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tonyhutchinson
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Durham England
Joined: 08/17/2015
Posts: 98

I am trying to put back together my combined light/ignition switch on my 1958 R50 following it being completely dismantled for re painting.

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence for reassembly. Do fit the chrome top first - then whats next?

thanks Tony

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Tony

312Icarus
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Joined: 07/15/2016
Posts: 275
Never had the chrome off, so

Never had the chrome off, so I would guess that you put the chrome on, then assemble the switch from below. (Not an easy task to keep the balls and the springs together, trying to get it on the steel tangs). Good luck.

Icarus

tonyhutchinson
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Durham England
Joined: 08/17/2015
Posts: 98
ok cheers, with all of those

ok cheers, with all of those bikes out there I guess someone must have rebuilt one

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Tony

808Airhead
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VBMWMO #7677
Joined: 08/05/2009
Posts: 998
Hello,I have rebuilt 2 and if

Hello,I have rebuilt 2 and if can share what I know. Do the chrome first and push the tangs down and if you have to,carefully tap them down with a chopstick or dowel and small hammer.Insert the plastic slider and if your original spring is good I would take a chance using it instead of the aftermarket repro ones. It was probably a fluke, but on my first rebuild I used a reproduction plastic slider spring and I was checking the sliding action and after about 7-10 pulls the spring just cracked and snapped in 2!!
I was very disappointed,however I was very happy that it happened before I installed the board,since you can only replace the spring with the board not installed. That would have been a huge,demoralizing nightmare to have a freshly restored bike with a inoperative key slider,not to mention the work involved to remove the board again and break a tab/tang off!! I can't bear the thought!
The best strategy I figured was to reuse the original,45 year old ignition cover spring,and it has been 6 years and 7K miles and STILL working great! SO really think about this little detail,however obscure.
When I installed the boards,I used a new Noris ones and they are nice quality and reliable. I do want to bring up the ignition key lock "kits" out there come with a nicely made chrome key "tumbler" and the c shaped spring and ball bearings are good quality,but a little "tighter" on grabbing the key than the original,I think the spring is thicker/stronger. I did have one issue with the reproduction key tumbler kits,they come with plastic plunger that fits in the barrel vs. the original brass one,so when I rebuilt my tumbler I used the new tumbler/spring/balls,but reused the brass plunger piece the key pushes on. I did nit think the plastic one was good quality and if it broke or whatever,that would have been another "ignition board out" job.
When you install the board it is tricky,I used the "chopstick trick" and used chopsticks to hold the board against the spring pressure while lining up the tabs and pressing it down. It was 6 years ago I did my last one so it is vague,but I do remember using this trick from the Barrington manual IIRC or Vech.... I made a small tool out of a 1/8" dowel,about 2.5" long with a small groove cut out at one end and the ends slightly tapered which I used to bend the tangs down (they are actually kinda stiff ) and then used a small wooden dowel and SMALL hammer to tap the tangs down.
Make sure your wires ends are soldered well and tighten them well so the vibration doesn't work them loose,don't just stick wire in there.
a good idea is to run a fuse to the "51" wire coming from the battery. Also don't forget to install new bulbs and the install neutral/gen lense BEFORE the board goes in. You can try the original "melting" them in,but I found the repro one I got was different composition plastic and would not melt well,so I glued it and it is fine. Have fun!!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Daves79x
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VBMWMO #9030
Joined: 08/09/2015
Posts: 250
Excellent Explanation, But

Great explanation, but the only exception I make is that you can replace the slider spring without taking the board out. Just release the 2 front tabs on the chrome cover and it will pry up enough to replace the spring. Not particularly easy, but can be done.

Dave

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Dave

tonyhutchinson
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Durham England
Joined: 08/17/2015
Posts: 98
Thanks Guys for all of the

Thanks Guys for all of the above, theres no substitute for experience.

wish me luck Tony

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Tony

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