117 replies [Last post]
schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
The rotor extraction tool is

The rotor extraction tool is not part of the many in one tool. I've read on another forum that Dan at Cycleworks has had some setbacks. He's had to move the business a few times. He's had to go back to working a 9-5 job. Plus he's a one man show. So getting things from him might take some time.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
I'm sorry to hear that. Good

I'm sorry to hear that. Good to know, though. I'll talk to my local MaxBMW and see if they have the tool. Not much else I can do at the front of the motor with the rotor stuck in there... Heads, barrels and pistons come out next. I'll have the guys at the machine shop measure and inspect everything and do a valve job (at least). REALLY hoping they can salvage my right head with some fancy welding but wouldn't be surprised if I need to go find a replacement head.

Then time to dig into the crankcase. Glad I'm not in a rush. That looks like it could be a bit of a challenge.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Tires

Just spent some time looking at things other than the motor. Rims and spokes are very rusty - chrome is flaking off the rims - but the tires look amazingly good. They are Metzlers. tread looks like new. There is no sign of dry rot or cracking on sidewalls or anything bad - almost like they were replaced just before the bike was put up for it's long nap in the garage. I'll be taking them off the rims soon. It is hard to believe that tires that old could be road worthy but man I hate to just toss them if they are. Other than a visual inspection and without any documented evidence of age is there any other way to determine if these tires are safe?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
Look at the date code. It

Look at the date code. It should be a four digit number, the first two would be the week of the year and the second two would be the year. I'd be leery of anything older than say 6-7 years.

Metzler's tech data says that a supplier can have tires that are between 18 months and 5 years old. Not sure, but my guess is they have to turn them back or destroy them if not sold within 5 years. But Metzler also suggests ways for dealers to store the tires (temperature, placement, etc.) so I guess even if a tire is sold that is 5 years old, it must have some life left. I'm just guessing...

But still, I'd not put much faith in a tire that was old and I didn't know much about how it had been used/stored.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Update - Motor work

Finally got some time to spend on the motor this weekend. With some help from a friend, Heads, barrels, pistons are off and bagged for the trip to the machine shop. Got a replacement right head, too. I'll still see if they can repair the original but if the money is steep, I'll probably just use the replacement. Got the flywheel and clutch out. Got the front gear housing off. No sign of any seals leaking. So we are down to the case and bearing carriers. I have to say the motor looks remarkably clean and in very good shape. Cylinder walls are smooth. Pistons are, too and very little carbon deposits on top. There is no excessive play on the connecting rods or wrist pins. The crank and cam shaft and all the gears look great. I saw some marks on one of the lifters where it rides on the cam lobes but doesn't look like wear marks. More like very small pits. Oil was very clean - like it was recently changed (30 years ago). everything turns nice and smoothly.

i am honestly hesitant to tear into the motor case. I wish there was a way at this point to inspect the slingers. My fear is that I'll go through the process and associated risks to pull the crank and cam and find nice clean slingers. There is no way I will be able to reassemble that case as well as the folks did in the factory. I am very tempted to get the top end done and put it all back together...

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
There's nothing like peace of

There's nothing like peace of mind know that the motor is completely checked out. You will have to do the slingers at some point...you're right there now. I felt I was not competent enough to do the bottom end, so I had a good /2 mechanic do that part for me. Now I know that the engine will not need (hopefully) any major work during my lifetime/ownership.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Lower end

I just read through the Barrington Motor Works book section on the lower end disassembly and reassembly. I am either brave enough or stupid enough to give this a go. I'll get all the bearings and seals ordered. I'll hold off on new slingers until I see the old ones. I will replace the clutch disk and pressure plate even though it really doesn't need it. It would be nice to have the motor all done and ready to install before I start work on the frame and prep everything for paint.

Need to replace spokes and possibly rims front and rear. Front brakes look new.

Rear drive and transmission will be cleaned and re-installed as is.

Thinking about stainless nut and bolt kit(s). Expensive but look nice.

New exhaust - new bushings - new rubbers - new handlebar - hopefully clean and chrome risers - new cables

Just hope my wallet can keep up. $$$$

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Tires

Both tires are Metzeler Perfect ME 77 identical sizes 4.00-18.64H TL

Made in Brazil

Both say "rear tire rotation"

According to the Metzeler site those are both rear tires. Is that something people do..

Date code as far as I can tell is (1432) parenthesis included. There is no other 4 digit number anywhere on either tire. According to their site and what I have seen on this thread, those tires were made on the 14th week of 1932 - which of course makes no sense. It would make more sense to be 32nd week of 2014. I'll check with the PO to see if that jibes with her recollection.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
A 4.00x18 tire should not be

A 4.00x18 tire should not be used on the front. When I've used a rear tire mounted on the front, I've usually reversed the direction of the arrow. Braking are the forces on the front tire, so that's the reason for the reversal.

