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schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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The rotor extraction tool is

The rotor extraction tool is not part of the many in one tool. I've read on another forum that Dan at Cycleworks has had some setbacks. He's had to move the business a few times. He's had to go back to working a 9-5 job. Plus he's a one man show. So getting things from him might take some time.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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I'm sorry to hear that. Good

I'm sorry to hear that. Good to know, though. I'll talk to my local MaxBMW and see if they have the tool. Not much else I can do at the front of the motor with the rotor stuck in there... Heads, barrels and pistons come out next. I'll have the guys at the machine shop measure and inspect everything and do a valve job (at least). REALLY hoping they can salvage my right head with some fancy welding but wouldn't be surprised if I need to go find a replacement head.

Then time to dig into the crankcase. Glad I'm not in a rush. That looks like it could be a bit of a challenge.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Tires

Just spent some time looking at things other than the motor. Rims and spokes are very rusty - chrome is flaking off the rims - but the tires look amazingly good. They are Metzlers. tread looks like new. There is no sign of dry rot or cracking on sidewalls or anything bad - almost like they were replaced just before the bike was put up for it's long nap in the garage. I'll be taking them off the rims soon. It is hard to believe that tires that old could be road worthy but man I hate to just toss them if they are. Other than a visual inspection and without any documented evidence of age is there any other way to determine if these tires are safe?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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Look at the date code. It

Look at the date code. It should be a four digit number, the first two would be the week of the year and the second two would be the year. I'd be leery of anything older than say 6-7 years.

Metzler's tech data says that a supplier can have tires that are between 18 months and 5 years old. Not sure, but my guess is they have to turn them back or destroy them if not sold within 5 years. But Metzler also suggests ways for dealers to store the tires (temperature, placement, etc.) so I guess even if a tire is sold that is 5 years old, it must have some life left. I'm just guessing...

But still, I'd not put much faith in a tire that was old and I didn't know much about how it had been used/stored.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Update - Motor work

Finally got some time to spend on the motor this weekend. With some help from a friend, Heads, barrels, pistons are off and bagged for the trip to the machine shop. Got a replacement right head, too. I'll still see if they can repair the original but if the money is steep, I'll probably just use the replacement. Got the flywheel and clutch out. Got the front gear housing off. No sign of any seals leaking. So we are down to the case and bearing carriers. I have to say the motor looks remarkably clean and in very good shape. Cylinder walls are smooth. Pistons are, too and very little carbon deposits on top. There is no excessive play on the connecting rods or wrist pins. The crank and cam shaft and all the gears look great. I saw some marks on one of the lifters where it rides on the cam lobes but doesn't look like wear marks. More like very small pits. Oil was very clean - like it was recently changed (30 years ago). everything turns nice and smoothly.

i am honestly hesitant to tear into the motor case. I wish there was a way at this point to inspect the slingers. My fear is that I'll go through the process and associated risks to pull the crank and cam and find nice clean slingers. There is no way I will be able to reassemble that case as well as the folks did in the factory. I am very tempted to get the top end done and put it all back together...

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
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There's nothing like peace of

There's nothing like peace of mind know that the motor is completely checked out. You will have to do the slingers at some point...you're right there now. I felt I was not competent enough to do the bottom end, so I had a good /2 mechanic do that part for me. Now I know that the engine will not need (hopefully) any major work during my lifetime/ownership.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Lower end

I just read through the Barrington Motor Works book section on the lower end disassembly and reassembly. I am either brave enough or stupid enough to give this a go. I'll get all the bearings and seals ordered. I'll hold off on new slingers until I see the old ones. I will replace the clutch disk and pressure plate even though it really doesn't need it. It would be nice to have the motor all done and ready to install before I start work on the frame and prep everything for paint.

Need to replace spokes and possibly rims front and rear. Front brakes look new.

Rear drive and transmission will be cleaned and re-installed as is.

Thinking about stainless nut and bolt kit(s). Expensive but look nice.

