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Aeroflot1987
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Hello everyone))My name is Alex. I am new to motorcycle field. Just bought 1965 BMW R69S w 11000miles on it. All parts are original, bike has all 3 fin numbers matched, it was never rebuild, as far as I know( just a small touch up paint, oil change , etc)
I got this bike a few months ago. I have no experience with motorcycles at all. I mean I do have an idea the principle how bike works. Never had a bike in my life.
I bought it for $8000 in August 2017. I start it once with the guy who sold me the bike, and that's about it. Than I moved bike from NYC to Pennsylvania.
What you guys think about it base on pictures? Did I overpay? What would be your suggestion "to do first on motorcycle"? Anybody know a good mechanic in Hawley or Scranton in Pennsylvania state?
Thank you for your responses)))

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schrader7032
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Probably did all right with

Probably did all right with the cost. I'd change all fluids and likely you'll need to check the tires. Find the date code and if it's more than say 4-5 years old, change them. If you see sidewall cracking, you will need new rubber. The solo seat has quite a bit of up curve on the nose of the seat. That's probably too much...not sure why, could be that the rubber saddle is sagged. The problem the up turn will cause is that it will put pressure on...well, you know where!!

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

The Plunger
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Nice find at a nice price! As

Nice find at a nice price!

As Kurt said, basics first, then take off that 'orrible Flanders side stand, put on some low euro handlebars and enjoy!

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Brian
'52 R67/2

808Airhead
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Buy yourself a cheap Honda

Buy yourself a cheap Honda Rebel 250,or something like that to learn the basics/physics of motorcycling,you will come to find that these are very antique in their braking/shifting,etc. That is a great bike for the price,but definitely NOT a "learners" bike. You don't want to find out you have poor brakes and ruin all the paint work on that bike if you smash into a car in front of you. If you can,ride it on country roads and READ all the old posts in this forum about starting/maintaining/riding/SHIFTING correctly,etc. These bikes are not easy to get along with at first,and you will either fall madly in love or want to sell it......have fun

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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I have to say keep the

I have to say keep the Flanders stand,I love mine!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Aeroflot1987
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I have both : single and

I have both : single and double seat. By fluids, u mean transmission and engine?

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Aeroflot1987
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It does have both. Side

It does have both. Side stand and heavy duty, middle one(the one look like a fork)

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schrader7032
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Fluids are engine,

Fluids are engine, transmission, driveshaft, and final drive. The transmission, shaft, and final drive take the same grade gear oil. Not ready to start an "oil thread", but you should do some research for the type of oils to use.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

The Plunger
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Boy, you are a rookie! As

Boy, you are a rookie! As said, take it easy, learn on a friends small road bike, take a rider course and wear a flipping helmet! AND HAVE FUN.

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Brian
'52 R67/2

Aeroflot1987
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gas leaking from right carburetor

I just changed hand grips, and fuel hoses.
Few concerns:
1. Started the bike, and realized that right carburetor is leaking pretty hard.
2. White smoke was coming out, my friend told me it does smell like burning oil.
3. There is something wrong with turning signals switch. It does work with delays.
after playing w it a little( pushing up,down few times and pressing on it) it does start working properly. But it's on and off((

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Aeroflot1987
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I got 2 handlebars: low one(I

I got 2 handlebars: low one(I guess it's a sport one) and the one which is on the bike now.

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The Plunger
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Yeah, you need to do a

Yeah,
you need to do a complete carb cleaning, those look nasty. Turn off the fuel, drain the floats, take off the carbs and disassemble them and soak all parts in carb cleaner or put through an ultrasonic cleaner. First order of business is to get a parts manual which shows how this bike is put together. Reproductions are readily available or downloadable for free from "Johns beemer garage", or on bmwbike, below.