I just recently had an issue with a bad IRC front tire on my R69S. I went with a Metzler Block C...no arrow show on the sidewall...can be used front or rear.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Shop press

Gents,

It looks like I will need a shop press to facilitate some of the work on the motor I have planned. There is very little detail about the shop press in the Barrington book. Assuming that I am only pressing bearings in or out I am assuming that a bench mounted press - say 6-ton would do the job easily.

Or do I need a floor press?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
Press

You can buy a 20-ton press from Harbor Freight for like $160, if you catch a sale, which is pretty often. I bought one just for this purpose. Get one, you will use it a LOT working on these things. It's not a precision-built unit for professional or everyday use, but it will do everything you need for these bikes.

Like you, I studied the Barrington book for hours and hours before doing my R50 and it certainly paid dividends. Just follow their procedures to the letter and you'll be OK. You'll need a good propane or MAPP torch, a hotplate, and permission to use your wife's oven. Don't try to disassemble/assemble the engine without these things - there are no shortcuts.

Dave

__________________

Dave

wa1nca
wa1nca's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
Posts: 346
Press

You don't need a shop press to remove and install the bearings on the crankshaft

Removal and installing the camshaft gear to replace the front cam bearing is difficult
I brought my camshaft to a shop and they changed the front bearing and pressed the cam gear back on for me
Charge was $20.00

If your crank needs a rebuild it is best to send this out for repair

Tommy

__________________

Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Press and Tires

Thanks, Tommy

I do want to replace the cam and crank bearings. I don't do this kind of work for a living or even a side job. It is a hobby but I am on my second restoration and wouldn't be surprised to find myself involved in another after this. It is a very satisfying endeavor. I have had other uses for a shop press so I think I'll just bite the bullet and go get one. The right tools always makes things easier.

Don't expect to find any issues with the crank. The connecting rod big end bearings are nice and tight. No play at all.

Just discovered that date codes were not required before 2000. I think that what I thought was a date code isn't. 1432 makes no sense at all. The PO was in an assisted living facility in 2014. The bike had been put up long before that. I suspect that these tires are older than 18 years. So into the recycle bin they will go.....

Any suggestions on new tires? Does anyone know what brand BMW would have installed on the bike when delivered in 1965?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Crash bar

I don't have protection (or crash) bars on the bike and would like to install some. I have seen single piece and 2-piece bars available. The single piece bars are far more expensive (approx. double). I believe they are also more like the originals that would have come with the bike but just can't find a lot of information about that.

Were those factory options or something the dealer would have sourced and installed?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
I'm not totally certain, but

I'm not totally certain, but I think safety bars were generally aftermarket products. Flanders was a big supplier in the /2 era:

http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/flanders/page9.jpg

I think, though, that later on the '80s-on Airheads had dealer options for case guards.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
skychs's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 250
Bars

I have a set of wrap around engine guards for my 60/2. One side is like new. The other side is bent and missing the 2 U clamps to attach it to the frame. If anyone has a lead on finding the one side and/or U clamps please let me know. If not Im willing to part with my set.

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Motor work Update

Barrels, pistons and heads are at the shop. The exhaust flange repair is around $200. I bought a replacement head for $150 that appears to be in good shape so I'll use that. Head overhaul and barrel and piston evaluation to follow.

Got the lower end mostly disassembled. So far no issues. Still need to remove rear crank bearing carrier, the rear main bearing from the crank, the cam timing gear and get the front crank bearing out of the front bearing carrier (lots of shop press tasks - so off to pick up a shop press). Front slinger was pretty full. Started cleaning it. I think that will work out fine with some patience and perseverance (and chemicals). Case is empty now with the exception of the rear main bearing carrier and scatter plate. Nothing surprising or concerning.

Picked up all new bearings and gasket-seal kit. Someone said the parts for this bike would cost more than the parts for the slash 5. That's no joke!

Motor machine work and parts alone looking to top $1400 without including the clutch or any tools or books

I am planning on using the same single stage urethane paint I used on my '71. It is a Chrysler Black. I was very happy with the finish I was able to put down and the color is a nice rich black. The cylinders, however will need heat resistant paint I assume. Any suggestions from those who have done it would be appreciated. Or is is as simple as using a gloss black Rustoleum engine primer and paint.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
wheel hubs

I feel incredibly silly asking this question but will anyway...