New exhaust - new bushings - new rubbers - new handlebar - hopefully clean and chrome risers - new cables

Just hope my wallet can keep up. $$$$

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Tires

Both tires are Metzeler Perfect ME 77 identical sizes 4.00-18.64H TL

Made in Brazil

Both say "rear tire rotation"

According to the Metzeler site those are both rear tires. Is that something people do..

Date code as far as I can tell is (1432) parenthesis included. There is no other 4 digit number anywhere on either tire. According to their site and what I have seen on this thread, those tires were made on the 14th week of 1932 - which of course makes no sense. It would make more sense to be 32nd week of 2014. I'll check with the PO to see if that jibes with her recollection.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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A 4.00x18 tire should not be

A 4.00x18 tire should not be used on the front. When I've used a rear tire mounted on the front, I've usually reversed the direction of the arrow. Braking are the forces on the front tire, so that's the reason for the reversal.

I just recently had an issue with a bad IRC front tire on my R69S. I went with a Metzler Block C...no arrow show on the sidewall...can be used front or rear.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Shop press

Gents,

It looks like I will need a shop press to facilitate some of the work on the motor I have planned. There is very little detail about the shop press in the Barrington book. Assuming that I am only pressing bearings in or out I am assuming that a bench mounted press - say 6-ton would do the job easily.

Or do I need a floor press?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Daves79x
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Press

You can buy a 20-ton press from Harbor Freight for like $160, if you catch a sale, which is pretty often. I bought one just for this purpose. Get one, you will use it a LOT working on these things. It's not a precision-built unit for professional or everyday use, but it will do everything you need for these bikes.

Like you, I studied the Barrington book for hours and hours before doing my R50 and it certainly paid dividends. Just follow their procedures to the letter and you'll be OK. You'll need a good propane or MAPP torch, a hotplate, and permission to use your wife's oven. Don't try to disassemble/assemble the engine without these things - there are no shortcuts.

Dave

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Dave

wa1nca
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Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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Press

You don't need a shop press to remove and install the bearings on the crankshaft

Removal and installing the camshaft gear to replace the front cam bearing is difficult
I brought my camshaft to a shop and they changed the front bearing and pressed the cam gear back on for me
Charge was $20.00

If your crank needs a rebuild it is best to send this out for repair

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

bstratton
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Press and Tires

Thanks, Tommy

I do want to replace the cam and crank bearings. I don't do this kind of work for a living or even a side job. It is a hobby but I am on my second restoration and wouldn't be surprised to find myself involved in another after this. It is a very satisfying endeavor. I have had other uses for a shop press so I think I'll just bite the bullet and go get one. The right tools always makes things easier.

Don't expect to find any issues with the crank. The connecting rod big end bearings are nice and tight. No play at all.

Just discovered that date codes were not required before 2000. I think that what I thought was a date code isn't. 1432 makes no sense at all. The PO was in an assisted living facility in 2014. The bike had been put up long before that. I suspect that these tires are older than 18 years. So into the recycle bin they will go.....

Any suggestions on new tires? Does anyone know what brand BMW would have installed on the bike when delivered in 1965?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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Crash bar

I don't have protection (or crash) bars on the bike and would like to install some. I have seen single piece and 2-piece bars available. The single piece bars are far more expensive (approx. double). I believe they are also more like the originals that would have come with the bike but just can't find a lot of information about that.

Were those factory options or something the dealer would have sourced and installed?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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I'm not totally certain, but

I'm not totally certain, but I think safety bars were generally aftermarket products. Flanders was a big supplier in the /2 era:

http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/flanders/page9.jpg

I think, though, that later on the '80s-on Airheads had dealer options for case guards.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 166
Bars

I have a set of wrap around engine guards for my 60/2. One side is like new. The other side is bent and missing the 2 U clamps to attach it to the frame. If anyone has a lead on finding the one side and/or U clamps please let me know. If not Im willing to part with my set.

bstratton
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Motor work Update

Barrels, pistons and heads are at the shop. The exhaust flange repair is around $200. I bought a replacement head for $150 that appears to be in good shape so I'll use that. Head overhaul and barrel and piston evaluation to follow.

