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skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244

I took a 500+ mile trip on the 60/2 last weekend and had issues with the solo seat. After around 100 miles my arse was done and I had to stop for a break. I love the look of the solo seat but I had to do something. So ..... last week I ordered a padded solo seat cover for the /2. Its black with white pin stripping and there is about an inch of padding. I have not been on a ride yet but it feels much better and I have to admit the white pin stripping is growing on me.

Opinions? Insults? Smile Advise? Its brand new so its not broken in or formed to the seat yet. I expect it will settle in and look better with time and use.

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stagewex
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VBMWMO #8810
Joined: 10/26/2014
Posts: 461
I think it looks good. I

I think it looks good. I found the Solo with or without that pad to be the best looking seat on a /2.

Unfortunately for real riding it was also very uncomfortable for my 6'2" frame. Just too high and forward for me. So switched back to a much lower Corbin for Solo and a U.S. Wide seat for dual riding. That seat is hideous looking but the most comfortable of all.

But if you like that riding position the pad is certainly going to help. White piping looks good too.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
Seat

Thanks for the input. No long rides yet but I did take it out for 10-15 minutes and it seems to be much better. The good news is its easy to install and remove. At 6'2" , 200 lbs Im still wrestling with the best riding position. Right now Im looking at a wider handlebar and/or different risers.

watson
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VBMWMO #9286
Joined: 05/15/2017
Posts: 57
My 69 R60/2 has the higher

My 69 R60/2 has the higher bars that came on many US models. They are easy to identify in that they have a cross bar much like those used on an off road bike. They are higher than your bars and I really like the riding position. It might solve your problem while keeping the bike looking original.

Good luck,

Doc

MikeL46
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VBMWMO #9300
Joined: 01/01/2016
Posts: 53
I've put ~275,000 miles on

I've put ~275,000 miles on BMW's and have a few MOA and RA Long Distance trophies on my wall. I've always found that taking a short break (5 minutes) every hour or so will allow me to go on nearly forever. 500 mile days were routine, 7-800 mile days still tiring.

If I take a break before I get tired/achy, I don't get tired achy. If I wait until I'm uncomfortable I cannot recover. This also worked for my passengers (you don't want them to get cranky). Riding companions finally understood the logic and went with the program - all except my German friend Gert who only wanted to travel at full throttle until the tank was empty.

Mike

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67 R50/2 w/R100 engine/trans and Ural Sidecar
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 244
cover

MikeL46 wrote:

I've put ~275,000 miles on BMW's and have a few MOA and RA Long Distance trophies on my wall. I've always found that taking a short break (5 minutes) every hour or so will allow me to go on nearly forever. 500 mile days were routine, 7-800 mile days still tiring.
If I take a break before I get tired/achy, I don't get tired achy. If I wait until I'm uncomfortable I cannot recover. This also worked for my passengers (you don't want them to get cranky). Riding companions finally understood the logic and went with the program - all except my German friend Gert who only wanted to travel at full throttle until the tank was empty.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I am also a long distant rider (Iron Butt) and have ridden my R1200GS coast to coast twice so Im familiar with the techniques you described. In this case its simply ergonomics. The seat pad is a lot better but I need to find a riding position that fits my butt and 6'2" frame. The first thing Im going to try is wider handlebars. After that who knows.

stagewex
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VBMWMO #8810
Joined: 10/26/2014
Posts: 461
I have a US Model as well and

I have a US Model as well and thus the higher U.S. bars. If the handlebars you have are original I'd try using just risers first. They may not just make you current bars higher but also have a slight forward and backward install option too. And you may get away with not having to change all you control and throttle cables which can get pricy.

My bike had low handlebars when I bought her because the seller liked "the Look". The original US bars came in a box. I changed back for comfort and got the added value of originality. I did have to change the cables... all of them. I added a riser as well.
You have to decide safety (of course) and comfort vs. fashion and look.

Some pix with the low-bars on the first day I saw her/didn't own yet.

With the higher U.S. bars installed.

Close-up or the risers. see the imprint of where the original riser was and the 2 locations (forward or rear) you can use these type risers, forward and rear of the steering friction damper. Just drop a couple rubber plugs into the unused holes if you go to install to the rear ones. Should be able to assume that I have very long arms.
Id try a riser first because you may get away with using your current cabling.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6421
I also thought that the

I also thought that the risers from the R27 could be used as well. They go higher initially before accepting the bars. I'm not 100% of the R27, but it was one of the singles.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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