chrome is everywhere including inside. When I blast the rims I am sure that chrome will all disappear. There is some corrosion on the inside as well. I am sure I need to apply some sort of protective coating but not sure how to approach that unless I just paint it all.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Speedo Rebuild

My speedometer is a little rough looking. I don't know if it works. I can polish up the decorative chrome ring and the gless cleans up pretty well but the gasket inside (was probably once white) that goes around the edge of the face is grungy and moldy.

I suspect I will be sending this out for a rebuild. I have searched this forum and found a few sources. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Also maybe a rough guess on cost and lead time.

Thanks in advance

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

MikeL46
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VBMWMO #9300
Joined: 01/01/2016
Posts: 60
Headlight mirrors

With low bars the headlight mirrors are great. Maybe the best mirrors I've had on a motorcycle. Can't say how they might work with higher US style bars.

Mike

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67 R50/2 w/R100 engine/trans and Ural Sidecar
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar

Daves79x
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As of Now

As of now, the go-to guy seems to be Joe's Speedometer in CA. He was N. Hollywood's guy for some time and still may be who they send the /2 stuff to. You can deal directly with him. He has my Viegel right now.

Dave

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Dave

bstratton
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Thanks Dave

Joes was also recommended by Vech. My speedo is on the way. He quoted me $235 - Very reasonable. I contacted others (Bobs) that did not specialize in VDO and was given numbers in the $400 to $600 range. Spoke to Joe (not sure that is his real name) seems like a very nice guy. I did find out that Repros set up for MPH and with trip odometers are not available. You guys probably already knew that.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Status update

Got my top end back from the shop (Max BMW in Northampton, NH). They have a shiny new machine shop there. Took a long time to turn around but the work looks very good. Hoping to get it together this weekend and put it aside. Transmission and final drive are clean and ready to re-install. I did not tear them down as I did not see any reason to. No leaks or any other obvious problems. Gave up on rims - too rusty. New aluminum rims on the way, wheel hubs all cleaned up. New wheel bearings. New spokes - ready to lace them up and true them. The wheel bearing adjustment shims and spacer from Cycle Works worked very nicely. Also got the swing arm bearings (front and rear) out. Again, the tool from Cycle Works was very effective. Same with removing he drive shaft coupling. Both swing arms are ready for blasting.

Tins next. I have body work to do on front fender. The back side of the fender has been damaged and crudely repaired in the past. I think I can straighten it all out with some patience and luck. I understand the fundamentals of working sheet metal but don't have the experience to be confident. I do have an old pro available to provide guidance but I want to do this myself. The rolled lip at the back will be a challenge. The rest of the tins look pretty good but won't know for sure until the paint is all off. Headlight bucket has been replaced with one that was once green. They painted it black without removing the ignition cover. Over-spray inside the bucket is also green. Luckily it is in great shape. I rubbed through the black in a few other places (tank, rear fender and frame). The rest of the bike has been black from the beginning . Front fender damage and new headlight bucket suggests a crash at some point in the life of the bike so I'll need to examine the frame and fork carefully. I'll put up a few before and after pics so you can rate my body work and paint.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Frame question

Got the frame blasted. All looks very good but noticed one of my rear foot-peg mounts was brazed on. The joint looks fine. My question is should I grind it off and weld it? Or is a brass joint OK for that purpose? I would post a pic but having trouble with that function.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Captonzap
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If there are no cracks, leave

If there are no cracks, leave it alone.
The problem with trying to weld over a brazed joint is that the brass has permeated the steel, and if you want a sound weld, you have to grind out ALL the brass, or else the brass will contaminate the weld steel.
There are numerous bikes and cars with brazed joints in the primary structure. Granted, the filler metal is usually silicon bronze, which is stronger than brass, but a properly done quality brass joint is usually strong enough for its designed application. The trick is to have a lot of surface area that the brass can adhere to, and thick fillets at the edges.

CZ

bstratton
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Update

Been a while. Had some other things (life) distract me from this project for a while but finally made progress. Frame is painted and ready to be re-assembled. Motor has been completely restored - New slingers, bearing and seals, statically timed, valves adjusted, electrics cleaned, points replaced and gapped, transmission cleaned, rear drive cleaned, all wheel bearings replaces, hubs cleaned, new stainless spokes and aluminum rims, new Metzler tires, new Pagusa seat, new exhaust (complete), new headlight mounted mirrors, new low handlebars, new valve covers, crash bar, headlight trim ring, many new nuts, bolts, caps, etc...

Just need to paint the tins and some other insundry parts, rebuild carbs, then put her all back together. And maybe find a new retirement plan.