Here's a list of links:
http://www.beemergarage.com/ General knowledge site

Parts Suppliers:

http://benchmarkworks.com/ The premiere US supplier of parts, service and knowledge(you've got to know what your looking for though as he has no drawings to order from)
https://www.bmwbike.com/index.php Mark Hugget's shop in Switzerland, great web site to find parts-but pricey.
http://www.meyer-bikes.de/ S.Meyer in Germany, great website and shop with decent prices and fast shipping

There are other's but these should suffice.
Be prepared to pry open your wallet, your in for a big surprise!
Good luck

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Brian
'52 R67/2

Aeroflot1987
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Carburetor

I'm going to take a part.both carbs to clean em. Just received my kit for cabs.
IN what specific solution I should let em sit? And for how long?

Any ideas about that white smoke and smell of burning oil( the one I mentioned before)? Is it because of dirty carbs?

Thank you for your help. I appreciate that)

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The Plunger
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Any commercial carb cleaner

Any commercial carb cleaner will work, or kerosene. Let them soak overnight COMPLETELY disassembled and then with a stiff brush scrub everything off, make sure the holes in the jets are open, your floats are good etc., then wash in soapy water, rinse and blow out every nook and cranny with compressed air. Reassemble with new gaskets and o rings. After installing it's best to put some in-line fuel filters between the petcock and carbs. The petcock may or may not have a filter but use two in-lines anyway. And also clean the petcock as you do the carbs.
As to the smoke, it could be from the carbs or blow-by from the piston rings, but if it truly has only 11k miles, I doubt it. Take out the spark plugs and see if there's oil on them. You could also do a motor and transmission flush to get the old nasty oil out. Also check your compression. The list goes on and on. Get a manual ASAP.

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'52 R67/2

Daves79x
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Wish You Were

Wish you were on the other side of the state. I could help you through all of the stuff the guys described above and show you a bit about how everything works. You really do need to take it very slowly if you are learning all about the bike by yourself. You have a very special bike there and I'm sure you want it to stay that way.

Dave

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R26
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Nice find !

Like others have said here. Nice find but not really the bike to learn how to wrench on. However it's your wallet and it's a hobby after all. . Have fun with it.

Aeroflot1987
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Thank you for you tips on

Thank you for you tips on carb cleaning. U mentioned smthing about checking a compression. Can u give me more details about It?
Thank u.

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Aeroflot1987
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Thank you for support Dave.

Thank you for support Dave. This year , I decide to do a little cleaning and get knowledge how everything works) starting w carbs, than will try to change fluids and check gas tank.
If you have any tips about what to do or check on the bike , I would love to hear it from you.
Thank you

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Aeroflot1987
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Guys.. an other important

My bike is black color. I'm planning to do touch up a little here, there.
What kind of paint should I use?

Guys.. an other important question :
Should I remove tank and clean it and inspect if any corrosion?Is it hard to do? Any tips on That? What kind if solutions should I use?
Or should I just bring the gas tank to professional mechanics and let them to take a look and do repairs or cleaning if necessary ?
Thank u for your time and help again )))
I'm more and more in love with this bike)

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Daves79x
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On A Bike Like This

Couple of things: on a bike such as yours, with service history sketchy, even with the low miles, you should for sure change all the fluids as has been suggested (search here for proper fluids for each system). You should warm all fluids completely before changing (especially for the trans, driveshaft and final drive), but you have to ride it several miles to do that. Can you find someone you trust to do that if you are not yet comfortable doing it?

Anyway, with this, you should drop the oil pan and clean it out. What's there will tell you a lot about the overall health of the engine. You'll need a new gasket and a tube of Permatex Ultra Gray sealant.

Make sure the air filter is still intact and reasonably clean. Check that the air tube rubbers seal well. You do need to completely rebuild the carbs. If you don't feel comfortable doing them, send them to me. I'll rebuild them for just the cost of parts.

Then you need to look into the engine electrics. The points are likely OK, just clean them with unwaxed cardboard and contact cleaner. Get a new condenser. I'd also spring for a new coil, as age is not kind to the original ones. New plugs, wires and spark plug caps will be a good thing too.

You need to learn how to correctly time the engine. It starts with correct magneto timing. Then correctly gapped points. The advancer should be checked for proper function and for any broken/missing springs (there are 3 of them). Extreme care should be taken with removing and re-installing all of these components. Then learn how to statically time the engine. This is critical. Then the running timing needs checked with a timing light to verify the advancer is functioning properly.