Got the lower end mostly disassembled. So far no issues. Still need to remove rear crank bearing carrier, the rear main bearing from the crank, the cam timing gear and get the front crank bearing out of the front bearing carrier (lots of shop press tasks - so off to pick up a shop press). Front slinger was pretty full. Started cleaning it. I think that will work out fine with some patience and perseverance (and chemicals). Case is empty now with the exception of the rear main bearing carrier and scatter plate. Nothing surprising or concerning.

Picked up all new bearings and gasket-seal kit. Someone said the parts for this bike would cost more than the parts for the slash 5. That's no joke!

Motor machine work and parts alone looking to top $1400 without including the clutch or any tools or books

I am planning on using the same single stage urethane paint I used on my '71. It is a Chrysler Black. I was very happy with the finish I was able to put down and the color is a nice rich black. The cylinders, however will need heat resistant paint I assume. Any suggestions from those who have done it would be appreciated. Or is is as simple as using a gloss black Rustoleum engine primer and paint.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

bstratton
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wheel hubs

I feel incredibly silly asking this question but will anyway...

I took my front brake caliper carrier off the front hub to inspect it and when I went to put it back I realized I can find no difference between the front and rear wheel hubs. They both have the splined drive dog used on the rear wheel and I can find no other difference.

It is obvious which one was rear due to the grease in the drive dog but are they really interchangeable. Now I want to check my '71.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6270
If the tires are the same

If the tires are the same front and rear, the tires can be easily swapped front to rear.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Update - lower end

My good friend and fellow vintage BMW owner stopped by yesterday and helped me put the lower end back together. I cleaned everything as described in the Restoration book from Benchmark. Quite a bit of work if you do it correctly. Very happy with how clean the motor case and all the internal components got with a lot of elbow grease. Used just kerosene and finished with a bath in soapy water. Lots of wire brushes and scotchbrite helped get the surface rust off the crank and cam.

Used the benchmark book for guidance and the many-in-one tool instructions. Motor really didn't stink up the kitchen much at all. We have a hood vented outdoors and that helped. I put the front crank bearing carrier in the oven, too. Between that and the hot plate I picked up at Walmart we had all we needed to keep the motor hot. Also got the (prepared) crank and rear bearing carrier nice and cold in the freezer. Really helped make things easier!

A couple notes for those who anticipate doing this: Prep everything completely before taking the motor case and crank out (of the oven and freezer) to work on. Get everything organized and read the book through the process a couple times. The hot plate helps keep the motor case hot but the cranks heats up quickly. There is absolutely no clearance when the rear bearing is on the crank. There is one way and one way only to get it into the case. Follow the description in the book exactly and you will be fine. I got my motor case to 350 degrees (F). That is a little too hot for just leather work gloves. You need oven mitts. It is very helpful to have an extra set of hands to steady the motor case and help direct the connecting rods into their respective openings. Hit the rear bearing carrier with a good heat gun or torch to heat it up after you get it in the motor case before you attempt to install the crank. Triple check that you have the correct spacers in the correct places facing the correct way. The crank heated up a bit before we got to the front main bearing carrier so getting that onto the crank nose took some persuasion. I used the shop press to get the bearing into the carrier. The many in one tool worked nicely to pull it onto the crank. I cleaned my front slinger and replaced my rear but used new screws for both.

My clearances look pretty good. The rods seem to be centered in the cylinder openings. Everything turns smoothly. Next step is the cam and the bearing cover, all the seals, flywheel and clutch. Should be ready for the top end when it all comes back from the shop.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

The Plunger
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Zoinks! I’m sure glad all

Zoinks! I’m sure glad all that was already done on my two, my R67/2 would still be a pile of parts. As for the cylinders, some people use high temp powder coat, most use high temp primer and high temp SATIN black paint.

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Brian
'52 R67/2, '53 R51/3

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