I took my front brake caliper carrier off the front hub to inspect it and when I went to put it back I realized I can find no difference between the front and rear wheel hubs. They both have the splined drive dog used on the rear wheel and I can find no other difference.

It is obvious which one was rear due to the grease in the drive dog but are they really interchangeable. Now I want to check my '71.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
If the tires are the same

If the tires are the same front and rear, the tires can be easily swapped front to rear.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Update - lower end

My good friend and fellow vintage BMW owner stopped by yesterday and helped me put the lower end back together. I cleaned everything as described in the Restoration book from Benchmark. Quite a bit of work if you do it correctly. Very happy with how clean the motor case and all the internal components got with a lot of elbow grease. Used just kerosene and finished with a bath in soapy water. Lots of wire brushes and scotchbrite helped get the surface rust off the crank and cam.

Used the benchmark book for guidance and the many-in-one tool instructions. Motor really didn't stink up the kitchen much at all. We have a hood vented outdoors and that helped. I put the front crank bearing carrier in the oven, too. Between that and the hot plate I picked up at Walmart we had all we needed to keep the motor hot. Also got the (prepared) crank and rear bearing carrier nice and cold in the freezer. Really helped make things easier!

A couple notes for those who anticipate doing this: Prep everything completely before taking the motor case and crank out (of the oven and freezer) to work on. Get everything organized and read the book through the process a couple times. The hot plate helps keep the motor case hot but the cranks heats up quickly. There is absolutely no clearance when the rear bearing is on the crank. There is one way and one way only to get it into the case. Follow the description in the book exactly and you will be fine. I got my motor case to 350 degrees (F). That is a little too hot for just leather work gloves. You need oven mitts. It is very helpful to have an extra set of hands to steady the motor case and help direct the connecting rods into their respective openings. Hit the rear bearing carrier with a good heat gun or torch to heat it up after you get it in the motor case before you attempt to install the crank. Triple check that you have the correct spacers in the correct places facing the correct way. The crank heated up a bit before we got to the front main bearing carrier so getting that onto the crank nose took some persuasion. I used the shop press to get the bearing into the carrier. The many in one tool worked nicely to pull it onto the crank. I cleaned my front slinger and replaced my rear but used new screws for both.

My clearances look pretty good. The rods seem to be centered in the cylinder openings. Everything turns smoothly. Next step is the cam and the bearing cover, all the seals, flywheel and clutch. Should be ready for the top end when it all comes back from the shop.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

The Plunger
The Plunger's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #8356
Joined: 09/03/2012
Posts: 194
Zoinks! I’m sure glad all

Zoinks! I’m sure glad all that was already done on my two, my R67/2 would still be a pile of parts. As for the cylinders, some people use high temp powder coat, most use high temp primer and high temp SATIN black paint.

__________________

Brian
'52 R67/2, '53 R51/3

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Flywheel question

I have completed the assembly of the motor case with the exception of installing the flywheel. I was thinking about having it resurfaced. I have read a few things about "lightening" the flywheel.

Other than perhaps smoother shifting, is there any real benefit to doing that? Anyone here with any experience doing it?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Paint suggestions

Regarding the items that are mounted to the lower frame like foot pegs. shifter, brake pedal, sidestand. etc.

I will be painting myself and powder coating is not in the cards. Some of these things need to be black - satin or gloss or does it matter?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
Re: Flywheel

Can't address the lightening issue, but can the flywheel run-out. You need a dial indicator and set-up for getting the flywheel as true as you can. The Barrington book explains it far better than I can. I worked for a day and a half and still couldn't get mine close, then discovered the taper was bad on the flywheel. Got a different one and got it on the second try. I think there is a thread about that here somewhere. If you want a smooth engine, that has to be part of it.

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Thanks, Dave. I am installing

Thanks, Dave.

I am installing the original flywheel onto the original crank with no modifications to either so I am hoping it will sit like it did before. I will definitely get the dial indicator and check it as per the "book".

Burt

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
I Should Be Clear

I should have been clearer - my first try with fitting the flywheel WAS with the original one. I'm suspecting it was never quite right. It had not spun on the crank, it was just not cut right. A good replacement came right into spec.

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
OK - Good to know. I am now

OK - Good to know. I am now less confident in my flywheel fitment. I did read the Barrington book last night. I don't have a dial indicator so I'll go get one. What did you use to secure it to the motor case if you don't mind me asking?

Is it good practice to always replace the pressure plate when replacing the clutch disk as it is in automotive applications?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
I Replaced

I replaced the pressure plate also but mine was junk. I have a pretty powerful magnetic mount to hold my dial indicator. I stick it to my steel engine stand. Doesn't work too well on the aluminum block though! You also need an aluminum or steel block with holes in it to pre-load the flywheel as shown in the Barrington book.