Still can't post pics so I'll put them out in the cloud and post a link - later.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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crack in both headlight bucket mounts

Very close to finishing the prime coat on all my tins and a second top coat on the frame. I found a little crack on both headlight bucket ears from the upper edge down to the knurled bolt hole. Is that "normal" for these bikes of this age? I don't have a tig or mig welder - just an old school arc welder so I think I will just braze them (on the inside, of course). I do have oxy-acetylene torches. Any suggestions for a better remedy?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Horn

So I did end up brazing my headlight bucket mounts (ears). Seems to have worked nicely.

I finally got both my wheels done - new bearings and seals - new spokes, rims, tubes and tires. Oh, and new hubcaps. What a PITA it was putting those tires on! Felt like I was going to bend the rims. Metzler Block Cs.

Getting to the real details, now. It looks like my horn is original. It can come apart by taking a few screws out that attach the front to the back.. One of my electrical connectors is broken. The stud broke when i tried to take the retaining nut off to remove the wires. In the experience of this group is that something worth repairing (assuming it works)? I can't find any internal parts for it so my guess is that i will have to fabricate a new wiring stud? If I do get it working I will probably have to paint it. The rest of the bike looks too good.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Steering tension adjuster

The bike is finally coming together. I am assembling the frame. I would like to re-chrome the long steering adjuster screw (with the star shaped top). There are two balls on the bottom of the star shaped part that are spring loaded. I'm sure they are meant to work as detents. On mine one of them looks like the spring is broken or missing. It moves freely inside it's hole. I don't see anything about this in the Barrington bible.

Has anyone ever removed them? If so, how would I go about it? The fisch doesn't show a clip or anything but there must be something there I am not seeing...

Thanks in advance....

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Never mind

Before you think I lost my marbles - I found the subject covered on page 410 of the Barrington book. Of course

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Project Update

Tank and fenders painted, polished and off to the pin striper in Amesbury on Saturday past. I did all the body work and painting myself so even though it isn't "concourse quality" I am very happy with the end result. The front fender was pretty mashed at the bottom of the rear part and had been crudely repaired so I did the best I could but any close inspection will show some wavy parts.

All my sub-assemblies are built and ready for installation so building this bike should go pretty quickly. This is my favorite part of the process. All the hard work starts to show as it begins to take the shape of a motorcycle again.

Went to a small show in Mansfield, MA yesterday. Brought my '71. It was hosted by the VJMC so not a lot of German Bikes but there was a very nice R27 survivor there. It didn't dawn on me to ask the owner if he was part of this community. He did know my pin striper.

Expecting my tins back in a week or so. Unless I bump into a real problem, I may have a bike to test drive in a couple weeks. Maybe sooner. Very exciting! I still can't attach pics so I have a few links here. They seem to work OK.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11r8doMCxzV51iE2m8AWD70Vt9DNoxJN3/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-FaPYF2wMAJBlJJyBpJQflHK1WYHlzm/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14MSIOdKaodgpsFwg1roNnI_nglqKwxdK/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RoGf82zZVnAknbRt_cAsgOcMB5KSbb_S/view?u...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1onIlW9ToJlSy8xRg3uSmG-E6kvBdFqR2/view?u...

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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pin stripe pics

Gotta love the work he does. Reasonable, too

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gXAuIL5guZl5nxmBgd_LXDvargk8QEXo

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 260
Progress

bstratton wrote:

Gotta love the work he does. Reasonable, too

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gXAuIL5guZl5nxmBgd_LXDvargk8QEXo

Its all coming together. Great job. Its actually my favorite part of restoration ..... putting all the new parts back together and on the bike.
Now watch it grow. Smile

It brings back memories.

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bstratton
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Front shocks

Frame is together and wheels are on. Finally looking like a motorcycle again.

As I was moving it around (very limited space in my basement shop) I noticed as I rolled it over a threshold, the front shocks are feeling like the inserts are not working - at all.

If I exercise them by putting my weight on them enough to compress them a couple inches or so, they expand very quickly to the limit of their movement and "bang" to a stop. I would have expected them to act like any other hydraulic insert and dampen the return a bit. I did it a bunch of times to get the fluid moving and account for sitting in a horizontal position for so long but no change

Shock inserts are new.

Am I to be concerned here? There is no motor or transmission or anything but swing-arms and wheels on the bike so the front springs are not compressed at all. The rear shocks, although much less "throw" do seem to work as expected - also new inserts.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
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VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 313
Don't Worry

Once you get the weight of the engine and all in the bike, it will be fine. Be aware, however, the new shocks will likely be somewhat stiffer than the nice, compliant originals (when they were new).

Dave

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Dave

bstratton
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Thanks Dave

I will relax a bit now. I was contemplating the thought of disassembling those shocks again. It wasn't fun the first time. I fabricated a tool similar to what Cycle Works sells and it works fine but it is very hard to avoid damaging the paint on the (newly painted) upper shrouds. Motor and transmission will go in this weekend.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

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