If you get all this part done correctly, the bike will start in one kick and be a reliable runner.

For safety, as someone mentioned, get new tires and tubes and check the wheels for loose spokes and true rotation. Wheel bearings should be checked also. While the front end is in the air, check the steering bearings.

These bikes CAN have decent brakes if the front is adjusted correctly, but it's a bit fiddly to get it right.

And yes, do clean out your tank, and petcock. If the original red coating is still inside your tank, it will be an easy job.

If you have reasonable mechanical aptitude, you can learn to do all this. You must, however, get at least the Barrington book and spend a lot of time studying it. It describes in detail how to do all the above. You can't rush it if you are not familiar with these bikes. I spent at least as many hours reading and studying as I did actual work on my R50.

You indeed have a special bike there. I hope it can turn out to be what you eventually hope it to be, but you do have a learning curve both mechanically and riding skill-wise to conquer.

Dave

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When I bought my r60/2 it had

When I bought my r60/2 it had extensive work done on it freshening a lot of the perishables. But the seller had bought a Harley that was his real go-to bike and the r60 was only ridden about 300 miles in 4 years. That's barely 2 tank-fulls.
I put 200 miles on it the first day I owned it and after that ride I noticed quite a bit of tiny debris in the new fuel filters. So yes... flush the tank, pull the petcock and clean it's screen too. And then flush the fuel lines too. Otherwise you are just going to be introducing what you don't know back into your clean carbs.
Once done you can be assured when and what was done to your fuel system and move on to other things.
This is relatively simple to do and a good way to get acquainted with your new steed.

Here's what I found:

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Aeroflot1987
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Already got the book. Can't

Already got the book. Can't wait to get started. I appreciate your help w carbs Dave, but it's time for me to get my hands dirty and start to learn.
What kind of Chemical solution should I use to clean has tank?Any good tips?
Thank you

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Very helpful Stagewex) My

Very helpful Stagewex)
My motorcycle is black color.
I want to do little touch up here and there. What kind of paint should I get? Any specific color? Specific brand?
Thank you for your help

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Aeroflot1987
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Also want to add those babies

Also want to add those babies to fuel lines. Just got them.
Are they good?What u think?

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Daves79x
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How Extensive Is The Touchup?

If you just want to touch over a few nicks and scrapes, I'd just get a half-pint of Rustoleum gloss black. Then take a paper match out of a matchbook and use the torn end for a brush. Works better than you might imagine. Now for actual painting of complete parts, you need rattle-can gloss black for that.

POR 15 makes a product you should get for the tank (and a whole bunch of other stuff) cleaning. Used to be called Marine Clean - they know what you need. Order on their website and get a gallon. Good for carb parts too, but not to soak the bodies in - too caustic for the pot metal. For soaking, get a gallon of Berryman's carb soak. Available many places - Walmart even. Won't hurt any carb parts. Soak for a couple of hours and follow with a toothbrush and very hot water rinse, followed by complete drying with 100 psi of compressed air and a rubber-tipped blow tip.

But follow the manual for disassembly and observe all instructions and cautions.

Dave

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schrader7032
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I prefer these style of

I prefer these style of filters, offered by Vech at Benchmark Works:

http://www.benchmarkworks.com/onlinestore/partno/gas.jpg

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Aeroflot1987
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Schrader

Any specific reason u picked those type of filters?

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schrader7032
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Not really, other than Vech

Not really, other than Vech likes them. I'm guessing that he's comfortable with their ability to flow fuel as well as filter. I'm sure others would work fine.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

miller6997
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I have the same filters...

If you keep your eyes open, you'll come across them in a neighborhood parts store.

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'67 R69S
'13 F800GT

312Icarus
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Be advised that a crappy

Be advised that a crappy touchup paint job may devalue the bike significantly! You might be better off living with the Patina!

