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Twocams
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I have been trying for 2 days off and on while timing my R69S to find the "F" on the flywheel. Which Joel says is to be in the timing window on flywheel for optimum performance with a timing light. I have had the rotor off 7-8 times trying to get the timing so the "F" will be in the timing hole (window). The bike starts with one kick always did. Just trying to get the timing sorted out. Anyone else have this problem?

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

312Icarus
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Have you marked it with white

Have you marked it with white paint to make it easier to see?

Icarus

Daves79x
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The 'F' Is

The 'F' mark on the flywheel is 39 degrees advanced (BTDC) from the OT mark. As the flywheel rotates the F mark appears first. You need to find that point and clean it and mark it with white paint, as was suggested. The only way you will see the F mark then is with the engine running and the timing light pointed at the window. It should appear at full advance so the engine needs revved to 4000 RPM or so. The electronics of your new set up should place it right on. Can't imagine there's much room for error installing the pulse rotor with the new system, but I've never installed one.

Dave

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Twocams
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Yes I have marked the "F" -

Yes I have marked the "F" - so I may see it if it ever comes by my window. Ill get it sooner or later Im thikin. Just wish it was sooner rather than later. thanks for the input.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

312Icarus
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39 degrees is a long way

39 degrees is a long way 'round. You have to really hammer the RPM to get it to advance that far.
Try making a second mark ~1/2 way and see if you can see it.

Icarus

wa1nca
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Ashfield Ma.
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F mark

Your bike starts well
This is good
At idle you should see the S mark in the window
As you increase the rpm's like Dave says you should see the F mark moving into the window and then stop
If you can not get to the F mark then your timing is not advancing enough as the rpms increases

The 4 switches on the electronic advance unit control the advance curve

As I recall two should be on and the other two should set to off
This setting is very important as they control the initial timing and the advance curve as the rpm's increase

Tommy

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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

wa1nca
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Advance

All engines need at least this advance as you rev your engine, to a higher rpm for max power

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Twocams
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Good Idea about making

Good Idea about making another mark 1/2 way. All switches are set the same. Somewhere in the fine print it say leave them as shipped. I wouldn't know which ones to move where anyway. All good points tho. Yes I can see the S mark, sometimes even the OT.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

wa1nca
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Switch settings

If you go to the tread you started on 7/21 ( 12 volt conversion)
Stagewex sent 4 pic's of his installation
His 4th pic shows his advance switch settings as 2 on and 2 off
Also his and your control box number are the same # 7072 just the build dates are different
I do remember my instuctions also said all the same but came shipped like the one Mike has and Joel told me to keep them as shipped
2 on 2 off
Might want to confirm with Joel
I am sure by now your tank is full of gas and may have to get lifted to change the switch settings

Tommy

  • power_dyno_controll_unit.jpg
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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Daves79x
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Only Thing

The only thing I would be concerned about is advancing too far at full advance. I would want to be absolutely certain it wasn't doing this because these do not tolerate that well. Sounds like you are not getting to full advance, however.

Dave

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Twocams
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OK I see the switches now. So

OK I see the switches now.
So I put an X at about 1/2 between the S & F. It comes into the window at about 2000 RPM. But never goes out of the window at higher RPM.
Just stays in the window until back to idle....then to the S mark.

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

Daves79x
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So

So, you are not advancing to full advance. That really hurts performance, but will not otherwise harm the bike until you get it sorted. Is the S mark in the window at idle?

Dave

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Twocams
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S is in window at idle. I put

S is in window at idle. I put it back together for now. Tired of missing with it. Took a ride and will go 65-70 same as before. Just where I ride it.

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

wa1nca
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Switch settings

You do need to be at F at 2000 or above , or you will not have your best power
Your box is not advancing the spark enough at the higher rpms

I agree the power dyno manual does says all switchs should be off
I did call Joel when I received mine because 1+3 were set on (up) and 2+4 were set down (off) just like stagwex pic shows
He told me to leave them as is ( not all off)
My unit advances goes to F and then stops as rpms go higher

Good news is that you should not have to remove the gas tank
If you disconnect the gas line from your shut off valve, the 2 lower bolts and the front bolt
You should be able to slide the tank backwards enough and then tilt the tank up to get room the rest your switch settings

Then recheck your advance to see that it goes fully to F and stops at the higher rpm
It should never go past the F in the window at high rpms

Tommy

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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Twocams
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SOB those damn dip switches

The switches were all on. Spend 3 days trying to time this bike. If anything they should all be off. Im pissed as a knute never looked at them when I put the ignition on. I did notice they were all the same direction but didnt have my windows on to tell if off or on. Well there ya go, & only spilled about a quart of gas on myself. Funny this new gas dont burn ya like the GOOD OLD stuff. 10% what.....cow dung?

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

wa1nca
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SOB those damn dip switches

Hope this gets it so it advances all the way to F as you increase the rpm's and starts and runs well
Your timing light and test ride should tell
Not sure why Mine and stagwex switches are 2 on 2 off

Tommy

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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Twocams
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Yes its all good Tommy.

Yes its all good Tommy. Starts, stops, S at idle and F as RPM got increased. Turn signals all work even the ones in back now.
Funny thing, it seemed to shift better...no grinding or preload on shifter. Unless now the RPM drops off faster when releasing the throttle & pulling the clutch leaver in? Dont know maybe Im just full of it. These Harbor Freight lifts work well as work tables when the bikes arent using them too.

twocams

  • dsc00007.jpg
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69 R69S 03 K1200GT
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Daves79x
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Glad

Glad to hear it's all well now!

Dave

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wa1nca
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Good point about original advance unit

If the springs are weak or not adjusted or it is a little dirty it would not return to S as fast as it should
making shifting harder until the rpms drop off to near idle

It is good that your lift can be a adjustable workbench when needed

Tommy

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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Daves79x
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Don't Think

Are there any springs in the Power Dynamo ignition?

Dave

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Twocams
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No its all electronic. With

No its all electronic. With wires and plugs. You have 3 moving parts. A silver cam that goes over the end of the cam shaft.Used as a plug. Cam shaft no longer used. The stator bolts to the crank shaft end with the rotor over it and used as the pickup for firing. I like it, I feel more confident I will get there and back home.

twocams

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Twocams
69 R69S 03 K1200GT
92 R100RT

stagewex
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I believe that if I didn't

I believe that if I didn't have PowerDynamo it would have been something I would have upgraded to anyway. The attraction of a more modern system that installs without hacking-up the bike. Being completely reversible is it's overall appeal for a Vintage owner. I'm unsure if that is true for other brands of motorcycles but it is for /2 BMW's.

2 "on" and 2 "off" have been the way it's been since I've owned the bike. Never any problem. But check the bolt/screw-on parts for tightness every so often as they can get loose from vibration. If the generator light flickers a tiny bit while riding it's loose.

Other than that it's a no-brainer system that works.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

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