Dave

__________________

Dave

The Plunger
The Plunger's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #8356
Joined: 09/03/2012
Posts: 194
Pegs, brake pedal should be

Pegs, brake pedal should be satin, center stand is gloss. A lightened flywheel will provide quicker acceleration and decceleration and to a lesser degree, less side thrust.

__________________

Brian
'52 R67/2, '53 R51/3

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Yeah. Magnetic mount won't

Yeah. Magnetic mount won't work for me. My motor is on my bench - no stand. I'll figure something out. Maybe lay a piece of steel stock across the edges of the bell housing and use that for the magnet.

Thanks for the paint guidance, Brian

Just heard from my machine shop. .0037 to .0045 piston-to-cylinder clearance. Looks like I need to bore one-over and get new pistons. Didn't want to hear that. After all the lower end work I did it is the only way to go. That way I know my motor is done right top to bottom.

My odometer shows 7400 miles. That is beginning to look correct (107,400) miles on this old girl. I guess it was time for a make-over.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Flywheel installed

Run-out measured at a tight .002"

Dial indicator would have been easier but feeler gauges worked fine. Securing the motor when I got to the final torque setting was an adventure. Very happy with the results, though. I never had to hold back any part of the flywheel. I started at 50lbs, not 25. Run-out was .003" - went to 100lbs and it trued up to .002" and didn't change from there. If only I could get my rims that true!

Now time to evaluate the clutch parts and get that all together. Then I can take a closer look at the tranny and final drive.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
Perfect!

Looks like you're good there.

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Did you ever sell your /2?

Just wondering how that was going.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Clutch

Managed to save the pressure ring and pressure plate. LOTS of scrubbing with wire brush/wheel and then scotch-brite and wet sand paper (400) got almost all of the rust staining out. A few very small spots that go a little deeper than I wanted to go but with a new disk plate it'll be fine. I am trying my best to keep as much of the original parts in use as possible. With the exception of a set of points and a condenser all the electrics will go back. I'll statically time it on the bench.

Time to move the motor over and bring out the transmission - clean it up and check for trouble there.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Paint (or not)

The Plunger wrote:

Pegs, brake pedal should be satin, center stand is gloss. A lightened flywheel will provide quicker acceleration and decceleration and to a lesser degree, less side thrust.

Thanks Brian -

How about the shifter and side-stand?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Clutch installed. The 2 M8

Clutch installed. The 2 M8 bolts in the cycleworks many-in-one tool did a nice job of aligning the plates and compressing the diaphragm spring. A few washers under the heads of the bolts got the assembly close enough to get the clutch screws installed. I did use Starubags NBU30 lube on the spring and clutch splines.

Electrics next then I'll have to put the motor aside until the top end comes back from the shop. Cylinders being bored to .5mm over and new pistons. I hope the rest of the drive train is in reasonable shape. The motor beat my budget up.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Tappets

Anyone have any experience having a pitted tappet ground smooth. One of my tappets is slightly pitted and I'd like to save the $80 on a new one if possible. Funny that only one is pitted. I wonder if that rocker was way out of adjustment for a long time.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
Pitting is probably a result

Pitting is probably a result of having run some poor oil at some point...or maybe it just happens!! The surface of the lifters are treated to be quite hard. I'd be leary of removing any of the surface, unless you can retreat the surface. The last thing you want is for the lifter to continue to flake and/or come apart.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
I'd Replace

I'd replace the lifter. Are the cam lobes clear? This pitting just happens over time to some lifters. Replacement is the only choice, as long as the cam is good.

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Bench Mark Works

Has re-built lifters for $45.00. They are not listed on their parts catalog. Part number is 11 2-32 0 033 127R for the R50/2. It is an exchange so you need to send your original lifter. I trust Vech so I'm doing that. Every little $35.00 adds up. That will get me a set of stainless spokes (almost). Cam lobes thankfully look fine. Cam is back in the motor now.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Shock Eyes

These were apparently originally cad plated. I read in the barrington book that they can be painted with a dull aluminum paint as a "poor mans" cad plating. Any experience / opinions on that? I don't know what cad plating those parts would cost.

I would love to just replace all 4 shock inserts and re-plate or replace the upper and lower front eyes, lower rear eyes and adjusters but the old sock inserts work fine so I could also just buff them up and go get a rattle can and call it done. Big difference in $$$

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
Cad Plating

Cad plating is not particularly expensive, the problem is finding a good plater. I have one in my area and the last batch of cad stuff I had done (a full batch for an R50) was a little over $200. I'm about ready to take another batch in for plating. If you have a few pieces needing done, you can send them to me and I'll just throw them in with mine.