Icarus

Aeroflot1987
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But I still got to do smthing about corrosion

But I still got to do smthing about corrosion. Right? My idea was to take off the corrosion and apply a little touch up paint to make sure it wouldn't keep up eating metal.correct me if I'm wrong
Thank you

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You're right

However, paint used to cover up rust is not a long term fix. Go to a big box store's paint department, and buy a jug of KleenStrip Prep and Etch. Use a cotton swab to apply it to the areas of rust that you have sanded smooth. Let it dry overnight, then apply the paint. It converts the rust, and provides an anchor for the paint.

CZ

stagewex
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Don't get or add that

Don't get or add that automotive-type fuel filter you saw advertised on eBay. That has nothing to do with BMW's or any bike for that matter, it is a generic item.
The one suggested that Vech sells is they type you want. Can buy at pretty much any good auto parts store, motorcycle dealer or even a landscapers mower repair shop. MAX BMW has them on their website along with a bunch of other stuff you are going to need anyway. They ship.

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Aeroflot1987
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I finally cleaned both carburators

I cleaned carburators and changed gasket on both of them.
It seems like the problem of flooding my right carb was in needle which was not moving at some point . Don't know y. After cleaning it's all good.
Now I have to put them back and adjust.
Plus I removed tank and cleaned it. Seems like tank was in a good shape.
I changed all fuel hoses.
I got 2 sparks Bosch w260T2

Questions to you guys:
Any good sources w explanation how to adjust carbs?(video maybe?)

What kind of gas should I use?(1965 bmw r69s)
Should I mix gas w oil?
I got Sta Bilizer. How much should I put it in gas tank?
If I'm going to run it once a month for now on.

What kind of oil for engine should I use? Transmission?

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stagewex
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I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing

I use

Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil, 30 weight in the engine.
2.4 Quarts.

Sta-Lube Gear Oil in the gear case, SAE 90 1.7 pints (or 27.05 oz's).

Rear Swingarm SAE 80-90, 7 oz.

Go to Vech's website as to why he recommends the engine and gear oil.

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schrader7032
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Duane has a page on the

Duane has a page on the carbs:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/carb/index.htm

Basically, you want:

1) adjust the idle air mixture to get peak RPM on that cylinder. The screw controls the amount of air so turning the screw CW shuts off air making it richer and turning it CCW allows more air in making it leaner. Once you find the best setting for RPM, I'd make it slightly richer by a small amount, maybe 1/8th turn.

2) you want the idle RPM on each cylinder to be the same. You do this by temporarily shutting off the spark plug to one cylinder and see what speed the running cylinder can keep. The idea is that each cylinder running on it's own should have the same speed. You can use spark plug extensions between the tip of the plug and the inside of the cap to allow a screwdriver to short the spark to ground.

3) you want the throttle cable tension to be the same a normal speeds, says shooting for something just off idle. One way is to see that the throttle pulls each carb slide up at exactly the same time. The other way is to bring the engine RPM up to say 1500 or so and then short out one cylinder to see what the running speed is. Repeat on the other cylinder. If not the same, adjust the cable tension at the knurled adjuster where the cable goes into the carb.

Something that can be useful in setting the carbs up is a set of EMPI gages. Use the search box to find past discussions about these devices.

As for gear oil, Vech recommends not to use high sulfur GL5 oils but rather GL4. Again, read about it on his website.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Aeroflot1987
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Stupid question.

What kind of gas should I use in my 1965bmw R69s?
Should I add oil in gasoline or any other substance or Not?

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schrader7032
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No oil in gas. The R69S is a

No oil in gas. The R69S is a high compression engine...9.5:1. It's going to need ever bit of octane you can give it. I run the highest I can find around here...95 as I recall.

The only thing that you'll need to be aware of is valve seat recession if the valves and seats haven't been converted for no-lead use. Over time, the lack of lead will begin to wear down the valve/seat interface and you'll begin to lose valve clearances. It's a slow process. There may be additives to help with that, but it's always a crap shoot. The only real solution is to have the heads done.

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Aeroflot1987
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Not sure if I got the right spark plugs((

I Just got BOSCH SPARK PLUG
W260T2. 0.7MM
I'M NOT SURE IF IT'S RIGHT SPARK PLUGS for r69s.

Is it the right one or not ?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk...

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schrader7032
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Should be the right plug for

Should be the right plug for a long reach head.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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