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Thanks, Dave I am putting

Thanks, Dave

I am putting together a full batch for my R50. I appreciate the offer but don't want to impose. I have references for a couple platers in my area. Based on what you paid I am far more inclined to do that than screw around with anything else. Do you do much prep work on the parts you send in for plating (other than cleaning)? As tempting as a set of stainless hardware is, I like the idea of keeping as much of the bike original as possible.

Burt

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

skychs
skychs's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 250
shocks

bstratton wrote:

I would love to just replace all 4 shock inserts and re-plate or replace the upper and lower front eyes, lower rear eyes and adjusters but the old sock inserts work fine so I could also just buff them up and go get a rattle can and call it done. Big difference in $$$

I understand ..... shocks for these old bikes are expensive but I have to be honest, they will make or break the way the bike rides and handles. Even if you can't get them now, put them on the to-do list. I promise it will make a difference.

Daves79x
Daves79x's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 286
The Best Results

Prep is the key - I aluminum-oxide blast the really rusty stuff (hopefully not too much of that), and glass bead the rest. Yes, even all those little nuts and washers. THAT is the hard part and is very tedious, but is the only way to get the results you want. Any old finish on the parts needs completely removed. I spend hours at the blast cabinet.

Now if your plating shop just says to clean the parts and they will take care of stripping them, inquire carefully as to what they do. The cost will go up if they strip/blast the parts.

Only steel and brass (rear brake adjust wing nut and early spoke inserts) will cad plate successfully. Stainless will cad plate if it goes through a pickling process - not practical for this stuff. If you do have a few fasteners you must replace with stainless, bead blast the stainless. It will look almost like cad.

In the end there is nothing like a freshly-done batch of cad! To keep from putting wrench marks on your nice cad bolts and nuts, get a box of small Baggies. Slip a Baggie over the head of the bolt or nut and then your wrench/socket and tighten. No wrench marks. And you can torque them without tearing the Baggie. Replace the Baggie after a few uses. There are very few fasteners you can't do this with when building your bike.

Good luck!

Dave

__________________

Dave

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
original hardware

Dave, good stuff about protecting the newly plated hardware. As luck would have it I have many boxes of baggies on the bench.

I picked up a blast cabinet and glass beads. It does a far better job than anticipated. I will clean all my hardware and put a batch together for the plater. I am glad to be able to keep the hardware that came with the bike as original as possible.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Changing tires on painted Rims

Now that I have pretty much decided on the color - I also have thought about painting my steel (chromed) rims. Most every police green bike I have seen has painted rims and I kind of like that look. My rims are chromed but rusty. If I don't have to remove too much material to get a smooth surface I will be able to use them.

Practical and maybe dumb question: How do we deal with protecting the paint when changing tires? I envision chips all over the edges of the rims. is that the way it goes?

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
schrader7032's picture
 Offline
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6491
They make rim

They make rim protectors...can buy at motorcycle shops. But you could probably make some out of a milk container.

__________________

Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
Shocks

I broke down and bought all new shock inserts. Heat was very helpful in removing the lower mounts from the inserts. The way the bike rides is very important to me. This project is going just as others predicted - I will probably add up the total cost of all the parts I purchased at he end of the job but for now it is purely a labor of love. I don't really want to know yet.

I have also decided to use all my original hardware - as much as possible including nuts/bolts/washers. Labor is free and I have spoken to a plater nearby that was referred to me by my local BMW shop. I have begun polishing the pats that are not too badly damaged. They clean up real nice but not perfect. I'm doing it to retain the integrity of the bike but I believe that will optimize the value of the bike, too.

One regret is I did not bead blast my motor case parts before I reassembled it. It is as clean as I can get it without blasting but not clean enough especially when compared to the covers and things I have blasted. I think what I will do is get the top end installed so the motor is completely assembled and very carefully protect any openings and do the best I can, possibly with just soda to try and clean it up before I install it in the bike.

(Another) lesson learned!

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
bstratton's picture
 Offline
Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 126
seat, knee pads and grips - looking for a different color

So now that I have found a paint color that I like - fir green - I have decided also to look for a new solo seat that is a natural leather or leather color. I want to match that on the knee pads and grips.

I doubt that BMW ever offered those options so I assume I need to go to a custom option. That puts me into very uncharted territory. The seat and pads I could probably find a good upholsterer to re-cover. The grips I think would be trickier.

I know I am going off the reservation a little but c'mon. How nice would a dark green bike look with leather trim. Even soft bags - but let's not get ahead of ourselves here.

Any of you old sages have any experience with this..... Other than to recommend against it.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.